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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-16-2015, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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Front Strut Rod Idea

Has anyone replaced the front strut rod rubber bushing with a large Heim Joint? You would need to make a cross bar to mount it, but it would be a secure, safe option that would give the positive location of the urethane bushings without the danger.

Just a thought.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-16-2015, 10:34 AM
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I don't think anyone's done it yet...but there's a k-member you can buy that allows you to run a-arms, thus eliminating the need for the strut rod.

I'm surprised no one's come up with a revised strut rod that uses a ball joint or different bushing at the front. Seems as though it would be a pretty easy modification with an adapter of some sort.

Check out the front end of the new Mustang, Fusions, BMW 3-series, etc. etc. they're using a straight LCA just like ours, with a strut rod (radius arm or torque arm, tension strut, I think is what they're being referred to now) and a control arm style bushing at the front where it meets the frame. The bushings are actually pressed into the arm, so it looks like it would be a simpler and cheaper repair than having to drop the LCA's and remove the whole strut rod etc.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-16-2015, 12:40 PM
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You're not the first person to ask this, and you won't be the last..

Check this thread out-->>Spitballing a strutrod idea






Rayo..

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-16-2015, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Rayo View Post
You're not the first person to ask this, and you won't be the last..

Check this thread out-->>Spitballing a strutrod idea






Rayo..

Thanks for the link!

The biggest reason for not doing something like this seems to be ride harshness.

I asked about the idea because of my experience with my BMW E34 M5 (now sold). The front suspension on the E34 was similar to the MN12's, except it had MacPherson struts and the strut-rod runs to the rear of the vehicle instead of toward the front. With the BMW setup, the bushings in the strut-rod were always an issue, sometimes even causing a serious vibration.

Like many others, I replaced these bushings with a spherical joint. There was little difference in the ride harshness, but there was a significant difference in the feeling in the front end.

Hmmm.....
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-16-2015, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ProTouring442 View Post
I asked about the idea because of my experience with my BMW E34 M5 (now sold). The front suspension on the E34 was similar to the MN12's, except it had MacPherson struts and the strut-rod runs to the rear of the vehicle instead of toward the front. With the BMW setup, the bushings in the strut-rod were always an issue, sometimes even causing a serious vibration.
.
Let me guess, a serious vibration on light braking?

I've always had a fondness for E30s, E34s and E32s, but an E34 M5...damn...you lucky dog. Throwing star wheels too?
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-16-2015, 03:20 PM
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The issue with rod ends is two fold

A. Geometry. The way I've seen this done on cars like Vintage Mustangs and others with SRBs is to use an adapter mounted in place of the bushing for the rod end to bolt to and pivot. Doing this alters the arc the LCA takes, now whether this will cause adverse effects(handling problems or premature wear of the remaining bushings on the LCA).

B. The implementation. Most cars that have had this mod do away with the factory strut rods completely and replace them with straight threaded rod for the joint to thread into. These cars don't have straight rods though, they are kinked in order to clear the steering linkage, use straight rod and you'll have catastrophic results. It's possible the stock rods can be drilled and tapped to accept a threaded rod end but I'm not super comfortable removing that much material from a 20 year old piece of cast steel.

-Matt
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-16-2015, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 96beaterbird View Post
Let me guess, a serious vibration on light braking?

I've always had a fondness for E30s, E34s and E32s, but an E34 M5...damn...you lucky dog. Throwing star wheels too?
Yeah, vibration while braking.

It was a '93 in a burgundy color (I forget the name). It was one of only a couple imported in the color. And yes, throwing stars. Loved the car. Lots of fun. I bought it in Loveland, CO and drove it back to the Knoxville, TN area. That was a fun trip!

After owning it for 4 or so years, it was time to either get down and dirty in a rebuild, or let it go and build something else. So I passed it on and bought the Thunderbird.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-16-2015, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
The issue with rod ends is two fold

A. Geometry. The way I've seen this done on cars like Vintage Mustangs and others with SRBs is to use an adapter mounted in place of the bushing for the rod end to bolt to and pivot. Doing this alters the arc the LCA takes, now whether this will cause adverse effects(handling problems or premature wear of the remaining bushings on the LCA).
I've seen these, I think Global West sells a version. I want to alter the mounting area so the pivot point is in the same place as the original.

Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6
B. The implementation. Most cars that have had this mod do away with the factory strut rods completely and replace them with straight threaded rod for the joint to thread into. These cars don't have straight rods though, they are kinked in order to clear the steering linkage, use straight rod and you'll have catastrophic results. It's possible the stock rods can be drilled and tapped to accept a threaded rod end but I'm not super comfortable removing that much material from a 20 year old piece of cast steel.
I was thinking of using thick walled steel tubing, bent at the correct angle, with a bung on the one end for the joint. Instead of a Heim, I was thinking I would use Currie's Johnny Joint, or the one another member posted above.

Thanks!
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