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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-24-2015, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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Blown power steering line

So I blew a power steering line, the one from the pump to rack (rust). Now looking at the rack side, how on earth am I supposed to disconnect that fitting? Do I need to drop the k-member / pull the motor lol?

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2015, 12:59 AM
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It helps to have a short ... 18mm IIRC ... stubby open end wrench.

I also found knowing Klingon profanity helped ME *grins*

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2015, 06:32 AM
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I'm pretty sure that a blown power steering line essentially means that the car is totalled and that you should just have it towed to the salvage yard.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2015, 08:28 AM
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Stubby wrench. Possibly lowering the subframe for better access. A lift. A lot of patience. A high tolerance for frustration.

I just had a whole rack done. Unless you have a lift the hose connections at the rack are supposed to be a real pain. As much as we like doing our own work this might be something to farm out to a pro.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2015, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaddMartigan View Post
I'm pretty sure that a blown power steering line essentially means that the car is totalled and that you should just have it towed to the salvage yard.
Unfortunately this is a real consideration...
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2015, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by David_viny View Post
Unfortunately this is a real consideration...
Don't sweat it, it's not that bad. The fitting that comes out of the rack probably doesn't need to be changed. Just the hose and it's not a lot of fun but be patient and changing it won't be that bad.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1992 Ford Thunderbird SC

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-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2015, 11:21 AM
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You can buy the factory hose, or,

http://forums.tccoa.com/992-suspensi...ring-line.html

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2015, 11:44 AM
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The steering rack is one of the few bits I'd pay someone to do.

Just make them do it for book hours, lol.

(It's a 2 hour job in the book, iirc; well worth it.)

I had success by using two crow's foot adapters on extensions, but YMMV. My hands really don't fit there.

It is Definitely one of those Jobs to do while the engine is out.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2015, 12:05 PM
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The power steering line directly underneath my oil pan had developed a hole in it from rubbing against the battery cable down there. After repairing the cable, I tried to patch the PS line with J-B Weld, but that was a complete waste of time. So I cleaned it back up and took a small piece of high-pressure hydraulic hose, cut a slit in it lengthwise, and slipped it over the line. I then rotated it so the slit was on the opposite side of the line from the hole. I tightened it down with two small hose clamps, and that seems to hold okay.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2015, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
You can buy the factory hose, or,

http://forums.tccoa.com/992-suspensi...ring-line.html

RwP
I found that entire move to convert as a complete waste of time. I leaked constantly and a lot of research turned up that you shouldn't use traditional SS braided hose for this purpose.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1992 Ford Thunderbird SC

Coast High Peformance 347 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.27 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
M5R2
Burned Chip for SN95 T4M0 ECM
OMGHI2U

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2015, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaddMartigan View Post
I found that entire move to convert as a complete waste of time. I leaked constantly and a lot of research turned up that you shouldn't use traditional SS braided hose for this purpose.
You're not supposed to use traditional SS braided hose, the writeup specifically says to use a high pressure hose, which are rated up to 2500 PSI, well above the max pressure the power steering pump generates

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2015, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
You're not supposed to use traditional SS braided hose, the writeup specifically says to use a high pressure hose, which are rated up to 2500 PSI, well above the max pressure the power steering pump generates

Aeroquip TFE Racing Hose FCC0603 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
I'll go with you on that part but the leaks I suffered were all at the fittings. I would definitely look at doing this once we can't get new hoses but right now that's not the case.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1992 Ford Thunderbird SC

Coast High Peformance 347 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.27 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
M5R2
Burned Chip for SN95 T4M0 ECM
OMGHI2U

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2015, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Well I looked at it again... I see where one could possibly use cut down wrenches near the oil filter area, but still there is very little room. Add rust and my luck and I for see problems lol.

Got me thinking tho, how hard would it be to drop the subframe? Even though that sounds a little drastic, it might be easier in a way.

Looks like if I unbolted / disconnected the power steering lines, steering shaft, motor mounts, bottom shock bolts, and lower ball joint to spindle connection that I could just drop the whole thing??

Would obviously hold the motor up with a bar across the shock towers and chains or something.

1995 T-bird 4.6l - Eibach lowering springs, Cobra R hood, One 12" sub woofer, Alpine type-R front speakers. 16.249 @85.11mph 1/4 mile
2001 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 - Cam, headers, HPtuned by me.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2015, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David_viny View Post
Well I looked at it again... I see where one could possibly use cut down wrenches near the oil filter area, but still there is very little room. Add rust and my luck and I for see problems lol.

Got me thinking tho, how hard would it be to drop the subframe? Even though that sounds a little drastic, it might be easier in a way.

Looks like if I unbolted / disconnected the power steering lines, steering shaft, motor mounts, bottom shock bolts, and lower ball joint to spindle connection that I could just drop the whole thing??

Would obviously hold the motor up with a bar across the shock towers and chains or something.
I just replaced the whole rack on my car last week. it takes a little bit of doing but mostly because the bolts are so tight. if you have access to a torch to heat the nuts on the rack through the subframe it will be relatively pain free to just pull the rack out a bit to repair it. It really helps to have a lift for it but I suppose it could be done on the ground. Once those bolts are off you can pull the rack forward a bit and access the lines at that point, it makes it substantially easier

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