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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-07-2015, 02:56 AM Thread Starter
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Angry ok this is happening to me

I replaced the upper control arms because the ball joints were bad on them and I replaced the ball joints on the lower control arms.

Now I am getting a bad pull to the right and a bad wable on the left front rim.

I had it alliend when I did the upper and lower a arms.

right now I have moog lower control arms on the way the upper control arms are from moog and they feel like there new.

the lowers well they feel like I never replaced them did any one go threw this as well.

I am stumped on how the front is.

also I replaced the power steering lines and pump and now I have a problem with that.

I am now at the point I am going really you were fine for a year now it is running like I didn't do that work.

I am stumped
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-07-2015, 03:12 AM
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Typically it's best to change the ball joint with the control arms instead of pressing new ones in and out of the old ones with exception being the professional grade Raybestos parts which have oversized easily serviceable ball joints top and bottom. As far as steering racks go I had an atsco unit last me a week, next one a month, finally I got pissed off about it and pulled a non leaking unit from a junkyard.

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-07-2015, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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well I took a look at the front end with the tires off the bottom ball joints look like they imploded then exploded when I parked and jacked her up.

I do have a question while I am under her the inner and outer tie rods are original would you replace them while it is in the air and all apart.

I am not sure that the rack is giving me grief even though it is also original.

I don't want to mess with some thing that might might not have a issue.

if it does I will replace it but you know what I mean if it does not needs to be repaced why do it if it might not have a problem.

if it does I will though.

but thank you chris for the post it is some thing I will look into as well.

when I get under the car when I replace the lower control arms.

the uppers I know when I jiggled them it didn't budge and feels like there brand new.

I know there moog but I don't remember what the lowers were though but I wish I got the whole unit from moog
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 95mercxr7 View Post
well I took a look at the front end with the tires off the bottom ball joints look like they imploded then exploded when I parked and jacked her up.

I do have a question while I am under her the inner and outer tie rods are original would you replace them while it is in the air and all apart.

I am not sure that the rack is giving me grief even though it is also original.

I don't want to mess with some thing that might might not have a issue.

if it does I will replace it but you know what I mean if it does not needs to be repaced why do it if it might not have a problem.

if it does I will though.

but thank you chris for the post it is some thing I will look into as well.

when I get under the car when I replace the lower control arms.

the uppers I know when I jiggled them it didn't budge and feels like there brand new.

I know there moog but I don't remember what the lowers were though but I wish I got the whole unit from moog
Make sure all of the lca and uca bolts are tight. It's possible the alignment shop left a bolt loose. I've seen it before.

Check the wheel bearings for play. You could very well have a loose front wheel bearing, which would cause play in the wheel just like the balljoints. They are not serviceable and you will have to replace the hub. Very easy job. I did mine in about 15 minutes, in the dark, and snow and severe cold. Replace the axle nut too if you end up replacing the hub.

I wouldn't replace the tie rods unless there is actually play in them. They are greaseable on these cars and seem to go for a really, really long time.

Also note that ball joints will 'move' slightly when you are lifting the car off of the ground, they are a ball in socket just like your shoulder, but if they are moving up and down or you can wiggle the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock, that's bad.

Check to see if the balljoints were properly pressed in, all the way. It's possible whoever pressed them in got them in crooked or not all the way. That's very very dangerous.

Let us know what you find.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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when I have more time on Monday when I am off I will take a look at the hubs.

when I have the rotors off because I was going to replace them when I do the brakes down side I am going to do them both sooner than later.

I took a look at the lowers it looks like there coming apart already like the old ones did. it was hard to tell they were bad when I did the upers then the lowers a week later.

what I mean the tires didn't move when trying to wiggle the tires.

when I recently took the tires off and the nuts off of the lower control arm on the left the ball joint came apart in my hand.

also the two bushings one in the rear where it bolts to the frame and the one that the strut connects to are toast as well I am glad I got the lower control arms to go in the old ones place.

after I put every thing together I am deffinitly checking the hubs kind of wish that I got the front discs for a mustang so if I need the hubs done boom different gt rims haha. that's a joke at the end I like the stock look of my merc xr7.

I deffenitly will let every one know the run down.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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I did forgot to say with all this happening my power steering is leaking again. it also has all new hosses and pump I am also ticked about that. I am also looking for that leak at the same time as fixing every thing else. If I am agitated some how I am sorry. or come off weird as well I am sorry for that as well. It is like having a wreaking ball just hit you in the gut and have mile cyrus sing that song at the same time. annoying
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-10-2015, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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well the lower control arms are definitely shot the control arms when I did the front are still in great shape.

fed ex arrived with the lower control arms and all the bushings for it.

if I was going to take it apart why not replace them and make sure the bottom is all good again.

I got every thing from rock auto I was glad I got every thing in one stop shopping spree there for the lower half.

after I get it buttoned up I will double check the wheel hubs on the front end when I get time again almost every thing is put together just ran out of time.

Because I have to get ready for work tomorrow
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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well I have to do the uppers as well I forgotten how to take the spindle off of them. great

what I mean is you know how they grip the upper ball joint how do I get that thing off of it I forgot how to do it, or I am just frustrated on how the broken lower ball joint is still stuck on the lower part of the spindle.

I am tempted on how the lower is is to try to drill it out or have a shop try to press it out when I figure on how to get the upper off of it.

I also have to replace the hubs and the tie rod ends as well.

I found the power steering leak I think coming from the hoses from the power steering lines from the resivuior
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-17-2015, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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Ok while I have every thing apart.

I want to ask a question is would you replace the strut mounts as well as the hubs.

it is a nagging question damn if I don't damn if I do type of thing.

if I replace a might be good part to a might be defective one. but they are the originals been on the car since it was put together from the factory I know things do not last forever.

what I am getting at would it be more beneficial to replace them while I am at it.

I know the rack is the original to a point the inner and outer tie rods have been replaced with new but the rack is still original.

but I did just replaced the mounts for it with new ones while I am replacing every thing else again under the front again.

the ones I put on was more of a generic type which I wished I got the better type like moog or motorcraft
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-17-2015, 06:00 PM
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I don't think I had the strut mounts replaced when I bought new struts and they have squeaked going over speed bumps ever since. I bought aftermarket struts and I'm not sure what brand. I was paying a shop to do the work and did not want to pay the extra dough.

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-30-2015, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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so far it is a pain got every thing together but the old ball joints are stuck in the knuckle I am more than po right now.

I don't know why they are not coming out of the knuckle it feels like there stuck in the knuckle.

I used lube and all nothing helped when I use a ball joint tool and a air hammer tempted to take it to a shop and say can you try to take them out.

I don't have a torch to heat it up to see if it will come apart that way.

I am stumped to be honest
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-30-2015, 02:34 PM
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so far it is a pain got every thing together but the old ball joints are stuck in the knuckle I am more than po right now.

I don't know why they are not coming out of the knuckle it feels like there stuck in the knuckle.

I used lube and all nothing helped when I use a ball joint tool and a air hammer tempted to take it to a shop and say can you try to take them out.

I don't have a torch to heat it up to see if it will come apart that way.

I am stumped to be honest
Hit the side of the spindle with a BFH right near where the balljoint sits. Repeatedly, relentlessly and use a balljoint separator with a forcing screw tightened at the same time.

You could also try carefully jacking up on the hub with a floor jack for some extra leverage. I did all of the above and after about 45 minutes it separated.

Add some heat too if that doesn't work.

Keep in mind, the balljoint and spindle are a taper fit and they are in tight, and have been for a long time, so just keep at it and it will separate.

Be careful because when it separates, it will come apart with some force!
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-30-2015, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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it has been frustrating because my daily is acting up like it has another blown head gasket or another bad trans so I have to get this up and running supper fast.

also done right.

the last time my cougar was down this long I was taking my time with the pi intake swap making sure every thing was done right.

I hate to have her apart to be honest she has a sexy ride than that gm pos that is my dd.

I drive that gm as a daily to try to keep miles off of the cougar but still it is frustrating.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2015, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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ok this is frustrating I got every thing together now.

But that connecting rod thing that connects to the front frame to the lower control arm some how I don't know how.

it broke when I sat the car under its weight I don't know how it did it but it did.

now I don't know where to go to find that part what it really is called.

yes it was in a accident but the damage was on the left front fender and hood I got that corrected as well making sure that side is fixed.

I need help finding that part the part that broke was on the right not the left like I was expecting it would happen but I am flabbergasted.

I need help finding that part thank you for your help and chime in
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2015, 06:39 PM
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2015, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Rodeo Joe. I am having a hard time finding them on line as well
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2015, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95mercxr7 View Post
But that connecting rod thing that connects to the front frame to the lower control arm some how I don't know how.

it broke when I sat the car under its weight I don't know how it did it but it did.
Are you saying that the actual rod, which is flat in the middle, that runs between the front of the car frame or subframe (not even sure what part of the car that is it connects to in front) and the front suspension lower control arm, broke in half? How is that even possible - that's some pretty thick metal?! Has anyone else ever had that happen to them?

If that is what happened, and you can't find any for sale here, I'd go to your local Pick-a-Part or Pull-a-Part yard. I'm sure they wouldn't be too expensive, and you might get lucky and find a T-Bird or Cougar that has had the front suspension already at least partially disassembled!

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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 12:58 AM
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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it broke right where the nut is which stunk.

hay Ralph pm me I will take them
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