I would not even ATTEMPT to change the upper control arms without a ratcheting, closed-end 18mm wrench (I THINK that's the right size, If I remember correctly) - it'll make the job MUCH easier! I changed mine about 5 years ago, and it really wasn't difficult. If I recall correctly, I took that big, square wire harness connector, the one right by the A/C accumulator/drier, apart (removed the bolt and separated it into it's two halves); it made gaining access to the rear bolt on the passenger-side UCA MUCH easier.
My T-Bird was an Ohio car (at least, for part of it's life; it originally came from North Carolina), but I don't remember having any trouble separating the UCA's from the spindle. All it took was a couple of whacks with a good size hammer.
I tried changing my front sway-bar end-links about 6 years ago, right after I bought the car (they were shot SO bad, the car sounded as if the front suspension was about to fall off the car, every time I went over a bump!), but I couldn't get them to budge, either. I think maybe you need to use some kind of a puller to remove them. I had a shop install them for me, along with new KYB struts and new front coil springs (one of them, unknown to me, was broken). Both the springs and sway-bar end-links I had installed were Moog. I wasn't happy with the Moog springs (the front-end of my car "bobbed" up and down too much over dips on the highway), so I ended-up buying and installing Vogtland 3/4" drop springs (MUCH happier with those), but in over 6 years, I haven't had one, single problem with the Moog sway-bar end-links. I'd definitely go with those.
Last edited by dmw_4814; 06-10-2015 at 12:21 AM.