Correct Sway Bar Bushings? - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Uh-Oh, I Think I Ordered The Wrong Sway Bar Bushings!

I got tired of my sway bar bushings squeaking around everytime it got cold here so i got on autozone.com and purchased the "Greaseable" sway bar bushings from energy suspension. Here is a photo below, Just making sure i bought the right part for my 1997 front sway bar.
Part # 9.5169R (1 1/16" sway bar bushing)


---Jeremy

Last edited by N8tiveJuggalo17; 01-21-2012 at 04:45 PM.
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 04:08 PM
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Have photos of the installation process? I guess it also can be installed in certain 1989-1997 models?
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Have photos of the installation process? I guess it also can be installed in certain 1989-1997 models?
No not yet, Its only like 3 here lol..I'll put up with the squeaking until it gets warm. I think the only thing needed to do is to remove the sway bar end links from the sway bar and unbolt the bushings and slide them off, then reverse with new bushings.

---Jeremy
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by N8tiveJuggalo17 View Post
No not yet, Its only like 3 here lol..I'll put up with the squeaking until it gets warm. I think the only thing needed to do is to remove the sway bar end links from the sway bar and unbolt the bushings and slide them off, then reverse with new bushings.
Actually - if you don't mind cutting the old ones, you don't even have to drop the end links.

The new ones are split (the housing will keep them sealed!), and so all you need is to remove the old housing, slide the old rubber down to where you can get to it, cut it, pull it off, put the new poly on, slide it back up, put the new cover on, and lubricate it.

If the four bolts (2 on each side) aren't seized, then it'll be done about as fast as I typed that ...

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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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Actually - if you don't mind cutting the old ones, you don't even have to drop the end links.

The new ones are split (the housing will keep them sealed!), and so all you need is to remove the old housing, slide the old rubber down to where you can get to it, cut it, pull it off, put the new poly on, slide it back up, put the new cover on, and lubricate it.

If the four bolts (2 on each side) aren't seized, then it'll be done about as fast as I typed that ...

RwP
Holy Crap! Look at that!!! Thanks alot ralph. I'll do them this weekend. Would the same grease that i use on ball joints and stuff work?

Those are the correct ones tho right?

---Jeremy
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 10:14 PM
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Before I assumed they were the correct ones, I'd mike the current sway bar (using a caliper tool - I own this one, which does what I need: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-...iper-7914.html ).

For grease - I use the same I use on my ball joints, yes. Then again, I use a moly/lithium blend. YMMV.

If you have some PTFE spray (I use some Teflon spray I bought years ago at Black & Decker, but I've seen it at Home Depot or Lowes recently), I'd hose the swaybar down with that before I put the new ones on, but after I removed the old ones.

It's what I did, anyway.

My 1991 XR7 took the 1 1/16th IIRC also.

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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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If you have some PTFE spray (I use some Teflon spray I bought years ago at Black & Decker, but I've seen it at Home Depot or Lowes recently), I'd hose the swaybar down with that before I put the new ones on, but after I removed the old ones.
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Would somthing like white lithium grease work?

---Jeremy
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 10:56 PM
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Probably. I just said what I'd do

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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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lol, ill go with probably

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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 09:14 AM
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Worth mentioning; these will only work on the front sway bar. The rear brackets are different.

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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 12:33 PM
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Worth mentioning; these will only work on the front sway bar. The rear brackets are different.
yes they are....it is the silver bracket above the springs in this pic.


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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going to change these tomaro morning, Is there any perticular way to do these? Up on a ramp? On jack stands?

---Jeremy
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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueEyes View Post
Worth mentioning; these will only work on the front sway bar. The rear brackets are different.
There are ways to adapt them, DLF makes adapters for them IIRC

-Matt
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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-21-2012, 05:46 AM
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DLF makes adapters for them IIRC
He does, good stuff!

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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-21-2012, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I need help! i went ahead and cut the old bushings off and put on the new ST 1 1/16" bushings and they fit around the bar well but they seem to be not as wide as my old ones.. is this normal? When my old ones were on the bar they were pushed all the way up to the lip on the sway bar and bolted down correctly, but with the new ones when the holes are lines up to be bolted down they were about a 1/4 inch away from the lip on the sway bar. Now when i push my front end up and down they still squeek and i can clearly see the bar rotating....that dont seem normal. Did i order the wrong bushings?!!!!!!

---Jeremy
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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-21-2012, 05:19 PM
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To reassure you -

1) Without the brackets, it's normal for the sway bar to drop some. If you put the brackets that came with them on them, AND you tightened the bolts down properly, they'll fill back in, no problem.

2) They're poly, they squeak. That's why I spray it with Teflon spray (a generic PTFE works, mine just has the DuPont brand in it) before I put them on. Amd why they're lubeable.

3) Think about it - if the bar DIDN'T rotate, how would the lower control arm go up and down? They're SUPPOSED to rotate in the bushings - the anti-sway function comes when one side drops and the other doesn't. Or one goes up and the other doesn't. By rotating in the bushing, it keeps the car ride softer on ridges and other situations where both sides go up and down at the same time.

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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-21-2012, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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To reassure you -

1) Without the brackets, it's normal for the sway bar to drop some. If you put the brackets that came with them on them, AND you tightened the bolts down properly, they'll fill back in, no problem.

2) They're poly, they squeak. That's why I spray it with Teflon spray (a generic PTFE works, mine just has the DuPont brand in it) before I put them on. Amd why they're lubeable.

3) Think about it - if the bar DIDN'T rotate, how would the lower control arm go up and down? They're SUPPOSED to rotate in the bushings - the anti-sway function comes when one side drops and the other doesn't. Or one goes up and the other doesn't. By rotating in the bushing, it keeps the car ride softer on ridges and other situations where both sides go up and down at the same time.

RwP
Yep I used everything that came in the kit beside the washers only becuz there was no washers originally, but should the new oily bushings be smaller width wise then the stock ones? When I pushed the bushings all the way to the lip on the sway bar the holes wouldnt line up so they are about 1/4 to 1/2" away from the lip.

---Jeremy
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-21-2012, 09:12 PM
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Post some pics if you can. The collar on the sway bar on the inside of the bushing is adjustable if that's what you mean by the lip. I can take a picture of mine tomorrow and show you.

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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-21-2012, 10:46 PM
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Yep I used everything that came in the kit beside the washers only becuz there was no washers originally, but should the new oily bushings be smaller width wise then the stock ones? When I pushed the bushings all the way to the lip on the sway bar the holes wouldnt line up so they are about 1/4 to 1/2" away from the lip.
You could just compare the old ones to the new ones -but yes, mine were narrower than the old ones.

Suggestion: The bracket bolts to the frame, it's pretty much stuck. Loosen it up a bit, slide the new bushing to center the bracket, and then tighten it down.

Why are they different widths? Well, rubber is softer than the poly they use, so it takes more width to support the same amount of torsional load.

While it's apart, I'd put the washers in there - remember, the new brackets have oval holes (so they can be slid back and forth to fit better), the old ones had round holes. You should use the washers to make sure the bolt has a full loading zone, instead of being only partially loaded (the washer's size will make sure it's got enough of a loading zone against the bracket.)

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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-21-2012, 11:28 PM
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Post some pics if you can. The collar on the sway bar on the inside of the bushing is adjustable if that's what you mean by the lip. I can take a picture of mine tomorrow and show you.
He has a stock sway bar, not an ADDCO with adjustable collars.

He probably needs to just get Poly bushings that are made for the stock bar and mounts, the ES mounts aren't going to fit properly with a stock bar.

The only other solution is to fabricate some kind of spacers, probably not worth the effort.

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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-21-2012, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, here's the best picture i just took outside. I know, I know the grease is messy but they still squeak like krazy.. When i apply my brakes to make a turn i can hear them squeak, When i go up the incline to my driveway they squeak lol..i stop to park and they squeak! its getting really really annoying. Its sounds like it's mostly on my passenger side..same as my old ones i'm almost guarenteed thats when the sound is comming from tho. Here's the picture and a video below of the sound i'm talking about, The sound is identical with poly and rubber. I should put the washers on huh :-S

Picture:


Video: I'm pushing down on the fender, Making the front go up and down.

---Jeremy
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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-22-2012, 12:32 AM
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You hear quite ugly, I have a similar problem in my case only the screeching does not come from the stabilizer bar.

have pictures of the old parts?
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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-22-2012, 12:35 AM Thread Starter
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Tomaro i could post some of the old bushings.

---Jeremy
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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-22-2012, 08:09 AM
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Try this.

Unbolt both brackets so the anti-sway bar hangs free.

Now bounce the front end down.

Does it still squeak?

If so, it ain't the sway bar.

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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-22-2012, 10:02 AM
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He has a stock sway bar, not an ADDCO with adjustable collars.
Doh! sorry about that, forgot.

Mine squeak at times too and I've had them on for 6 years, it's worse when it's cold out.

I agree with Ralph, give that a try. make sure it's not all the bushings.

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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-22-2012, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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Try this.

Unbolt both brackets so the anti-sway bar hangs free.

Now bounce the front end down.

Does it still squeak?

If so, it ain't the sway bar.

RwP
Ok, Its gonna be getting dark here soon so i'll do it tomaro, that way i could add the washers also lol.

---Jeremy
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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-25-2012, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Bushings Not The Problem But I Think I Know What Is!

Hey, I went out at lunch today and removed all four sway bar bushings bolts and pushed down on the car, It still squeeked. So i started paying more attention to where the sound was comming from...I realized that Its only comming from the passenger side, So i put the washers on the bolts and tightened them all back down and remember that a couple months ago i changed out my eibach springs and replaced them with the J-code sport springs, When we was swapping springs on the front and attatching them to the shock it was hard to get them lined up correctly so when i was installing them on my car the holes at the bottom of the shock were off a little bit from the hole on the LCA, I put the screwdriver in the holes and twisted it far enough and put the bolt through, I am wondering if that could be the problem? Maybe the tension on the spring is rubbing or somthing...i dont know. Any ideas?

---Jeremy
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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-25-2012, 03:46 PM
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Did the squeak stop after putting the bolt back in?

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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-25-2012, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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Did the squeak stop after putting the bolt back in?
Joe
If you are talking about the bushings bolts, It squeeked when it was bolted down and when they were all removed. I honestly believe its comming from where the shock attatches to the LCA, I attatched a picture below of what i am talking about.
(This is not my car, I found this pic online)


---Jeremy
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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-25-2012, 05:14 PM
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I honestly believe its coming from where the shock attaches to the LCA,
That's what I'm asking you. You said in the earlier post that you removed the bolt and turned the shock and put the bolt back in. Does it still squeak?

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