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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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need different opinions and answers

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whats rusted is this the ball joint correct?

do i have to buy controll arms and ball joint assembly, or just the ball joint?

oriely has both in ford motorcraft..

if i have to get the whole assembly how long can i ride around like this? since i been i noticed it week in half ago, and been driving.

car has a knocking in front and assuming thats whats wrong. lifted it tightend everything down shook everything. nothing. still the knocking around and tire hopping on sharp turns?

any help is appreciated.thanks
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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 12:06 AM
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Yes, that's the ball-joint that's rusted. Buy the whole control arm, I don't think the ball-joint itself is serviceable. Stick with Motorcraft, TRW, or Moog.

I would replace it asap. Search the forums for failed lower ball-joints to see what happens. Don't know if the upper ball-joints will fail in the same manner, but it's something I didn't want to find out.

Get yourself an 18mm ratcheting box wrench if you are replacing them yourself, it will make it so much easier/faster and have the car back on the ground before torquing down the control arm bolts.

Last edited by skinnytick; 04-17-2012 at 12:19 AM.
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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 01:44 AM
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I would replace that ASAP! Knocking and tire hopping on sharp turns IIRC means it is bad and will fail very soon. Could be dangerous.

I am replacing all four on mine this summer, and it will be a relief when it is done.. Recently I've read Moog is bad from other users on here. I think the general consensus now is Motorcraft?

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Last edited by Tbird1997; 04-17-2012 at 01:50 AM.
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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 01:45 AM Thread Starter
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http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2937&ppt=C0106

so this is all i need for both sides?
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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 01:51 AM
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That would be it. I don't see a price on there but I think I found the best price on Rockauto.com. Might be worth checking out.

-Patrick
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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 02:27 AM Thread Starter
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That would be it. I don't see a price on there but I think I found the best price on Rockauto.com. Might be worth checking out.
yea rockauto is cheapest but wont be able to get them until monday after next (cant order until friday) i was thinking about just buying them friday from oriely even though they cost alot (well for me at this time they do). i have a general idea how to put them on... but afraid im going to mess it up. idk guess im just going to have to attempt it. since my mechanic takes forever to get people in sometimes, hes always swamped...
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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 06:07 AM
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You'll need two jacks. The drivers side is the hardest (it's cramped in there) otherwise it's an easy job.

1997 Mark 8 LSC

Former owner:
1996 Thunderbird lx 4.6
1994 Thunderbird lx 4.6
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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 07:27 AM
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Wow, those are expensive! You can get one of these at Advance Auto for $30 if there is one near you. Here is how:

1) Add item to cart online: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...7CGRP60005____

2) Entire code A123 in "Promo Code" area of cart.

3) Purchase item and pick up at local Advanced Auto.


That's what I do and I save a ton on parts. Can even beat Rockauto 99% of the time, don't have to wait, and I can return the parts easily if there is a problem.

As for putting them in, they are pretty easy, but you have to use an access hole on the driver's side to get the rear nut off by the brake cylinder (I know this is a picture of a Mark VIII, but it's the same thing on a TBird):



Here is some info on replacement:
http://lincolnsofdistinction.org/vbu...ad.php?t=34174

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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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I rather go motorcraft then dorman though,you think motorcraft will last longer and be better. that's what im looking for. it's alot of money but i want it to last and give me no problems.

Don't I need to get alighnment after too?

Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 05-03-2012 at 01:28 AM. Reason: Merge posts
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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 12:25 PM
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dont i need to get alighnment after too.?
Nope, its not an adjustable point on the suspension.
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post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 12:27 PM
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I think we need have a thread or poll on what brand for our suspension is the best. See what most people say about these brands as I've heard so many different things on each..

EDIT: I have always been told anything major in suspension like control arms will need an alignment.

-Patrick
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post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Nope, its not an adjustable point on the suspension.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbird1997 View Post
I think we need have a thread or poll on what brand for our suspension is the best. See what most people say about these brands as I've heard so many different things on each..

EDIT: I have always been told anything major in suspension like control arms will need an alignment.
are you sure you dont need one SCT1994.? OR are you just jurking my chain trying to make me find out my self lol..jk..

and yes Tbird1997 thats what ive read
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post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Tbird1997 View Post
EDIT: I have always been told anything major in suspension like control arms will need an alignment.

Adjustable points are the Lower control arms, or Tie rods on the front suspension. On the rear, Upper arms, and Lower arms may require alignment. If you put on a set of Lowering springs, you need an alignment also.

Ive only done this a few dozen times on Tbirds and Marks. If you have un-even tire wear you probably need an alignment also, but the front suspension upper control arms are a static point that dont adjust in or out.

The best parts are TRW aka Motorcraft.

Last edited by dDUBb; 04-17-2012 at 12:48 PM.
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post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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what if alighnment was slightly off already before replacement. like mine, or can the upper controll arms on my bird condition that there in. be why my ride sways to right slightly.
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post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 12:54 PM
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are you sure you dont need one SCT1994.? OR are you just jurking my chain trying to make me find out my self lol..jk..

and yes Tbird1997 thats what ive read
SCT1994s right. The two bolts that hold the front UCA in the same place have no points of movement.

There's a notch in the vertical shaft coming out of the ball joint that prevents it from changing position in the spindle. The notch is in the same place on the old/new part so when you tighten everything together, the spindle will be at the same angle as before. Camber is maintained.

If your alignment was off before, it will still be off when you fix it. You might as well swap parts and THEN pay for an alignment.
-g

PS. There's an access hole for the rear UCA bolt on the driver's side? Hahaha
That was a serious PITA to install/remove; I think I barely fit a socket in from the top and could ratchet it ONE click. It took a while to replace that single bolt.

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post #16 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 12:55 PM
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LOL yeah .. if the alignment was already off, you needed one anyways, changing the upper control arm in itself is not going to change this.

Worst case, you take it to the alignment shop for their $69.99 special and they quote you $800 in replacement parts, because your LCA's were already worn out, so you take it back home, fix it yourself, and then bring it back for the alignment.
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post #17 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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no my mechanic only charges 35 for alignment at his shop no labor fee.... alright guess il have to attempt it friday or saturday... so thats all i need correct whats in the pic. thers nothing else for this repair..special tools etc.
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post #18 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 01:34 PM
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what if alighnment was slightly off already before replacement. like mine, or can the upper controll arms on my bird condition that there in. be why my ride sways to right slightly.
buy the parts bring it over and I wlll help you do them. Make sure when you buy the new ones that they have a zert fitting so you can grease them.
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post #19 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 02:01 PM
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Dont care much for zerk fittings, I prefer the OEM factory lubed and permenantly sealed. To each his own.
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post #20 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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idk what the motorcaft ones have.. look at the pic from oriely that i posted see if you can tell me SCTbird1994
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post #21 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 02:16 PM
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idk what the motorcaft ones have.. look at the pic from oriely that i posted see if you can tell me SCTbird1994
The Oreilly are the same as the ones you have on there now, stock TRW / Motorcraft .. no grease fitting.
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post #22 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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lol il just keep pm to you cause im bouncing back and forth from pming to the thread lol i got a headache now lol.
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post #23 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 02:23 PM
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My Motorcrafts have the grease fitting.

Anyone have any long term experiences with the Spicer pro UCAs like Supergordo has in his gallery? http://forums.tccoa.com/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=176

-Matt
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post #24 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 02:28 PM
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My Motorcrafts have the grease fitting.
Whered you find those ?
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post #25 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 02:33 PM
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From Ford. The Motorcrafts were $60 ea. and the "factory" arms were $90 ea. At least that's what I recall. The $90 ones were sealed for life.

-Matt
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post #26 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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From Ford. The Motorcrafts were $60 ea. and the "factory" arms were $90 ea. At least that's what I recall. The $90 ones were sealed for life.
ford parts.com has the ford genuine ones for 160 something dollars. for one. and motorcraft for 90 something dollars for one.
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post #27 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 02:44 PM
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Yeah the last set I picked up from the dealership were sealed, my buddy got an employee discount around $50 each for the sealed.

Speaking of UCA's .. the car I am working on now is making a knocking from the passengerr side UCA, balljoint boot is torn, BJ is rusty, just like the picture at the top of this thread - looks like I'll be doing the UCA on this car in the next day or so, Autozone / Dorman brand, no need to go fancy on a customers car unless they request it, Motorcraft on my personal vehicles.
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post #28 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 02:51 PM
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ford parts.com has the ford genuine ones for 160 something dollars. for one. and motorcraft for 90 something dollars for one.
That sounds right, I got mine through discount and ford has elevated prices over the past few years.

-Matt
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post #29 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah the last set I picked up from the dealership were sealed, my buddy got an employee discount around $50 each for the sealed.

Speaking of UCA's .. the car I am working on now is making a knocking from the passengerr side UCA, balljoint boot is torn, BJ is rusty, just like the picture at the top of this thread - looks like I'll be doing the UCA on this car in the next day or so, Autozone / Dorman brand, no need to go fancy on a customers car unless they request it, Motorcraft on my personal vehicles.
too bad i dont know anybody like that 50 bucks sounds good
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post #30 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 04:09 PM
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Yeah my bad on the pic from Oreillys, those are the greasable type with the Zerk fitting. I looked at them too quickly.
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