difficulty of pulling control arms off a mark 8? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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difficulty of pulling control arms off a mark 8?

just curious at the difficulty of doing these

found several sets in the junkyards around here and wondered how long it would take to get them off

ive never messed with the air ride setup before as compared to the standard coil springs

most searches came up empty for what i was looking for

1995 Thunderbird 4.6 40th Anniversary Edition
1994 Thunderbird SC
1984 Corvette 383 Stroker
2008 Chevy Equinox AWD
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-17-2011, 05:29 AM
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Once you deflate the air bags, it's just like on a TBird.

The time will vary depending on the grunge level of the bolts and the tools you have (i.e., a northern car, like you'd see, and few of the proper tools == all day affair, down here with my balljoint splitter and an impact == all EIGHT control arms, all four spindles, and even the diff in under 4 hours ... )

The biggest difference you'll find is, once it's deflated, you're not worried about the spring pressure. I can work the rear bags out without removing the LCAs, for that matter. Can't get the rear springs out that way ...

Now, which control arms are you talking about?

RwP
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-17-2011, 06:42 AM Thread Starter
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the aluminum rear control arm's that swap over to thunderbirds/cougars

and people also always ask for the diff's

1995 Thunderbird 4.6 40th Anniversary Edition
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1984 Corvette 383 Stroker
2008 Chevy Equinox AWD
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-17-2011, 11:52 AM
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If you'd rather not have to pull a set of grungy control arms. I've got a set sitting in my garage complete with the aluminum spring adapters.


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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-17-2011, 09:10 PM
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The BIGGEST problem I've found is finding a wrench to handle the 40mm nut on the front.

I use a pipe wrench (!!) for my take aparts.

I don't really recommend that, though ...

Second note: If it's air-bagged, release the air pressure BEFORE you start removing it (disconnect the air feed connector, the air will hiss right out and it becomes MUCH easier to remove.)

RwP
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-17-2011, 10:50 PM
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The AFDB is on a lil tight.
 
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I use a huge adjustable wrench to handle the 40 mm nut. Its best to jsut take the whole knuckle brake and both crontrl arms. Its just barely light enough to pick up for me anyway and set it on something that rolls. THis way you dont deal with the damn tamper bolts or wrestling the brakes apart on your car. It works like a complete unit this way. Its tricky to jack it up to the car but I did it with just a racing jack. You get the better halfshafts and both the lighter arms and disk brakes all win for the standard LX. Plus once these 2 units are out of the way the aluminum diff is cake to drop. Plus if its a 93 the 1 piece aluminum DS almost comes right out with a little lowering of the tank. DO do these things requires some handy tools the right sockets/breaker bars make it easy. Its easier with 2 people but I only had help on raising during install or dropping during removal. Getting just the LCA is the main reason people go for this mod but those tamper proofs can be impossible to get off in the yard if put in the same direction.

Spinning pies like wheels.

DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-18-2011, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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splattered- i went today to look at a set i dont see the 40mm nuts? i saw 2 21mm bolts for the pivot bolts that secure the arm to the frame

18mm for the shock to arm
the upper arm- spindle bolt
2 lower arm to spindle bolts with the torx bit heads
sway bar link and the airbag

1995 Thunderbird 4.6 40th Anniversary Edition
1994 Thunderbird SC
1984 Corvette 383 Stroker
2008 Chevy Equinox AWD
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-18-2011, 03:50 PM
Kind of slapped together

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Originally Posted by rednsilver94sc View Post
splattered- i went today to look at a set i dont see the 40mm nuts? i saw 2 21mm bolts for the pivot bolts that secure the arm to the frame

18mm for the shock to arm
the upper arm- spindle bolt
2 lower arm to spindle bolts with the torx bit heads
sway bar link and the airbag
Look at the nut on the FRONT side, attached to that bolt on the LCA/frame side.

NOT the one that does the toe adjust.

On the TBirds I've seen in the yard, one side is a more standard nut, the other the 40MM. On the Mark VIIIs, BOTH are the 40MM.

If yours aren't 40MM, then you got lucky

RwP
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-18-2011, 06:44 PM
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The AFDB is on a lil tight.
 
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Did you see the LCA to spindle bolts? If you didnt then you are missing the point of attack the inner control arm bolts. If you find the rear toe links the 40mm nuts are right next them. start looking at pictures on line of the IRS. If you are getting confused and cant mentally picture the IRS then this is a real complicated headache. But with some time spent on knowin what and where everytihg is it simply becomez an exercise in getting dirty. Its not hard but you need to be familiar with the parts. Youll need a huge adjustable wrench and a 22,20,24,19,17,18 mil stuff cant remember all the sizes. But I use a 2 foot breaker bar to get this stuff loose. You dont need super tools just a few.

Spinning pies like wheels.

DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 10:56 PM
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When we did the coil swap on the Mark, the only thing that went wrong when taking off the aluminum arms was that the guy helping me tried to remove one of the LCA to knuckle bolts by using an impact on the torx head and holding the nut instead of holding the torx and turning the nut. He broke one of my favorite torx bits (I think it was a t-50). Ah, we had many good times together up until that day. Other than this, it was fairly straight forward. If you want to deflate the bags really fast, make sure the frame is supported with the tires off the ground and remove the air solenoid from the bag. Luckily his bags were already collapsed when we started this job. Good luck and keep us posted!

-Rob
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