New tie rod end (inner) - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-24-2016, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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New tie rod end (inner)

My poor old '95 Cougar needs a new inner tie rod end to pass inspection (along with a whole host of other goodies). Is there anything unusual to watch out for/make sure of when I do this replacement? I bought a brand new Moog replacement part, and it looks every bit as beefy as the original.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 06:31 AM
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Then I don't think you have anything to worry about!

How's the outer tie rod, is that ready too?

One thing I noticed with mine. The replacement had a rivet to install that helps hold it to the rack, where the original didn't. Also the original might have the rivet where the replacement won't.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 06:47 AM
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Sometimes they have a allen-type set screw instead of a rivet. I funds ain't tight I'd go ahead and consider doing the whole front end (control arms ball joints) or at least all the tie rods.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 07:05 AM
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When you unthread the inner tie rod from the outer, mark where the nut is. Ideally, buy a new nut to thread on the inner (the jam nut that holds the two tie rods tight).

Thread the nut on the new on to as far from the inside as the old one was; that way you're close on alignment and can drive the car to the alignment shop to get it aligned.

(Better: New outer tie rod, adjust for the same inner-flat-to-outer-stud as the old pair.)

Moog's bellows suck. You'll be replacing those inside of a couple of years.

RwP

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 09:43 AM
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Agreed, either reuse your stock ones or buy FORD, they're still available - E69Z-3332-A

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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OK, thanks, fellas. I think all the others are at least OK, and I'm only worried about doing the absolute minimum to get the car to pass inspection right now. I can replace other parts later, as needed. This Moog unit did not come with a bellows, and I didn't think to order one either. There is a loose rivet in the packaging, but I have no idea what it's for yet.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 10:12 PM
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Count how many revolutions it takes to unscrew the outer tie rod end, then screw it back on the same number of turns, then get it aligned.

Hardest part is getting a big enough wrench to take it off. I use a big honkin crescent wrench myself, and it'll be on there good.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-27-2016, 07:41 AM
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There's a hole in the large end that screws on the rack. After you tighten that end down take a hammer and tap that rivet into the hole. It keeps it from unscrewing.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-27-2016, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by steamer471 View Post
There's a hole in the large end that screws on the rack. After you tighten that end down take a hammer and tap that rivet into the hole. It keeps it from unscrewing.
Excellent. Thanks a bunch.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-29-2016, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Yesterday I discovered that Moog has provided a new jam nut with the tie rod end, so that's a nice touch, I think. My largest crescent wrench is not very big at all, so I'll probably snatch an 8" or 10", and get this baby done.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-29-2016, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by MntnLion View Post
Yesterday I discovered that Moog has provided a new jam nut with the tie rod end, so that's a nice touch, I think. My largest crescent wrench is not very big at all, so I'll probably snatch an 8" or 10", and get this baby done.
Take your new one in to the hardware store, get the appropriate sized combination wrench. Will work much better.

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2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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Take your new one in to the hardware store, get the appropriate sized combination wrench. Will work much better.
Well, I have a decent small set of combination wrenches, but was concerned I may not be able to apply sufficient torque with them, as they're pretty short. I guess I could slip a pipe over one end for increased leverage. I'll have to give this some thought. Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 02:39 PM
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I am curious how they found the inner tie rod bad. Did they disconnect from the spindle to see how loose they were.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by MntnLion View Post
Well, I have a decent small set of combination wrenches, but was concerned I may not be able to apply sufficient torque with them, as they're pretty short. I guess I could slip a pipe over one end for increased leverage. I'll have to give this some thought. Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it.
It'll be a biggun.

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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I am curious how they found the inner tie rod bad. Did they disconnect from the spindle to see how loose they were.
No, actually I've known it was bad for quite some time, I just never got around to replacing it. I only know/suspect it will fail, as I downloaded the inspection criteria from the Mo Highway Patrol website. It fairly clearly states that bad suspension parts of that sort, will be sufficient cause for failing the car.
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by MntnLion View Post
No, actually I've known it was bad for quite some time, I just never got around to replacing it. I only know/suspect it will fail, as I downloaded the inspection criteria from the Mo Highway Patrol website. It fairly clearly states that bad suspension parts of that sort, will be sufficient cause for failing the car.
They're really easy to replace, along with the outer. I did both sides on my car recently because the driver side was failing (also did both front hubs at same time, and rear knuckle bushings and rear upper control arm to frame bushing). My idea is, if one is failing, the other is probably not far behind.

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2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-31-2016, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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They're really easy to replace, along with the outer. I did both sides on my car recently because the driver side was failing (also did both front hubs at same time, and rear knuckle bushings and rear upper control arm to frame bushing). My idea is, if one is failing, the other is probably not far behind.
That makes perfect sense to me, and is probably correct. After car is licensed again, I have every intention of slowly starting to add replacement parts. It's likely I'll be driving this old beast for a very long time, so keeping it functioning well, seems like a pretty good plan.

The car was actually quite nice looking when I first got it, but man has it taken a beating since then.
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