Replacing Rear UCA Outer Bushing Questions - 96 TB - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-05-2015, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Replacing Rear UCA Outer Bushing Questions - 96 TB

I have a 96 TB LX 4.6V8 (not Sport) and am replacing the UCA outer bushing to the rear knuckle (the drive shaft goes through the knuckle). Can someone supply me with detailed directions on removing the rear knuckle - pictures would be great. How difficult is this job and do I have to align the rear after I do the work?

Also, can someone provide a link to a supplier of the UCA bushing at a good price. The bushing should be a Moog K8588. I see Amazon has them at $36.

Any help is appreciated.

Glenn

1996 TB LX, 4.6, 120,000 miles, black with tan interior.
Dark tint and OEM "Sport" spoiler.

Last edited by Glenn; 01-05-2015 at 03:12 PM.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-05-2015, 03:08 PM
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All the alignment points are on the frame side of the control arms; you won't need to realign anything after reassembly.

It's been about 4 years since I've had to remove one, but I don't remember anything extraordinarily remarkable about the process... After you get the wheel off, remove the caliper and rotor, then remove the nut holding the half shaft in place. After that, it's the three nuts/bolts for the spindle itself; the halfshaft should just slide out of the knuckle, though it may take some persuasion if there's any corrosion.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-05-2015, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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TNX - where is the nut holding the DS in place? Car is totally Southern with no rust on the underside. I am hoping the DS slides out easily. What do you use if the DS is stuck?

1996 TB LX, 4.6, 120,000 miles, black with tan interior.
Dark tint and OEM "Sport" spoiler.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-05-2015, 03:39 PM
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The nut holding the half shaft is IIRC 36mm. Right on the end of the half shaft at the center of the hub. You can't miss it.

I'd suggest a 3 jaw puller if a couple stout taps with a big hammer doesn't break it free so as to not mushroom the top of the threaded section.

-Brandon
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 01:43 PM
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The real problem here is, getting some yahoo with a press to R+R the bushing.

Most of the time they look at you like the job is filling in the Grand Canyon.

When it really is a five minute in and out.

But, if you have a press its all moot.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-07-2015, 11:03 AM
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You can change this bushing without removing the spindle from the car. I did all of the spindle bushings with a piece of threaded rod and various other washers/spacers/etc in just a few minutes each.

This video is for the upper inner, but it's the same idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7rJ4tVNFPk

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-08-2015, 12:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jco1385 View Post
You can change this bushing without removing the spindle from the car. I did all of the spindle bushings with a piece of threaded rod and various other washers/spacers/etc in just a few minutes each.

This video is for the upper inner, but it's the same idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7rJ4tVNFPk
+1 I've changed my rear UCA & LCA bushings the same way on mine.

~Rick

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