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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-17-2015, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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Rear knuckle bushings

So when I went to get an alignment, I was told my rear upper control arm to knuckle bushing was too worn out and needed replacement, as well as rear upper control arm to frame bushing was "nearly worn out".

So I found the bushings on RockAuto, but would these work?
Energy Suspension 4 3163G Rear Control Arm Bushings Fit Ford Thunderbird | eBay

Are these even the right ones?
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-18-2015, 07:53 AM
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That's the right part number, but the wrong picture, for the parts you want.

Although they DO say it may not be the right image ...

I ordered mine from Energy Suspension 4.3163 - Rear Control Arm Bushings (spindle position only). Energy Suspension ENE-4.3163G .

RwP
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-18-2015, 09:07 AM
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Be sure to read this about the rear UCA - subframe bushings.

http://forums.tccoa.com/44-suspensio...-bushings.html
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-18-2015, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodman View Post
So when I went to get an alignment, I was told my rear upper control arm to knuckle bushing was too worn out and needed replacement, as well as rear upper control arm to frame bushing was "nearly worn out".

So I found the bushings on RockAuto, but would these work?
Energy Suspension 4 3163G Rear Control Arm Bushings Fit Ford Thunderbird | eBay

Are these even the right ones?
Guy's he's not looking for the ones that go into the aluminum spindle, he needs the INNER one that connects the UCA to the IRS subframe. For those, I would highly recommend getting the Raybestos ones, as they have the correct inner-portion that rotates to provide eccentricity control. I ordered mine from Amazon, but you can get them from Rock Auto, so long as they didn't package some other manufacturer's bushing in a Raybestos box.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-18-2015, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jco1385 View Post
Be sure to read this about the rear UCA - subframe bushings.

http://forums.tccoa.com/44-suspensio...-bushings.html
Thank you, I removed the Moog part from my Rock Auto cart and put the AC-Delco part in instead.
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-18-2015, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
That's the right part number, but the wrong picture, for the parts you want.

Although they DO say it may not be the right image ...

I ordered mine from Energy Suspension 4.3163 - Rear Control Arm Bushings (spindle position only). Energy Suspension ENE-4.3163G .

RwP
Thank you!
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-18-2015, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by guitar maestro View Post
Guy's he's not looking for the ones that go into the aluminum spindle, he needs the INNER one that connects the UCA to the IRS subframe. For those, I would highly recommend getting the Raybestos ones, as they have the correct inner-portion that rotates to provide eccentricity control. I ordered mine from Amazon, but you can get them from Rock Auto, so long as they didn't package some other manufacturer's bushing in a Raybestos box.
Actually, the one to the spindle is also worn out, so I will be getting all three spindle bushings as well as the arm to frame one. I didn't see the Raybestos one on RockAuto, but they do have the AC Delco that is supposedly the correct design.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-18-2015, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
That's the right part number, but the wrong picture, for the parts you want.

Although they DO say it may not be the right image ...

I ordered mine from Energy Suspension 4.3163 - Rear Control Arm Bushings (spindle position only). Energy Suspension ENE-4.3163G .

RwP
$44 for the whole set...damn, I wish I saw that a couple months ago when I paid $60 at Napa for one upper bushing!
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-18-2015, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Woodman View Post
So when I went to get an alignment, I was told my rear upper control arm to knuckle bushing was too worn out and needed replacement, as well as rear upper control arm to frame bushing was "nearly worn out".
Quote:
Originally Posted by guitar maestro View Post
Guy's he's not looking for the ones that go into the aluminum spindle, he needs the INNER one that connects the UCA to the IRS subframe.
Also, GM. Not instead of.

RwP

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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-18-2015, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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Guys, guys, be nice. You've both been very helpful!
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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So I'm going to order the rear knuckle bushings from Energy Suspension. I'm sure I'll understand more as I take the rear upper control arm out to replace it's bushings as well, but once the upper control arm is off, can I just remove the knuckle and replace the bushings or do I need something more than a jack under the rear lower control arm to hold the spring in place?
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 11:54 AM
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Can't answer your question (besides I think its already been answered) But I can say the parts are for a really awesome car! hehe
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
Also, GM. Not instead of.

RwP
Shut up Ralph!
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
That's the right part number, but the wrong picture, for the parts you want.

Although they DO say it may not be the right image ...

I ordered mine from Energy Suspension 4.3163 - Rear Control Arm Bushings (spindle position only). Energy Suspension ENE-4.3163G .

RwP

Can I be the noob to ask if these fit on a 97 cougar aswell? I want to assume they do however on the energy suspension parts.Com site it only lists the thunderbird as an applicable fitting.
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MerkCougar View Post
Can I be the noob to ask if these fit on a 97 cougar aswell? I want to assume they do however on the energy suspension parts.Com site it only lists the thunderbird as an applicable fitting.
The aluminum knuckles are identical.
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 06:06 PM
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So I'm SOL when it comes to the poly then? Dang itt. So I'm a have to purchase from scp then I assume?
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 06:31 PM
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So I'm SOL when it comes to the poly then? Dang itt. So I'm a have to purchase from scp then I assume?
The Knuckle in the rear is the same as the mark 8; the mark 8 lower control arm bushings are different. They're at the frame.

That's the poly knuckle bushings I bought and installed.

There's a hole drilled on the opposite side, tapped, with a zerk fitting for grease; it goes thru the poly to the metal sleeve.
Poly squeaks without grease.
Make sure it can't hit during the full stroke.

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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 09:02 PM
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So I'm SOL when it comes to the poly then? Dang itt. So I'm a have to purchase from scp then I assume?
Umm ...

If the Cougar and Thunderbird (And Mark VIII!) knuckles are identical, why would you be SOL?

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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 09:07 PM
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I didn't understand exactly what was different. I thought because the arm was different that the knuckle would be. Which is why I mentioned I'm a noob just trying to learn so I know exactly what I'm buying and exactly where and how it fits. I'm not trying to waste anyone's time.

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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-25-2015, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by MerkCougar View Post
I didn't understand exactly what was different. I thought because the arm was different that the knuckle would be. Which is why I mentioned I'm a noob just trying to learn so I know exactly what I'm buying and exactly where and how it fits. I'm not trying to waste anyone's time.
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The aluminum knuckles are identical.
For the knuckles, nothing. Well, there's the drum/disc variance - not all drum brake knuckles have the disc brake bracket holes drilled out. Easy to fix, though. So, same bushings work on both.

I'm not sure why you thought you'd be SOL since, as GM said, the knuckles are identical. Again, save for the lack of holes in some of the drum brake knuckles ... same bushings, though, either way.

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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-25-2015, 01:55 AM
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I thought when he said aluminum knuckles are the same meant that only an aluminum set is a direct swap but not the polys. For some reason I have to read and reread what I research on here in order for me to understand. I'm fairly new to the inner workings of vehicles. I'm only mechanically savvy with firearms.

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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-25-2015, 10:24 AM
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*blink*

They don't make a poly knuckle.

They DO make poly knuckle bushings, which fit the aluminum knuckles.

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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-25-2015, 04:52 PM
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See. I know I'm just bothering you and sounding dumb. The knuckle itself is aluminum, the bushing which is the spindle position only is what would be poly. Maybe I could be a good laugh for someone.

BTW merry Christmas all.

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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-25-2015, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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I'll ask again since the discussion got a little sidetracked...

I have seen some videos and instructions on removing the upper control arm (my lower control arm bushings are in good shape, uppers aren't). So since I'll have the upper out, replacing the knuckle to upper control arm bushing should be fairly simple.

My question is, the knuckle to lower control arm bushings, can I just pop the knuckle off while the upper is out of the way, and swap out the bushings, or is it going to be a royal pain? Will I need a spring compressor or will having a jack underneath the lower control arm be sufficient?
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-25-2015, 07:10 PM
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The easiest way to dink with the knuckle is to put an extra stand under the LCA to keep the arm from dropping down too far, tie the brake caliper up after you yank it off, and pull all three bolts at the knuckle, grab, and pull.

You'll have the knuckle and axle shaft assembly; you don't need to pull the axle bolt unless you're doing bearings.

A flat screwdriver might be needed to pop the axle out of the diff, but I never have needed one.

That way you can put the whole thing in the bench vice and replace the bushings there; makes it a lot easier.
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-25-2015, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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The easiest way to dink with the knuckle is to put an extra stand under the LCA to keep the arm from dropping down too far, tie the brake caliper up after you yank it off, and pull all three bolts at the knuckle, grab, and pull.

You'll have the knuckle and axle shaft assembly; you don't need to pull the axle bolt unless you're doing bearings.

A flat screwdriver might be needed to pop the axle out of the diff, but I never have needed one.

That way you can put the whole thing in the bench vice and replace the bushings there; makes it a lot easier.
Thank you! Needed an excuse to buy a vise anyway.
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-27-2015, 11:34 PM
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If you leave the shock attached, there's no need for the jack or stand under the LCA while you pull the knuckle.
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-28-2015, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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If you leave the shock attached, there's no need for the jack or stand under the LCA while you pull the knuckle.
Thanks! I'll probably leave it there to make re installation of the UCA a little easier. I'm sure I'll understand it better once i have the parts and put the car in the air. It's easier seeing it with my own eyes vs. watching a video or looking at a diagram.
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