Front Shock Lower Mounting Bolt/Nut - TCCoA Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-15-2015, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
dmw_4814's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Age: 56
Posts: 1,164
Send a message via Yahoo to dmw_4814
Front Shock Lower Mounting Bolt/Nut

My next project, after I finish completely rebuilding my A/C system on my '97 Thunderbird Sport, is to completely rebuild my front & rear suspensions. I've already got 90% of the parts I need for the rear suspension (including hubs that I had Stuart Spencer, of the Factory Five car enthusiasts crowd, install new wheel bearings into & clean up - they look freaking brand-new!!), and I'm starting to procure all the parts for the front suspension (my front suspension rebuild is also going to include a new rack-and-pinion unit).

Anyway, I want to replace the front shock lower mounting bolt/nut with new ones, and I'm wondering if anyone has a source for the bus, as they're obsolete from Ford, and my local dealer says no one shows that they have any, still (the bolts, he said, are still available from Ford, for roughly $13 each).

My intention is to just remove the old front shocks & lower control arms as one complete unit on each side, and not try to deal with removing the lower shock mounting bolts, which I know from experience can be a REAL pain!! I rebuilt my front suspension back in 2009 (my front end has never felt right, despite having a new steering rack installed in 2012, after towing it from Cleveland, OH, where I used to live, out here to Phoenix, AZ, where I moved to a little over 3 years ago; the rubber boots on the ends of my rack have been torn for well over a year, and that's why I want to replace it again).

Anybody know what kind of a nut is used in the front shock lower mounting bolt, so I can go into NAPA or Carquest (did you guys know Advance owns Carquest?), and get the correct nut?

Size? Hardness? Thread pitch?

Thanks,

Dennis
dmw_4814 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-15-2015, 02:19 PM
Moderator & Teksid Whore
Super Moderator
 
guitar maestro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Laredo, Texas
Age: 40
Posts: 11,961
Send a message via MSN to guitar maestro Send a message via Yahoo to guitar maestro
M14 x 2.0. The nut doesn't have markings, but since the bolt is 10.9, I'd say get a 10.9 nut as well. Most importantly, it needs to be a nyloc style. I'd probably add blue threadlocker on there as well.

Belmetric Zinc
Belmetric Yellow Zinc

I personally like the yellow zinc coating, lol

The bolt is nothing special, aside from the fact that it has that tab that makes loosening/tightening a lil bit easier. Just a standard 10.9 Grade flanged hex bolt.

Last edited by guitar maestro; 08-15-2015 at 02:50 PM.
guitar maestro is offline  
post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-16-2015, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
dmw_4814's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Age: 56
Posts: 1,164
Send a message via Yahoo to dmw_4814
Quote:
Originally Posted by guitar maestro View Post
M14 x 2.0. The nut doesn't have markings, but since the bolt is 10.9, I'd say get a 10.9 nut as well. Most importantly, it needs to be a nyloc style. I'd probably add blue threadlocker on there as well.

Belmetric Zinc
Belmetric Yellow Zinc

I personally like the yellow zinc coating, lol

The bolt is nothing special, aside from the fact that it has that tab that makes loosening/tightening a lil bit easier. Just a standard 10.9 Grade flanged hex bolt.
Thanks for the info, sir - it's very much appreciated!

Yeah, that's really why I want the factory bolt; just for the tab on it (I'm kinda anal, like that, LOL)!

Dennis
dmw_4814 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-16-2015, 12:01 PM
Moderator & Teksid Whore
Super Moderator
 
guitar maestro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Laredo, Texas
Age: 40
Posts: 11,961
Send a message via MSN to guitar maestro Send a message via Yahoo to guitar maestro
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmw_4814 View Post
Thanks for the info, sir - it's very much appreciated!

Yeah, that's really why I want the factory bolt; just for the tab on it (I'm kinda anal, like that, LOL)!

Dennis
Tabs can be welded onto new bolt heads if the heat input is kept to a minimum. Tried it myself a couple of times. So long as the bolt shank under the hex doesn't get red-hot to lose the temper from heat-treat (aka: if you mistakenly use oxy-acet welding), then its all good.
guitar maestro is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome