Bent my rear sub frame - TCCoA Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Black_Cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Age: 28
Posts: 1,640
Garage
Send a message via AIM to Black_Cat
Bent my rear sub frame

I'm FU**ING PISSED. I was torquing down my rear diff to sub frame bolts and set my snap on wrench to 125 ft lbs, As I was torquing it would get close to the torque, then keep going, it felt odd, but not overly tight. Finally I checked up at the top of the bolt, and the whole area around the bolt and the bolt itself is sunk down 1/4" in a bent bowl down into the sub frame. I feel like now I'll need to get another one...it just never fails with these cars, go to fix one thing, destroy another.



2011 BMW X5 35i Premium Package
2009 BMW 535i ///M Sport Package
Black_Cat is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 11:27 AM
Humble MN12 Genius
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 16,655
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
Can't blame the car in this instance, that's WAY too much torque.

-Matt
XR7-4.6 is offline  
post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Black_Cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Age: 28
Posts: 1,640
Garage
Send a message via AIM to Black_Cat
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Can't blame the car in this instance, that's WAY too much torque.
Ford spec is 100-155 ft lbs. check your service manual.



2011 BMW X5 35i Premium Package
2009 BMW 535i ///M Sport Package
Black_Cat is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 11:33 AM
Road warrior extrodinaire

Super Moderator
 
Trunk Monkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Home Sweet Home: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 11,785
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Can't blame the car in this instance, that's WAY too much torque.
What is the recommended torque for that location?

Edit: N/M, Thanks Ian.

Hell, Hammer it back and add a washer to distribute the load.

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto
Trunk Monkey is offline  
post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Black_Cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Age: 28
Posts: 1,640
Garage
Send a message via AIM to Black_Cat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey View Post
What is the recommended torque for that location?

Edit: N/M, Thanks Ian.

Hell, Hammer it back and add a washer to distribute the load.
I wish it were that simple, the member it bolts to is a box, so you cant get underneath to hammer it out



2011 BMW X5 35i Premium Package
2009 BMW 535i ///M Sport Package
Black_Cat is offline  
post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 11:49 AM
Humble MN12 Genius
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 16,655
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_Cat View Post
Ford spec is 100-155 ft lbs. check your service manual.
I think you're mixing up newton meters with foot pounds, and your spec is still wrong

Quote:
Originally Posted by Torque View Post
And for anyone interested in frame specs, my disc manual says:

Description Nm Lb-Ft
Front Sub-Frame-to-Body Through Bolts 97-132 72-97
Stabilizer Bar Links-to-Front Wheel Spindle Retainers 55-75 41-55
Lower Arm Inner Pivots-to-Front Sub-Frame Retainers 125-170 92-125
Front Suspension Lower Arm Struts-to-Front Suspension Lower Arm Retainers 120-160 89-118
Front Spring and Shock-to-Front Suspension Lower Arm Retainers 140-195 103-144
Rear Sub-Frame-Body-Insulator Retaining Bolts 98-132 72-97
Rear Sub-Frame Stabilizer Bracket Retaining Bolts 47-63 35-46
Rear Axle Differential Front Insulator Bolts 77-104 56-76
Rear Differential Insulator Horizontal Bolt Plate Assembly Retaining Nuts 102-122 75-90
Rear Axle Differential Insulator-to-Rear Sub-Frame Bolts 77-104 56-76

Steering Coupling Pinch Bolt 28-40 21-30
Tie Rod End-to-Front Wheel Spindle Retainers 53-73 39-54
Front Engine Support Insulator Through Bolts (3.8L) 47-68 35-50
Front Engine Support Insulator Through Bolts (4.6L) 47-63 35-46
Driveshaft to Rear Axle Universal Joint Flange Retaining Bolts 95-130 70-96
Reinforcement Rod-to-Front Sub Frame Retaining Bolts 97-132 72-97

-Matt
XR7-4.6 is offline  
post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 12:09 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
jco1385's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 3,744
Garage
Can you make a 'washer' out of some steel plate big enough to spread the load past the bowl?

1994 Thunderbird - 2000 4.2L M5R2 now has 55k

1995 Thunderbird - 2002 Alum 4.6L SVO - Awaiting transplant... (Parts donor)

1996 Cougar - 2004 3.9L 4R70W
jco1385 is offline  
post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Black_Cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Age: 28
Posts: 1,640
Garage
Send a message via AIM to Black_Cat


My eyes are still good, step 7



2011 BMW X5 35i Premium Package
2009 BMW 535i ///M Sport Package
Black_Cat is offline  
post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 01:49 PM
Humble MN12 Genius
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 16,655
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
Just to satisfy my curiosity that that's not a misprint, be a dear and turn the page to the equivalent step for the 8.8

-Matt
XR7-4.6 is offline  
post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 01:52 PM
Road warrior extrodinaire

Super Moderator
 
Trunk Monkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Home Sweet Home: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 11,785
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Just to satisfy my curiosity that that's not a misprint, be a dear and turn the page to the equivalent step for the 8.8
LOL

Reminds me of reading welding codes. Make certain that you're looking at exactly the same criteria for exactly the same weld you're inspecting.

In Ian's defense, my guess is they'll be the same.

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto

Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 10-13-2015 at 02:00 PM.
Trunk Monkey is offline  
post #11 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 01:56 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
theterminator93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: North Ridgeville, Ohio
Age: 31
Posts: 9,065
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_Cat View Post
My eyes are still good, step 7
Uhh.... Evidently not.

Step 7 describes and provides figures for the bolts that go through the back of the diff, not the IRS subframe, which is step 8. You looked in the wrong place. Text and figures is BELOW the picture, not above.

-Brandon
97 Laser Red Thunderbird LX 162k, Stage 2 4.6L 2v N/A | 300 BHP (255 RWHP, 290 RWTQ) | 13.95 @ 97.58 | Build details | Pics at the Lorain Assembly plant
98 Black Mark VIII 160k, stock daily driver
07 Redfire Fusion V6 SEL 178k, for the wife
Gone but not forgotten: 96 Mark VIII, 94 Cougar XR7, 93 Mark VIII

TCCoA's resident pilot since 2014
Once you have tasted flight, you will walk the world with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return. -Leonardo da Vinci
theterminator93 is offline  
post #12 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 02:02 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
jco1385's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 3,744
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
Uhh.... Evidently not.

Step 7 describes and provides figures for the bolts that go through the back of the diff, not the IRS subframe, which is step 8. You looked in the wrong place. Text and figures is BELOW the picture, not above.


Looks like he is reading it correctly to me. #8 talks about index marks for the driveshaft.

1994 Thunderbird - 2000 4.2L M5R2 now has 55k

1995 Thunderbird - 2002 Alum 4.6L SVO - Awaiting transplant... (Parts donor)

1996 Cougar - 2004 3.9L 4R70W
jco1385 is offline  
post #13 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 02:09 PM
Humble MN12 Genius
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 16,655
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
Quote:
Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
Uhh.... Evidently not.

Step 7 describes and provides figures for the bolts that go through the back of the diff, not the IRS subframe, which is step 8. You looked in the wrong place. Text and figures is BELOW the picture, not above.
No he's looking in the right spot, although the specs in step 8 ironically are exactly what I torque the diff mount to

-Matt
XR7-4.6 is offline  
post #14 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Black_Cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Age: 28
Posts: 1,640
Garage
Send a message via AIM to Black_Cat
I can't believe I missed that this was the page for the 7.5" diff, not the 8.8"...Well at least on the bright side I got it tightened pretty good, and It's mostly back together, so once I wrap up the necessary mods, I'll limp it out to Hampton and swap out the sub frame with one from the yard.



2011 BMW X5 35i Premium Package
2009 BMW 535i ///M Sport Package
Black_Cat is offline  
post #15 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 02:48 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
theterminator93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: North Ridgeville, Ohio
Age: 31
Posts: 9,065
Garage
If you insist, lol. Still looks like text goes to the pic above since there's no text above the top pic. I agree the text in step 8 doesn't at all describe what's in either pic... but the text in step 7 describes what you see in the top pic. Almost like there's a missing block of text.

I wouldn't mind seeing the whole page though or the page in the 8.8 section either though.

It is what it is at this point... nothing to do about it but clean up and move on. That's life for you.

-Brandon
97 Laser Red Thunderbird LX 162k, Stage 2 4.6L 2v N/A | 300 BHP (255 RWHP, 290 RWTQ) | 13.95 @ 97.58 | Build details | Pics at the Lorain Assembly plant
98 Black Mark VIII 160k, stock daily driver
07 Redfire Fusion V6 SEL 178k, for the wife
Gone but not forgotten: 96 Mark VIII, 94 Cougar XR7, 93 Mark VIII

TCCoA's resident pilot since 2014
Once you have tasted flight, you will walk the world with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return. -Leonardo da Vinci
theterminator93 is offline  
post #16 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 03:03 PM
Humble MN12 Genius
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 16,655
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_Cat View Post
I can't believe I missed that this was the page for the 7.5" diff, not the 8.8"...Well at least on the bright side I got it tightened pretty good, and It's mostly back together, so once I wrap up the necessary mods, I'll limp it out to Hampton and swap out the sub frame with one from the yard.
Honestly as long as the metal up top didn't shear off it's probably fine as is, I'd only seek replacement if it caved in on the bottom since it could throw off the pinion angle. Plus if you're pissed about this you'll be even more pissed when you end up snapping one or more of the captured nuts in the unibody trying to loosen the IRS mounting bolts

Quote:
Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
If you insist, lol. Still looks like text goes to the pic above since there's no text above the top pic. I agree the text in step 8 doesn't at all describe what's in either pic... but the text in step 7 describes what you see in the top pic. Almost like there's a missing block of text.

I wouldn't mind seeing the whole page though or the page in the 8.8 section either though.

It is what it is at this point... nothing to do about it but clean up and move on. That's life for you.
I think the pic above step 7(step 6?) illustrates the positioning of the mount in place before securing it to either the subframe or diff cover... then again you'd think it or step 8 would show the diff mount to diff cover bolts being torqued to spec.

-Matt
XR7-4.6 is offline  
post #17 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 03:09 PM
̇
 
Rayo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3,702
Garage
I've noticed the lb-ft torque figures in the service manual are a little on the high side in two places..

The differential rear mount to cross member nuts and bolts..As well as the transmission cross member bolts..

With that in mind..As I torque things to spec..I pay attention to how things are reacting while getting close to the max lb-ft rating..

Like..If things start to cave in from over torqueing..Even though that's what the service manual says..

When I reached 130 lb-ft on mine..I stopped there just because I thought "damn that's a lot of focking torque!"

I think you'll be fine..Just back it down to 122-130 lb-ft..

If you're really worried about it though..Do like someone else mentioned and throw some thick azz washers on the bowled part of the subframe..

It would be wise for anyone in the future to pay attention to these particular torque ratings, and to use the lower end of the torque rating (122 lb-ft) vs (156 lb-ft)






Rayo..

.
.
1991 Ford Thunderbird Sport

"If you don't know where you're going..Any road will take you there."George Harrison
Rayo is offline  
post #18 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 05:54 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
dDUBb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Nor-Cal
Age: 38
Posts: 4,139
Garage
Yeah my 1994 Service manual says 80-100 ft lbs for the differential rear insulator to crossmember bolts. You dont need a new subframe, thats just going way too far .. just throw a washer on it and redistribute the load.

Oh yeah .. and HA HA .. you get an LOL for that one.
dDUBb is offline  
post #19 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Black_Cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Age: 28
Posts: 1,640
Garage
Send a message via AIM to Black_Cat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayo View Post
I've noticed the lb-ft torque figures in the service manual are a little on the high side in two places..

The differential rear mount to cross member nuts and bolts..As well as the transmission cross member bolts..

With that in mind..As I torque things to spec..I pay attention to how things are reacting while getting close to the max lb-ft rating..

Like..If things start to cave in from over torqueing..Even though that's what the service manual says..

When I reached 130 lb-ft on mine..I stopped there just because I thought "damn that's a lot of focking torque!"

I think you'll be fine..Just back it down to 122-130 lb-ft..

If you're really worried about it though..Do like someone else mentioned and throw some thick azz washers on the bowled part of the subframe..

It would be wise for anyone in the future to pay attention to these particular torque ratings, and to use the lower end of the torque rating (122 lb-ft) vs (156 lb-ft)






Rayo..
80-100 ft lbs is actually the correct torque, the ones you stated above are the 7.5" axle.



2011 BMW X5 35i Premium Package
2009 BMW 535i ///M Sport Package
Black_Cat is offline  
post #20 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 06:16 PM
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
It's easy to mix up the NM and foot pound specs.

I've done once torquing my lug nuts. Luckily I stopped and double checked when it seemed like it was getting impossibly tight. Certainly a Doh! face palm moment.

I normally look at the specs in the manual and shoot for the middle or adjust things up or down from that taking in account things like thread wear and fastener type. Locking non locking etc. if it's used or new. I like to sneak up on stuff in several steps not just go for the summit in one shot.

If all else fails just remember the guys down at Midas are using a rattle gun 90% of the time. I use a torque wrench because I want to be sure. I don't do this full time. And I don't want stuff working loose. But frankly tight is tight. Most of us have a pretty good feel for when we are getting there or if something's not right.

Torque specs in books can be notoriously wrong too. For any given size bolt there's more or less a max torque. Depending on the material and hardness. Somewhere I have a booklet (from I beleive FelPro) that gives some recommendations. One of the more popular book it may have been "How to Hot Rod your Small Block Chevy" listed the wrong spec for the stock rod bolts. It was too high. Way to high. The old guy in the local machine shop told me about that. About once every two weeks some one would bring him a couple rods to repair where they had over torqued them and snapped them. I mention that because just because it's in print doesn't always mean it's right.
97CatMan is offline  
post #21 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 06:25 PM
Seasoned PostWhore

Super Moderator
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tinton Falls, NJ
Age: 37
Posts: 7,451
Garage
Send a message via AIM to MadMikeyL
Why would the 7.5" diff have a different torque value? And if the 7.5" can be torqued to 150#, why can't the 8.8? Both setups use the exact same subframe, so both should distort at the same pressure. As for the washers, I think people are forgetting that you can't get those bolts out with the subframe installed in the car, so I think you have no choice but to remove the subframe, and at that point, you might as well replace it, and if it is in the budget, you might as well get the UHMW subframe bushings too.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
-97 Tbird Sport 4.6 Nice weather daily driver
-"Your buddy Mike is INSANE!" -ClintD's dad
MadMikeyL is offline  
post #22 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Black_Cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Age: 28
Posts: 1,640
Garage
Send a message via AIM to Black_Cat
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMikeyL View Post
Why would the 7.5" diff have a different torque value? And if the 7.5" can be torqued to 150#, why can't the 8.8? Both setups use the exact same subframe, so both should distort at the same pressure. As for the washers, I think people are forgetting that you can't get those bolts out with the subframe installed in the car, so I think you have no choice but to remove the subframe, and at that point, you might as well replace it, and if it is in the budget, you might as well get the UHMW subframe bushings too.
I am wondering the same thing, I think they use different style fasteners. Yeah getting a new frame tomorrow



2011 BMW X5 35i Premium Package
2009 BMW 535i ///M Sport Package
Black_Cat is offline  
post #23 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 08:45 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
dDUBb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Nor-Cal
Age: 38
Posts: 4,139
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMikeyL View Post
As for the washers, I think people are forgetting that you can't get those bolts out with the subframe installed in the car, so I think you have no choice but to remove the subframe, and at that point, you might as well replace it, and if it is in the budget, you might as well get the UHMW subframe bushings too.
It only needs to be lowered a small amount if at all, there is a bit of clearance and the bolts arent that long not nearly as big of a task as replacing the subframe entirely, but hard to say without actually seeing the damage first hand.
dDUBb is offline  
post #24 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 09:00 PM
Seasoned PostWhore

Super Moderator
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tinton Falls, NJ
Age: 37
Posts: 7,451
Garage
Send a message via AIM to MadMikeyL
Lowering it might work, depending how much play is in the subframe bushings. They definitely won't come all the way out with the subframe bolted in place though.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
-97 Tbird Sport 4.6 Nice weather daily driver
-"Your buddy Mike is INSANE!" -ClintD's dad
MadMikeyL is offline  
post #25 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 09:42 PM
Humble MN12 Genius
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 16,655
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
Like I said, unless the subframe steel sheared when it bent I don't think it's even necessary to remove the bolt and add washer. The rear mount is still exactly where it needs to be, that's all that matters

-Matt
XR7-4.6 is offline  
post #26 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 10:12 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
tbirdtess's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Western New York
Age: 53
Posts: 2,542
rear?



Hello

is this the rear or forward mount?


Paul [email protected]
1990 Thunderbird Circle Track Street Stock
351W 2bbl.
C-4 Auto
3.90 open rear
tbirdtess is offline  
post #27 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-14-2015, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Black_Cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Age: 28
Posts: 1,640
Garage
Send a message via AIM to Black_Cat
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Like I said, unless the subframe steel sheared when it bent I don't think it's even necessary to remove the bolt and add washer. The rear mount is still exactly where it needs to be, that's all that matters
The bolt and surrounding area are so deformed I wouldn't trust it under power. I just can't believe it all deformed with that much torque, I would have expected at least 150 to do that.



2011 BMW X5 35i Premium Package
2009 BMW 535i ///M Sport Package
Black_Cat is offline  
post #28 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-14-2015, 03:31 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
dDUBb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Nor-Cal
Age: 38
Posts: 4,139
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_Cat View Post
The bolt and surrounding area are so deformed I wouldn't trust it under power. I just can't believe it all deformed with that much torque, I would have expected at least 150 to do that.
The torque is a measure of resistance .. if that bolt had any grease or oil on it, you're going to be making it tighter than your wrench will read - one reason I like beam style torque wrenches, they dont lie .. click type wrenches you're still relying on the cam pushing off the spring against the beam .. its easy to surpass the torque and not even know it especially with lower scale settings. A little experience goes a long way when you're wrenching on a bolt that feels a bit too tight for the torque you are trying to achieve.

I would think the dug in bolt is more secure than anything else. The last time I broke something in the rear, it was the entire rear mount ripping in half. Ive seen broken half shafts, differential covers .. . but never heard of a differential mount bolt or subframe breaking in the last 18+ years Ive been working on these cars and visiting the forums.
dDUBb is offline  
post #29 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-16-2015, 01:38 PM
Moderator & Teksid Whore
Super Moderator
 
guitar maestro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Laredo, Texas
Age: 40
Posts: 11,961
Send a message via MSN to guitar maestro Send a message via Yahoo to guitar maestro
Oohhh. I need to hurry up and finish building jigs and order some more 4130 chromoly. And fix my stupid bender does.
guitar maestro is offline  
post #30 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-19-2015, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Black_Cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Age: 28
Posts: 1,640
Garage
Send a message via AIM to Black_Cat
Well I have a new sub frame I pulled from the yard in awesome shape, going to get some welds reinforced on it to augment the crappy factory ones. Was going to get the frame sand blasted prior to, but I've read that sand blasting will mess up the welding capability in some cases? Something with the oxides/residue that the process leaves behind, although this is 1/8" stamped steel, not stainless or aluminum. Thoughts? It's only $75 for the whole frame.



2011 BMW X5 35i Premium Package
2009 BMW 535i ///M Sport Package
Black_Cat is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome