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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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Possible strut rod fix

Considering that I've been able to blow out the Moog strut rod bushings in a couple weekends of racing, and now that I'm switching to R-comps, I don't want to have to replace the dang things every week. I've ordered a set of actual urethane bushings for a '67-72 Mustang. I don't have any pics right now (at work until Monday). But they do look quite similar. Looks like the actual strut rod on the old Mustang is marginally smaller, but very, very close. I'll grab some pics Monday. But maybe, with a little luck this could work.

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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 10:02 PM
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I've been looking into Mustang bushings as well, I wrote down the dimensions of the polys from my friends 69 cougar build(i'll post them if I can find the paper I put them on). Though my plan is to go with the Maier delrins which act as more of a giant helm joint when assembled. Poly will be too stiff to allow the suspension articulate without binding. They usually crack apart after a while or even break the strut rod

-Matt

Last edited by XR7-4.6; 02-04-2012 at 10:13 PM.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 10:48 PM
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Be careful with the Poly bushings....

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...ce-please.html

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 10:58 PM
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^That^

Something needs to flex in the suspension and the stiff bushing moved it to the rod. I suspect it would be more likely the bushing would fail on these cars since our rods are beefier and still rubber bushed at the LCA (vintage mustangs are bolted solid) but it's still a risk.

-Matt
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 11:07 PM
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I tried poly, with the OEM washers flipped, and they didn't last very long, and I don't think it's a good idea. I definitely wouldn't use the flat washers that come in the Poly kits that vendors sell for Thunderbirds.

I've gone back to the OEM bushings, which are still available and pretty cheap, but I've made stainless steel sleeves that are far better than the stock sleeves.

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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 11:14 PM
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These are what I'm looking into: http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCa...ion/mr-srb.htm

Vintage mustang racers seem to love them.

-Matt
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
These are what I'm looking into: http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCa...ion/mr-srb.htm

Vintage mustang racers seem to love them.
I've seen those, and even thought about making some. But I don't auto-x or road race my cars, so I didn't bother.

They do look like very nice pieces, though.

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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 12:08 AM
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My 95 bird had the poly strut rod bushings and didn't break anything in the factory configuration.

) > - < (

However I could see a problem mounting them like this:

( > - < )

Because it would limit the motion and put the stress on the rod instead of the bushings just like that mustang did.

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_Murder View Post
My 95 bird had the poly strut rod bushings and didn't break anything in the factory configuration.

) > - < (

However I could see a problem mounting them like this:

( > - < )

Because it would limit the motion and put the stress on the rod instead of the bushings just like that mustang did.
Chris,

This - ( > - < ) is the factory configuration with the OEM bushings.


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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_Murder View Post
...it would limit the motion and put the stress on the rod instead of the bushings...
I always wondered why the washers were on like that...

I've heard of some of the aftermarket ones pulling thru at the lca, but a broken shaft is a whole different ballgame, lol.


A set of those spherical delrin bushings at both the front support and at the control arm would really improve the operation of the strut rod.

DLF, think that's do-able, or nuts?

There might need to be a rubber layer or two in the front to tackle some of the shock moments...

I wonder if these are one of the parts that Duffy talks about allowing the suspension to deform to match the loads...

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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 11:50 AM
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Anything is "do-able", but why bother? I suppose if I was going through a set of OEM bushings every year, then I'd be motivated. 60-100K miles is plenty durable, if you ask me. The OEM bushings are cheap, still available, and I've replaced the weak link, the sleeves.

People have problems using the aftermarket replacements, at both ends of the strut rod. I'll stick to the OEM parts until I need to come up with better replacements.

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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 02:02 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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I'll stick to the OEM parts until I need to come up with better replacements.
True that.

I'm just looking ahead.

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 03:41 PM
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Yep me too, I'm planning on replacing the factory strut rod bushings this year @ 100k miles. I have my doubts about the OEMs still being around after another 100k 10+ years from now when I'd have to replace them again.

I'm not worried about isolation, there will still be the rubber at the LCA side as well as the main LCA bushing at the K.

-Matt
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 05:34 PM
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Yep me too, I'm planning on replacing the factory strut rod bushings this year @ 100k miles. I have my doubts about the OEMs still being around after another 100k 10+ years from now when I'd have to replace them again.

I'm not worried about isolation, there will still be the rubber at the LCA side as well as the main LCA bushing at the K.
Im all for the future ideas go for it!!!

DLF I do also agree with you but you but I think the bushings themselves wont be around for more than a few more years so Id horde a few sets on top of that, like a lifetiem supply for myself.

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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 05:54 PM
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I don't know your name, but I better not see a show of hoarders where a guy from Arizona has a room FULL of bushings for a MN12.

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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 06:59 PM
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I don't know your name, but I better not see a show of hoarders where a guy from Arizona has a room FULL of bushings for a MN12.
I personally have a set that have a good 70k of life left, maybe more. I cant bring myself to buy anything for it right now because its working fine and isnt going to ever rust either. So n you wont see me on that show, I hate too much clutter drives me nuts. I just went through my rooms and tossed all my bags of piss and feces recently so Im all good.

Spinning pies like wheels.

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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 07:04 PM
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I have a couple of sets tucked away....

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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 10:52 PM
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Be careful with the Poly bushings....
The LF strut rod pulled through the newly installed poly bushing on my car when I was bedding in the brakes. I put on aftermarket rubber ones (which are stiffer than the poly ones) and have had no problems. I have also had a poly diff carrier bushing fail, so I made delrin ones and have had no problems. This experience leads me to believe that rubber or delrin is the only way to go with stock style suspension bushings. That being said, the way the strut rods work on these cars, rubber is the better choice. I'm not sure if delrin would even work. A heim or monoball would be ideal, but that would involve serious work.

-steve
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 10:57 PM
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If you look at the delrins I linked earlier that's basically what they are. It's a 4 piece per side design where the delrin portion forms a ball and the aluminum portion forms a cage when assembled. It articulates exactly like a helmjoint would rather than being just a solid bushing.

-Matt
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-06-2012, 09:51 PM
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That actually looks pretty sweet. Didn't notice it before. As long as the hole size is correct that would be pretty awesome.
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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-07-2012, 12:26 AM
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The hole is close, maybe 1/16" smaller than ours so it will probably need some minor machining but it should work just fine from there. All the other dimensions were right on as I recall the only other thing being that I'm not sure of the K member thickness. I think it's a bit smaller on the MN12 so it might require a large washer on one end to get the spacing right between the halves.

-Matt
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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-07-2012, 09:07 PM
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It looks like it would be difficult to put that back in a lathe. I'm guessing they parted it off as the last operation. Either way, its a cool idea and if I ever take that part of my car apart again I'm gonna try it. I don't want to disassemble that again though.
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-12-2012, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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Bumping back from the dead, after about half the season, the Mustang pieces have been holding up great. They did take boring them out a bit, just a couple hundredths or so. Where before, on "street" tires, I was blowing out the moog ones every couple weeks, this season, with bigger Hoosier slicks, they show no signs of wear. I can't speak for what these would do for normal street use, as I very rarely drive the 'Bird on the road, but throwing the stress of sticky 275/35 Hoosier A6s, with those big Cobra brakes working hard, hasn't seemed to had any real effect.

"WHAT CONE?!?!

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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-12-2012, 02:15 PM
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Bumping back from the dead, after about half the season, the Mustang pieces have been holding up great. They did take boring them out a bit, just a couple hundredths or so. Where before, on "street" tires, I was blowing out the moog ones every couple weeks, this season, with bigger Hoosier slicks, they show no signs of wear. I can't speak for what these would do for normal street use, as I very rarely drive the 'Bird on the road, but throwing the stress of sticky 275/35 Hoosier A6s, with those big Cobra brakes working hard, hasn't seemed to had any real effect.
Which set of bushings, specifically?
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-12-2012, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTP-6-1205-BL

"WHAT CONE?!?!

1997 T-Bird Sport, 'Interceptor' (12 ESP 2008-2012)- CAI, 2.25 duals, Flowmaster 40 series, Clear corners, BBK 70mm Throttle Body, TrickFlow upper intake, PI Intake, BBK adjustable fuel pressure regulator, LE stripes, Bullitt-style gauge faces. 18x9 wheels, Sniper tuned, 3,620 pounds


1991 Ford F250 - Air restrictor delete. Cat delete.

1991 T-Bird 'Interceptor II' (12 CP 2013-) - Race-prep, Full custom "interior", Carb'd 302, Trick Flow twisted wedge heads, stage 1 cam, Custom Koni coil-overs front, Koni yellows rear, Cobra front brakes, fuel cell, 18X9 wheels, 275/30 Hoosier A6, 4.11 T-Lok. 3000 pounds

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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-12-2012, 02:37 PM
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Thank you, sir.
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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-15-2013, 09:20 PM
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has there been any more data updates on how the bushings are holding up on the front strut rod?

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