Would you say that 1/8" thicker than the insulator would be perfect? Or should it be slightly thicker than that still? If so, how much thicker should it be than the insulators?
1/8" is probably fine; sport springs are pressing down at about 500lbs/in of compression, so they are not moving around easily. I'm probably just paranoid, but it makes me feel better on the curvys.
Looking at the pic I took of my LCAs, I see that the bolt would be going through the bottom upwards based on what you're saying here. How big of washers did you use? What material did you use for the washer(s)? Or did you use a bolt with a really wide head?
Yes, from the bottom, thru the hole.
I have pix, but I'll be damned if I can find them.
I need to reboot my server; it's not serving, lol.
I used a washer and lockwasher, with the Thick washer big enough to overlap the hole ~1/4".
I'll post up the McMaster partnumbers I bought when I find the pix.
What about corrosion? Can you mix steel and aluminum together and and not worry about corrosion or other metal to metal degradation. I'm thinking of something similar to how copper degrades galvanized steel if they're both touching each other in home plumbing? Or are the bolts you used plated with Zinc or something?
The reason I wanted to use aluminum bolts was based on this. That was really funny, don't bother doing that. The spring is WAY stronger than the shear on the Al bolts.
As long as the lockwasher keeps everything 'galvanically connected', it won't rust.
The bolts I bought do have a yellow coating; I would say it's chromate, but I doubt it, chromate is banned in a lot of places, CA being one, IIRC.
Do not use stainless, as stainless rusts Everything else. And it's weaker.
Paint the parts before, then paint the gouges the lockwasher leaves, and it should last forever.
I did my LCA's in transparent blue, they look really cool. But the only people that have seen them are either here, when the pix were up, or the few people that have had my car on a lift, lol.
The guys that did my dual exhaust were impressed.
Oh, and to clean the aluminum LCAs, get some "Etching Mag Cleaner" for aluminum wheels, pull the bushings, and on a hot sunny day spray them down, use a brush to scrub it, give it 15 minutes, rinse a repeat a couple of times, then they'll be pristine.
Public safety notice:
Be careful with mag cleaner around the kids.
It's a pretty nasty mix of acids, sometimes with some HF, so gloves and goggles are important.
HF doesn't leave scars, but it eats calcium, which your heart needs to beat; that's the real problem with it.
HF is HydroFloric Acid, it eats glass, bone, and almost everything else you care about.
After having read both here on TCCoA and the FB TCCoA page that doing the toe compensator delete mod is a hit or miss, I've decided to play it safe and buy new toe compensators just to avoid any possible issues.
Lazarus is non-typical; it was totaled by being hit in the right rear QP, then frame straightened, restored, and has been beaten on heavily ever since, so the rear mounts may be bent from what you guys see. IDK.
Hell, I broke three wheels on that car, including the RR one that rubbed after the swap, thinking about it. (Stuck throttle)