How do you retrieve Mark VIII air ride codes? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-07-2017, 05:42 AM Thread Starter
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How do you retrieve Mark VIII air ride codes?

Also are the solenoids replaceable?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 08:09 AM
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The solenoids are replaceable, you can find them on the internet pretty easy usually around $50. As far as getting actual codes you need a very expensive star tester and its honestly not worth it. There is a test sequence you can run to help pin point your problems. What is the car doing?
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 08:13 AM
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Here is information on the test you can run...

How can I test the Air Ride Function?

You can use a EEC-IV code scanner to run an automated test sequence on the air ride system.

1. Turn ignition on
2. Unplug test plug
3. Plug in reader
4. Flip switch to TEST
5. Tests run automatically

From a post by ekooke, here is the order of testing:

LF solenoid clicked open/close
RF solenoid clicked open/close
Rear solenoids clicked open/close
Compressor vent valve clicked
Compressor ran for a few seconds then shut off

Then the system did a height sensor test:
Compressor turned on, front valves clicked, and the front of car rose, valves clicked then the same thing(s) happened for the rear and the rear rose
Compressor turned off AND; vent valve clicked
Front solenoids clicked & front lowered
Rear solenoids clicked & rear lowered
There was a little clicking after that, but nothing noticeable happened (maybe vent valve).

Original thread here:
Thread about using code reader to test Air Ride

NOTE: There's really no output to the scanner; when the testing hits a fault, it just stops at that point. The operator monitoring the KNOWN testing sequence is what identifies the fault.
If you don't have access to a code reader, user "billcu" posted the following:
If you hold the connector with the open end of the plug facing you, the top row of terminals (from left to right) are pins 1, 2, 3, 4.
The bottom row are 5 and 6.

The wire color for pin 2 is W/LB.

Turn the key on, close the door, connect the test light from pin 2 to battery ground, and let the fun begin!
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
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my car is having some random function's. some nights it will hold position all night, I will start it and it's fine. some nights hold position, start it and the front drops. some times the front drops as soon as I shut off. I have seen it overfill the rear and drop the front. Also seen it overfill all 4 corners. sometimes I get an air ride code while driving (compressor not running) and the car is at normal height.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 10:11 PM
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OK my car had the same kind of issues. My first thought was to replace both front bags. To my surprise I still had the same problems including the front end and rear dropping randomly, sometimes it sat like a monster truck, other times the front or rear would be too high, even had where the car would sit higher on the right side. Turns out the compressor vent had seized and the excess pressure that the car couldn't vent caused a small leak in my dryer. SO it sounded like the vent was working but it wasnt releasing air fast enough so the computer never thought the car was vented correctly and would stop at all random heights. Then to try and level itself out it would jack up the front and back to level out and couldn't vent out then it would sit at random heights. So that maybe your problem.

There is a couple ways to diagnose your car.

The First way is to turn the key on and off enough to get your car to ride height. Then turn the air ride switch off. You now took the whole system with the exception of the bags out of the loop. Now drive around for a while. If a bag is in pretty sorry shape the car will drop in the front or rear or at the very least will be noticably lower. Now atleast you know where to look. If its the front its usually the passenger side bag. Replace that then when it eventually drops again you can do the drivers side. Or buy both for 350 at autozone. If it drops in the rear buy both bags made by Westar on ebay for about $100.

The Second way is to cycle the key on and off until the car is at ride height. A good system will fill in 1-2 key cycles from laying totally on the ground. Now roll the drivers window down turn the key off get out and close the door. Go under the hood and hook up the jumper cable to the test port like I outlined in the other post reach through the window and turn the key on. If the car raises both the front and back and the test suddenly stops your compressor vent is bad like mine was.

Now the good news you can get a compressor off ebay for about $80 brand new, the company I got it from was Car Parts wholesale. Its Probably Chinese or Japanese made but so far its lasted 3 months with no issues. If you want you can send your original out ot be rebuilt for $250 by Eddie. Next the rear bags were $100 new and made by Westar I got them off eBay too. The front bags were the trick. If you sign up your email on Autozone's website they send you a 20% off coupon the same day usually. Now you can order a pair of New Westar front struts for $350. All Westar bags have a lifetime warranty. The only issue is the bottom bolt hole in the strut that attaches to the control arm is slightly smaller than it should be. I took the bolt to Lowes Hardware and got a drill bit that was slightly larger and drilled out the hole in the strut. They've never given me any trouble and have lasted a long time. Not to mention they ride great.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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ok thanks, may go the compressor route. I hate to put too much money into it since the car was bought for $400 with the intent being to drive it until something major happens then yank the motor and the rear end but $80 isn't getting too deep.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 04:34 PM
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Ill be honest, you can put well over 200k on these cars so dont sweat it. Also if you think about it $175 for a strut, spring, and mount really isnt much, and thats what youre buying when you get the air strut.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Car is getting parted out if anybody needs anything
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 09:13 PM
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I realize this thread is rather dead... but I wanted to post this info here since I had to go to the web archive to find it initially. It's also something I have found quite useful, having gone out of my way to get the Rotunda Super Star II tester to pinpoint diagnose my air suspension issues.

I take no credit in the info - it's from the old American Air Suspension website, before it got sold off to profiteers. I have added some info to help clarify the procedures...

Retrieving and Clearing DTCs on the Lincoln Mark VIII
Using a Rotunda Super Star II Tester
________________________________________
ATTENTION
BEFORE TRYING TO RETRIEVE ANY CODES IN THE SYSTEM, YOU MAY WANT TO HAVE THE BATTERY & CHARGING SYSTEM CHECKED. A WEAK BATTERY WILL CAUSE ALL SORTS OF PROBLEMS IN THE AIR SUSPENSION. AUTOZONE AND A FEW OTHER AUTO PARTS STORES WILL USUALLY DO THIS FOR FREE.
________________________________________
Function Test Procedure
#1) Open hood and locate diagnostic connector on front of RH front shock tower (This connector is on the pass. side shock tower and will usually have a black cap reading "SUSP/EVO").
#2) Install battery charger to provide power during testing.
NOTE: If you have a bad battery (weak cell), you may still experience problems during this test even though you have the battery charger on the vehicle.
#3) Open luggage compartment and ensure air suspension switch is OFF.
#4) Set Super Star II Tester mode switch to FAST and set selector switch to EEC/MCU.
#5) Turn Scan Tool power switch on.
#6) Set HOLD/TEST push button in HOLD position (Button is up)
#7) Turn ignition switch to OFF, then ON.
#8) Ensure both doors on vehicle are closed. (the system most likely will not do ANYTHING while the doors are open)
#9) Install Super Star II Tester in diagnostic connector
#10) Press HOLD/TEST button and latch in TEST position (button is down)
Codes for function tests will be displayed one after the other, cycling every few seconds through each item on the list.
When the desired test code number appears, release the HOLD/TEST button, then depress it when you are ready to run the test. The selected action/test will run until you release the HOLD/TEST button again. Press the HOLD/TEST button to resume cycling through the tests on the display.
This is an excellent way to test independent parts of the system and/or perform wiggle tests (this is to power up a part, then "wiggle" the connector in order to find a loose connection and/or bad wire).
It is also the easiest way to test a ride height sensor, by listening for the beep. The closer the beeps are to each other, the closer to trim height you will be. If you don't hear the beeps, or you heard a beep, then it quits, you know you have a bad sensor.

I RECOMMEND PULLING THE CODES (211) OUT OF THE SUSPENSION MODULE MEMORY FIRST BEFORE PERFORMING ANY TESTS!

Test code/description

211=DISPLAY CODE(S) IN MEMORY
212=LF PUMP WITH AUDIBLE SENSOR CHECK
213=LF VENT WITH AUDIBLE SENSOR CHECK
214=RF PUMP WITH AUDIBLE SENSOR CHECK
215=RF VENT WITH AUDIBLE SENSOR CHECK
216=LR PUMP WITH AUDIBLE SENSOR CHECK
217=LR VENT WITH AUDIBLE SENSOR CHECK
218=RR PUMP WITH AUDIBLE SENSOR CHECK
219=RR VENT WITH AUDIBLE SENSOR CHECK
221=COMPRESSOR RUN
222=ACTUATOR(EVO) OUTPUT TEST (toggles all solenoids & actuator)
223=LF HEIGHT SENSOR TRIM DETECTION CHECK (Audible sound)
224=RF HEIGHT SENSOR TRIM DETECTION CHECK (Audible sound)
225=REAR SENSOR TRIM DETECTION CHECK (Audible sound)
226=SPEED SENSOR DETECTION
227=PULSE EVO ACTUATOR
228=ERASE ALL TROUBLE CODES IN MEMORY

Unlatch HOLD/TEST button to end selected test and to continue scrolling through the other codes. Relatch button to re-enter code display function.
________________________________________
SUSPENSION CODES AND POSSIBLE CAUSES

15=NO FAULTS STORED IN MEMORY = Some problems won't set a code
18=MODULE DETECTS LOW BATTERY = Bad battery and/or malfunctioning voltage regulator
19=MODULE DETECTS HIGH BATTERY = Malfunctioning voltage regulator and/or bad battery
20 = MODULE MEMORY ERROR = Maybe a bad module
25=HEIGHT SENSOR POWER NOT 5 VOLTS = Maybe a bad sensor or in the wiring
35=EVO ACTUATOR = EVO actuator disconnected, bad (rare) or in the wiring
45=STEERING SENSOR = Sensor disconnected or bad (rare) or in the wiring
50=LF HEIGHT SENSOR OUT OF RANGE = Maybe a bad sensor or in the wiring
55=RF HEIGHT SENSOR OUT OF RANGE = Maybe a bad sensor or in the wiring
60=REAR HEIGHT SENSOR OUT OF RANGE = Maybe a bad sensor or in the wiring
70=VENT SOLENOID=Maybe a bad compressor vent solenoid or in the wiring
75=COMPRESSOR RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT = Maybe bad relay or in the wiring
80=LF SOLENOID CIRCUIT = Maybe a bad solenoid or in the wiring
85=RF SOLENOID CIRCUIT = Maybe a bad solenoid or in the wiring
90=LR SOLENOID CIRCUIT = Maybe a bad solenoid or in the wiring
95=RR SOLENOID CIRCUIT = Maybe a bad solenoid or in the wiring
98=COMPRESSOR RUN TIME EXCEEDED = Exceeded 90 second time-out
99=UNABLE TO DETECT RAISING OR LOWERING = Clogged dryer or bad vent solenoid

-Brandon
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2018, 09:26 PM
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Good info!

Thanks for posting!!
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