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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-02-2015, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: usa
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a noise that puzzles me

Okay so the car has 130k on it. 2 owner including me and its always been babied except for a frw minor hard pulls burnouts etc.

I have 2 possible 3 noises ad i cant tell exactly what it is.

1. When i back up in a parking lot straight(havent tried backing and turning) i hear a sqweak sqweak sqweak when im backing up about 5 mph.
2. When i engadge reverse and the tire barely moves i hear a click sound. Just once. And it will eo it every time u put it in reverse and barely let it start to roll.

It clicks louder if u pat the gas after uve engadged reverse.

3.driving at 50+mph i hear a roaring or constant humming sound. I have never been able to tell if it goes away but it seems to me like it quiets down a bit when i go around curves to the left. (Maybe right rear wheel bearing).

If i push the gas with overdrive engadged it gets louder. I dont hear it under deceleration that i can tell.

A shop last year had my car on a lift replacing the failed right ball joints and said my back tires had a lot of play in them? Could that be my issue.



Any insight? Im replacing front hubs or bearings which ever is cheaper. Along with warped rotors and rear bearings, inner and outer tie rods. Hopefully all of that will remove the rear humming sound. Steering wheel shake thats always there and the bad pulsation and shakes when i brake.

I know someyhing has to be broke in my rear end and whole rear axle assembly because of the reverse clicking sound and the fact a local guy tols me to see if something is broke back up 2 car lengths put it in drive and if it spins and leaves 2 marks like a posi unit or trac lok then its fine. If it dosent then something is broke.

My Mods:
Spectre Custom Air Filter, greasable sway bar brackets - front/rear, custom shifter, plastic dip wheels/center caps original, port/polished throttle body(by me).

Future Mods:
3.73 Gears, 4.6 to 5.0 stroker kit. Supercharger, 100HP NOS shot, Built 4r70w (jmod 450+HP) Trac lok with HD clutches. Fold/split rear seat.

*recover all the leather, freshen it up and clean it.
*paint the whole interior black - 20%
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-02-2015, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 94
Jacked the car up tonight. Felt for play and found both rear tires have top play i pushed the tires in and sure enough there was 1-2"y" of play in the wheel. Seen i need upper inner control arm bushings. Its not hard to do right?

Ive changes out arms before on several vehicles and never have attempted to remove a control arm that is rested upon string tension. I want to replace the lowers while im there whats the safest way to remove our lower control arms because of the spring.

I figure with that bushing play i wont be abke to test bearing play until ita replaced.

Ive almost lost all the upper bushing on the right and ita riding half on the bushing and half on the metal sleeve and bolt. I believe thata where my noise is coming from that I described in my previous post

My Mods:
Spectre Custom Air Filter, greasable sway bar brackets - front/rear, custom shifter, plastic dip wheels/center caps original, port/polished throttle body(by me).

Future Mods:
3.73 Gears, 4.6 to 5.0 stroker kit. Supercharger, 100HP NOS shot, Built 4r70w (jmod 450+HP) Trac lok with HD clutches. Fold/split rear seat.

*recover all the leather, freshen it up and clean it.
*paint the whole interior black - 20%
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-03-2015, 07:51 AM
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Good news - the rear UCA is NOT under spring tension! You can actually jack the car up, put the jack stands under the LCAs, and pull the UCAs and rebush them!

As to the rear lower - easiest is to put the jack stands under the front subframe bolt, put a jack under the LCA, remove the spindle (good time to rebush IT also! And get the wheel bearings done, due to the age of the car), remove the half shafts (just pops out of the differential), put the jack under the LCA just enough to put tension on it, loosen (DO NOT REMOVE!) the LCA/subframe bolts, remove the shocks (again, good time to replace THOSE!), and ... slowly let the jack down. If the LCA doesn't swing far enough down to let the spring out, you can kick it down. Reverse to reassemble.

I did similar when doing the front springs on my Dodge Dakota - due to the deep pocket and shorter springs, I did have to use a 2x4 and a 2.5 lb sledge to coax the springs into the seat to jack it back up enough to put the shocks in, but had no problem removing them.

This MAY be a good time to replace the upper and lower spring seats, and to replace the spring with some Vogtland or Eibach sport springs.

RwP

Fuelly
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94thunderbird46 View Post

I figure with that bushing play i wont be abke to test bearing play until ita replaced
Here's what I did to determine whether it was bushing play or bearing play:

Grab the rear knuckle, spindle, stub axle, whatever you wanna call it, hold it steady and grab the studs (with the wheels removed of course) and pull on the hub from 3 and 9 and 6 and 12 and see if the hub moves relative to the rear knuckle. I think you'll be surprised, I know I was when I checked my Mark VIII.

Also, if your car has been through winter like mine has, you might be in for a new knuckle and axle like I did - they pretty much welded themselves together and couldn't be separated with a 20 ton press. Good luck!
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 11:08 AM
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I had no idea the upper inner UCA bushing was that easy to do. Mine are SHOT and I've had some of the good Raybestos ones sitting in the house for a few months. Might be a good time to throw in the Vogtlands I have as well.

1995 Thunderbird LX 4.6- 20% tint, removed air silencer and not much else! (Mustang hubs, Cobra brakes, Vogtland springs, Mark VIII LCAs, Sport shocks and more waiting to be installed)

2013 DIB GT 301A 6-speed- 15% tint, Kooks 1 7/8 mid lengths, off-road x and cat back, Barton 2-post bracket, JPC clutch line, Koni Yellows, Maximum Motorsports C/C plates, BMR K-member, A-arms, UCA & Mount, LCAs and relo brackets, Steeda Ultralites and PHB, Shaftmasters DS, Brembo wheels- Tuned by AED
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 11:27 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
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Yah, when I replaced my rear knuckles about three weeks ago, my nephew was doubtful - but it turns out, yep, jack stand under the spring seat lip to support the car and it held it up just fine even with the rear knuckle out.

Again, if you're going fancy back there, might be a good time to swap in Mark VIII UCAs (they're lightened a bit over MN12s, but otherwise interchangeable).

Now, springs and LCA items ... not so much *grins*

RwP

Fuelly
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 11:33 AM
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I've got some Mark VIII LCAs but they are bushing-less right now. I'm sure mine needs new knuckle bushings too but I don't feel like spending ~$600 right now on the bushings that Jay is making.

1995 Thunderbird LX 4.6- 20% tint, removed air silencer and not much else! (Mustang hubs, Cobra brakes, Vogtland springs, Mark VIII LCAs, Sport shocks and more waiting to be installed)

2013 DIB GT 301A 6-speed- 15% tint, Kooks 1 7/8 mid lengths, off-road x and cat back, Barton 2-post bracket, JPC clutch line, Koni Yellows, Maximum Motorsports C/C plates, BMR K-member, A-arms, UCA & Mount, LCAs and relo brackets, Steeda Ultralites and PHB, Shaftmasters DS, Brembo wheels- Tuned by AED
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 05:21 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bossier City, LA
Age: 63
Posts: 4,855
If you don't mind doing them again later, there's always the Energy Suspension poly knuckle bushings. They're not as good as Jay's, but they sure beat worn and old rubber ones!

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=4.3161

RwP

Fuelly
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