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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-06-2012, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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If it walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck...

Replaced both sides UCA and LCA with Moog parts about 2-3 months ago Also replaced front "struts" with Monroe and rears with KYB. Past few weeks I hear a groaning sound, almost sounds like "quacking", whenever I go slow over speed humps or when the car "floats" over a wavy road. The sound is definitely coming from the upper left suspension area. Went back to installer, who blamed recent rains (which don't happen often here in TX) affecting the UCA bushings and recommended WD-40. Sounds like total BS to me. Same area also occasionally has a loud knock on slow full turn. Any ideas?

BTW...sound stopped after WD, but I'm sure that didn't FIX anything.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-07-2012, 03:42 AM
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Maybe the weight of the car wasn't on the front suspension when he tightened everything down, causing the UCA bushings to bind up.

Just a thought!

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-07-2012, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodeo Joe View Post
Maybe the weight of the car wasn't on the front suspension when he tightened everything down, causing the UCA bushings to bind up.

Just a thought!

Joe
Can it be redone?
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-07-2012, 10:03 PM
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Easy, just loosen the top UCA bolt nuts, bounce the car up and down a time or two, and torque them back up to spec.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-08-2012, 12:08 AM
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And do not spray WD40 on those bushings. Use something like "Ruglyde" that is made for that, get it at NAPA, etc.

A fine pair ... ... and whatever you do, Have a Safe Trip!
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-08-2012, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalPistol View Post
And do not spray WD40 on those bushings. Use something like "Ruglyde" that is made for that, get it at NAPA, etc.
Already did, but just once...will that damage the bushings? What about silicone?

Last edited by 30thAnniversaryCat; 02-08-2012 at 08:51 PM. Reason: More info
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-08-2012, 11:03 PM
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Well, I don't know that it'll hurt them, but it really is more of a moisture displacer and a very light lubricant. There are better things to lubricate and protect rubber bushings that wil last longer is my intended point.

WD-40 is one of them "closely guarded secret concoction" things.

Perhaps my wording was a bit abrupt .... sorry ..... my bad.

A fine pair ... ... and whatever you do, Have a Safe Trip!
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-09-2012, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalPistol View Post
Well, I don't know that it'll hurt them, but it really is more of a moisture displacer and a very light lubricant. There are better things to lubricate and protect rubber bushings that wil last longer is my intended point.

WD-40 is one of them "closely guarded secret concoction" things.

Perhaps my wording was a bit abrupt .... sorry ..... my bad.
fish oil...

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-11-2012, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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fish oil...
how would you keep all the cats away?
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-11-2012, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30thAnniversaryCat View Post
how would you keep all the cats away?
I was saying fish oil is a key component of wd-40.

However... I'd keep cats away the same way I do now.

Great Dane's make wonderful everything deterrents....



Just ask this cat... courtesy of the Doritos super bowl commercial.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STb6ZSo5CPw

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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-11-2012, 07:54 PM
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Good Dog!



The uca bushings are solidly connected; thus the need to have the weight on them when you tighten them down.

Open the hood, loosen all 4, bounce the car a bit, then tighten them back down. Ratcheting wrenches rule.

If the bushing rotates in the arm, it's torn loose. It's not supposed to.

The pivot bolts at the shocks and the inner control arm bolt on the bottom need to be tightened the same way.

Don't do the inner bolt; it's an alignment point. Tell the alignment guy. And give him the specs in the suspension article.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-11-2012, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
Good Dog!



The uca bushings are solidly connected; thus the need to have the weight on them when you tighten them down.

Open the hood, loosen all 4, bounce the car a bit, then tighten them back down. Ratcheting wrenches rule.

If the bushing rotates in the arm, it's torn loose. It's not supposed to.

The pivot bolts at the shocks and the inner control arm bolt on the bottom need to be tightened the same way.

Don't do the inner bolt; it's an alignment point. Tell the alignment guy. And give him the specs in the suspension article.
What suspension article are you referring to?
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-11-2012, 11:47 PM
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I think this . And nice friend there Chris

Aggressive handling four wheel alignment settings

NOTE: Adverse tire wear is not an issue with these settings as
they are within the outer edge of the factory ranges.
These settings can be used for all the MN12 years and models.


Front Camber -1.3* Range min -1.3............+0.3 max

Front Caster +5.5* Range min +4.8............+6.3 max

Front Toe -0.03* Range min -0.03........+0.10 max

Rear Camber -1.0* Range min -1.0.........+0.0 max

Rear Toe -0.03* Range min -0.03......+0.19 max

*Preferred settings for aggressive handling



ALIGNMENT NOTES:

Rear camber adjustment is on the upper arm (inside bolt turns eccentric bushing)

Rear toe adjustment is on the lower arm (eccentric washer)

Front caster adjustment is on the strut rod (adjust length through frame)

Front camber adjustment is on the lower arm (eccentric washer)

Front toe adjustment is on the tie rods (adjust length)

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Last edited by Boston-Bull; 02-12-2012 at 12:11 AM.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-12-2012, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30thAnniversaryCat View Post
What suspension article are you referring to?
ThunderChecken copied it, but it's amazing what information can be had from The TCCoA Articles Collection ...

RwP
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-12-2012, 12:11 PM
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My alignment guy really liked me sharing that; other people really liked the way their car felt afterward.

For one, it gets rid of the rough transition to oversteer that most of these cars have under heavy cornering.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-13-2012, 12:40 AM
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My alignment guy (me)is a real jerk, he hates doing alignments...





<---- I align my own car's on state of the art hunter alignment machines.
The specs in the article are good for a fairly narrow, stock-ish sized front tire, after that I'd add a little more toe in on the front, especially if your running a 255/50/17 or 275/40/17 up front.

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-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
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