Power Steering Help - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Power Steering Help

So today I started my Coyote engine for the first time, had a couple leaks, but was able to fix them right away. I let the car run for 10 minutes to get to operating temp and starting to see some steam coming from the rack and power steering reservoir. I went under the car and the rack was super HOT. after checking the rack I noticed the lines were starting to get really soft. I turned the car off and the next thing I know the return line melted off the rack. Fluid everywhere. I filled it up with ATF trans fluid. Turning the steering wheel was stiff, didn't feel like power steering at all. Not sure what I did what I did wrong. This was a rack from the Rack Doctor as well. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks guys,

Josh

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Last edited by OxmanWI; 07-10-2016 at 06:52 PM.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a picture of what I did with the hose routing:


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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 07:27 PM
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What style pump are you using and how is it arraigned?

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 07:32 PM
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What kind of lines and fittings?

-Matt
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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The pump is a brand new Motorcraft for the Thunderbird 4.6. I used the same high pressure set up from your write up Matt. Low pressure on top and high pressure on bottom.


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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 08:10 PM
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Where's the heat coming from? Is the power steering the original from the Thunderbird, or is it Coyote specific?

Is the pump spinning the correct direction?

I'm not sure what would generate that much heat to melt the high pressure line on power steering fluid. That just doesn't make sense to me.

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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I don't know honesty...

Yes this is a Tbird rack from the rack doctor. The pump is basicly the same pump in the 96-04 Mustang GT's. I have brackets that other guys are using to mate the pump in the stock position. So the pump should be going in the correct direction. The low pressure return line melted.

I was able to remove the rack tonight, and I missed that this line was damaged. Must have happened during shipping to me. Maybe this is the problem?


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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OxmanWI View Post
The pump is a brand new Motorcraft for the Thunderbird 4.6. I used the same high pressure set up from your write up Matt. Low pressure on top and high pressure on bottom.

Did you shave the threads of the blue adapter fitting on the pump side? There is an orifice in the middle of the threads on the pump that would be blocked by the adapter fitting if left unmodified.

-Matt
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't shave anything off the blue fitting, but I drove the car with my old 2V set up with the same line and fitting in the past and never had a problem.


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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry I messed up, I thought you were talking about the blue fitting at the rack. I have a silver fitting on the pump.


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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 10:57 PM
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That's the incorrect fitting for the pump, they should be the same adapter at either end(just with the aforementioned cut threads on the pump one) using the Teflon seal at the flange area. That O-ring at the end effectively does nothing since that's not how the pump seals. That particular fitting would also block the oriface in the pump threads when fully seated.

-Matt
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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Well shit, how did I end up with the silver fitting? Summit must have sent me the wrong one back in the day when I followed your write up. I was supposed to get two blue Russel 670530

So with this wrong fitting and a kinked line, the pump is trying to push fluid (watermelon through a garden hose) and that is what caused a stiff turn on the wheel and heating up and melting the return line?



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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 11:44 PM
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The hole may be bigger in the one but both should be no smaller than -6 AN, which is what the ID of the hose is. I ran a similar fitting by mistake initially but my issue was with longterm sealing due to the improper flange and not overheating or anything functional. I still think the core issue is the blocked oriface in the pump threads.
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-11-2016, 07:27 AM
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Did you remember to prime the Power Steering Pump before you started the car?







Rayo..

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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-11-2016, 08:22 AM
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When I got my most recent Rack Doctor unit the lines were bent as well. Some of it may be from shipping, but it looks like he uses whatever he has that comes in on cores. I just swapped my tubes over to the 'new' unit.



When I rebuilt my Cougar, I decided to buy a magnetic inline filter with a screen. I also upgraded the cooler and put in a Rack Doctor unit. Somehow I ended up with a bit of sand in the cooler (nofa king idea??) and the screen on the filter clogged up. The pump was loud and I had zero assist. Before I could shut the car off it blew the seams on the B&M plate cooler. I guess the moral is that a filter is a good addition to the system.

Hope you get it figured out soon!
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayo View Post
Did you remember to prime the Power Steering Pump before you started the car?







Rayo..
Before starting the car, I put fluid in the reservoir and turned the pulley by hand. That cause air bubbles to escape from the reservoir. Added more fluid. Turned the steering wheel lock to lock and once more turned the pulley by hand before starting. Once I started it turned the wheels again lock to lock and added more fluid after a couple starts. Let me know if I missed something.

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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 08:39 AM
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I don't see a problem with the way you primed the pump..

I know some coolers have to be hooked up a certain way..
The fluid will only flow into the INLET tube, then out of the OUTLET tube..It won't work the other way around..

I would try running it without the power steering cooler temporarily..
Basically just loop the lines that would go into the cooler..






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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Yea the the cooler is original with the car. It's in great shape. I blew some compressed air in both ports and the lines, they didn't have any blockage.

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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 11:59 AM
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I think the heat must have come from the kinked line.

1995 T-Bird.
PI 4.6. Bullitt intake. Stage 2 MHS cams. Kooks Headers. 4,200 ATF Speed converter. BCA Transmission. 4:10s. Tune by Supercoupes Unlimited. 245 RWHP.
3,700 lbs at half tank. Goal- 3,400 lbs
Best of 13.85 at 96 mph. Goal- 11's NA

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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So today I replaced the line and bought a stock high pressure line from the part store. I did a loop to bypass the cooler for now. Started up and power steering! No whine and the steering wheel turns like butter. I ordered another blue fitting, I missed the part about have to grind down the threads. So I'm guessing the kinked line and the non shaved blue fitting was the culprit.

The only thing that I see might be a issue, but could be normal. The fluid in the reservoir splashes around in there. I don't ever remember it being like that, could be wrong.

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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OxmanWI View Post
... I ordered another blue fitting, I missed the part about have to grind down the threads. So I'm guessing the kinked line and the non shaved blue fitting was the trouble.

The only thing that I see might be a issue, but could be normal. The fluid in the reservoir splashes around in there. I don't ever remember it being like that, could be wrong.
When I threaded the blue fitting in too far/didn't shave the length, it ruined the pump.

I hope yours is ok.

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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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Yea it's fine, I've been datalogging with livelink with it running and turning the wheel every now and then. Turns nice and smooth.

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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 06:21 PM
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That's sweet. So how much easier is it to pull the steering rack with the tubular K?

1995 T-Bird.
PI 4.6. Bullitt intake. Stage 2 MHS cams. Kooks Headers. 4,200 ATF Speed converter. BCA Transmission. 4:10s. Tune by Supercoupes Unlimited. 245 RWHP.
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Best of 13.85 at 96 mph. Goal- 11's NA

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1997 Lincoln Mark VIII FX2 Sand Dune Machine- R.I.P.
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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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The car is still on jacks. I'm sure it's no different then the stock k member.

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