Strut to frame bushing sleeves - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Strut to frame bushing sleeves

Sorry to start a new thread but I have searched. I am trying to replace the strut arm to frame bushings (I have NOS bushings) but I can't get the old ones off the frame. I have the rod out but the bushings won't budge. I'm trying to save the sleeves and I don't know how they go together. Any suggestions on how to do this? I can put my finger in there but do not feel any separation of the two.

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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 05:49 PM
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Unfortunately the sleeves are probably rusted together and would be next to impossible to get them off the rod.

Check this thread out. Jay (98Mark8LSC) is reproducing these in stainless steel.

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodeo Joe View Post
Unfortunately the sleeves are probably rusted together and would be next to impossible to get them off the rod.

Check this thread out. Jay (98Mark8LSC) is reproducing these in stainless steel.

Joe
Yeah I saw this I was hoping to get this done today(yeah right) . Thing is the bushings look good and are tight. I've replaced everything but these and the rack (even new tires and wheels) and I still have a wheel wobble at 60 that goes away when I hit the brakes. I'm beginning to hate this car! Everything I do ends up just a couple more "hundred" Dollars.

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 07:49 PM
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Inner tie rods will do that; it will also react more to the wind.

Did you replace the wheel bearing?

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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Replaced one wheel bearing on drivers side. All new inners good old moog stock. I've shook, pried and wiggled and can't find anything loose. Funny' when I creep along slow then hit the brakes the wheel will move but not in any particular direction. Made a popping noise on passenger side so I assumed it was the frame bushing.

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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 02:49 AM
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Are the strut rod bushings and sleeves you are trying to remove the original ones?

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 03:03 AM Thread Starter
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Yep that's them. Thanks for the pic. I'm going to try to order some stainless replacements if I can. So I take it there is two sleeves and they must rust together. Prying on these they are tight, no cracks, now I believe they are not the problem.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 01:26 PM
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While taking that pic I realized how much better and longer those sleeves are compared to the aftermarket ones that keep failing so I'm planning on putting the old bushings back in. I'm not sure what kind you're running but if they aren't OEM or at least like the ones from Supercoupeperformance they are probably a waste of $30-50. If I had the cash I would have bought the set Draetech in the Parts for Sale forum was selling.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I've got some Motorcraft bushings I bought several years ago just in case. I did not realize that the metal sleeves were such a pain. I trying to get a hold of a member here that makes stainless ones. Otherwise it's an aftermarket kit because these things are obsolete.

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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-26-2015, 01:35 AM
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The problem I'm having with aftermarket sleeves is that they have been too short causing strain on the rubber with eventually splits and turns into something like a peeled mushroom.







Before install put the bushings together and slide the sleeve in and check. Mine are at least 1/4" too short. Usually the outer bushing fails but this time around I have an inner going out on me.

I like how the OEM bushings have a metal cup on the inners.

Too be honest when I first tried removing them I suppose I was taking it too easy on them but when I gave up and just gave them a few good whacks with a screwdriver and a 32oz hammer that's when I broke the torque and managed not to damage them much if at all. If you use enough penetrating spray like PBlaster or Liquid Wrench you should work it out eventually.

Last edited by V8ThunderCat; 07-26-2015 at 01:44 AM.
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-26-2015, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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I've got mine soaking right now in PB. Why not just cut something the right diameter to fit? Do the other sleeves slide inside each other for a purpose? I'll bet the flange at the end adds strength to the end.

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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-27-2015, 01:29 AM
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The stock bushings leave a gap almost an 1/8" wider than aftermarket and overall the systems are about the same length just don't forget to add the thickness of the aftermarket washers.



The sleeve is at least 1/4" away from the end of the bushing.



And even the other end is recessed a tad.

These aftermarket bushings seem to put all of the pressure on other outer bushing or whichever bushing gets the least of the sleeve. OEM seems to make the sleeves and washers do the most work and allow the bushings to work properly by taking their pressure from the frame. I couldn't take the outer bushings off the old sleeves because it receives the most rust.


Last edited by V8ThunderCat; 07-27-2015 at 01:36 AM.
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-27-2015, 06:36 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the pics. Now I understand what I'm trying to do a little better. When the stainless ones ones I ordered get here I 'm going to try to get the old ones apart and save what I can. Thanks for all the help,

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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-27-2015, 09:51 PM
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I'm glad I could help. Pics are really worth 1,000 words and are hard to find most times!
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 10:34 AM
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I was able to save my stock sleeves with some patience and perseverance. My frugality would not allow for $135 to buy new ones. Some precision Dremel work and careful prying provided me with a reusable set.

This is what the inner flare looks like. You want to grind it flat to allow it to slide thru.


This is what it looks like after the flare is gone. Be careful not to cut the outer sleeve. You can rotate it by hand to get at it better.


Apply liberal amounts of PB Blaster and use a long pry bar between the K-member and the washers to gently pull the inner from the outer. Pay careful attention to NOT pull the head off the inner sleeve (as seen in this pic).


I ended up using the set on the left and the outer on the right. I scavenged another inner from my parts car by cutting the washer off the outer sleeve to remove the assembly from the car. Then used a bench grinder to cut a groove and peel the outer off and keep the inner. Wire brush all parts and lube. Good to go. It took about an hour to pull the set that actually came apart. The second one was more fun. Now I get to do it again for the other car.

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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah my "frugality" has been over run by my frustration

Good pics that's what I kind of had in mind. I want to try and save my old ones. Thanks for the help.

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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Well I got the arms on today. Couldn't save the old sleeves. I smashed the outer softer one till I could slide it all off. I'm going to let them soak and get them apart. I was thinking about the sleeves on the steering rack or some similar that could serve this purpose.

The bushings looked good to me I think I just wasted my time. Took it for a spin and the steering wheel still jerks at slow speeds when you hit the brakes. Also the amp quit for the stereo. @#%#^$&@@# lincoln!

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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-07-2015, 01:55 AM
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This may seem unrelated but have you flushed your power steering fluid? I had a bad jerk until I did so.
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-07-2015, 05:55 AM Thread Starter
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No but that's next. I also found the high pressure ins is seeping also.

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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-09-2015, 11:55 AM
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Sorry that hasn't seemed to fix the problem.

Have you had it aligned since the installation? That is one of the alignment adjustment points.
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post #21 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-09-2015, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98mark8lsc View Post
Sorry that hasn't seemed to fix the problem.

Have you had it aligned since the installation? That is one of the alignment adjustment points.
No alignment yet, have to wait for an appointment, a good alignment shop is like a fine restaurant your going to wait. However, when I spun the left wheel the caliper felt a little tight and seemed to hit the rotor intermittently. It's all new Raybestos professional grade brake parts but maybe I got a bad one. Will check it out after the alignment.

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post #22 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-09-2015, 09:58 PM
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I hope that doesn't mean you have bad hub bearings.
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post #23 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-09-2015, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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Nah I've replaced both sides, Timken, heck I've replaced everything from the uca's down, except for the rack. I also re-torqued the frame bolts and front end components. Checked the rack bushings and they're good. The rack has a sticker that says "remanufactured" on it. Also checked the rag joint.

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