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Best Suspension Package

40K views 232 replies 23 participants last post by  ikutoisahobo 
#1 ·
What is in your opinion the best STREET (not drag strip) performance suspension setup for an MN12?

I'm looking to do my suspension and especially my front end since it needs new lower control arms and probably tie rods and other various bushings (depends what the mechanic finds). I've wanted to do lowering springs (Vogtland) for a while, but at the same time I want some performance benefits too so what shocks do you guys recommend for lowered springs? I know there are Tokico Blues and I believe the KONI options but I'd like to know what you guys recommend through experience. Post your setup too and let me know how it affects the balance.
 
#42 ·
I need rear spring isolators, I don't care if they are OEM, Poly or whatever. I just can't find them on rockauto and the ones at AutoZone and Oreillys are generic parts. Will they still fit/work?

Also the swaybar bushings I want to get are the Moog K90402, dunno what size rear swaybar comes on a 97 V8 regular LX.

Let me know ASAP.
 

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#43 ·
#47 ·
Thanks for the input guys. Also on the swaybar question I had. The tech article on swaybar sizes says a 97 4.6 would have a .96 inch swaybar which translates to 24.38mm. Every rear bushing I see on Rockauto is either 26mm or 27mm or 28mm. I don't want a whole two millimeters of wiggle in my bushing lol...
 
#49 ·
1) Totally agree on the HF caliper. It's a "good enough" tool and mine has stayed alive for 6-7 years now.

2) You do? For I just reused my stock bushing brackets w/ the energy suspension bushings for both my 0.91" and 0.94" OD rear swaybar as the ES supplied bushing doesn't have the tab to latch onto the rear subframe -- just a bolt hole which I assume you mean to suggest adding a nut on the other side. Reusing the stock bushing brackets means you lose the neat grease fitting but it's easy enough to undo the bracket and squirt more grease into it without uninstalling the entire bar in the future (FWIW, entire bar removal isn't hard, either).
 
#50 ·
Yeah I've needed a digital caliper for other things before....I guess I'll get one now, I see coupons on it all the time on the HF website. I don't trust the article either. I'll look into the ES bushings. Can I just use a washer and a nut on the frame side instead of a bracket?
 
#52 ·
ES Sizes
energysuspension.com | Sway Bar & End Link Bushings

For my 0.91" bar I bought 95159G (23mm)
For my 0.94" rear bar I bought 95160G (24mm)

Rockauto carries them (just search by part #) but I think I bought one set from eBay because I got a slightly cheaper price (maybe on a day that they offered 8% back in eBayBucks or had a paypal coupon. I forget).
-g
 
#53 · (Edited)
Okay, so instead of buying the original endlinks I purchased the Energy Suspension ones. I understand they don't have the swivel joint thing. Any problems I'll run into? Is 9.8125 the correct size? So many questions on this swaybar stuff.

Also Moog K90402 apparently for a 27mm rear bar. Nothing makes sense compared to the tech article but I'll assume they're the right size bushings. If someone knows the size of bushing they run or part number for rear swaybar on a 97 V8 please let me know until I can buy a digital caliper.
 

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#54 ·
The ADDCO bars come with end links. - At least the rear one does. - At least the one I ordered years ago came with end links.

Have you already order your bar? Has it arrived? Did it not come with end links?

Cart - Horse ≠ Horse - Cart
 
#57 ·
Well, you know, a ruler and a piece of string, and you can measure the current bar.

Wrap the string around the bar, mark where it overlaps.

Measure the distance between the two marks.

Divide by 3.14 .

That's your diameter.

RwP
 
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#60 · (Edited)
Posted a wanted thread for an Addco 1 1/4. But I'll probably end up buying one from SCP.

Note to everyone. The tech article on rear swaybar sizes is correct for the 97 Thunderbird 4.6. .96 inches or 24.5mm. I checked with the digital caliper I bought just a few hours ago. Don't know why all listed rear swaybar bushings for a TBird are ~27mm. Which is way too big, almost worse than having a worn out bushing on there lol

Also a little progress shot. Got the spring and shock in at one side. The old spring was a b**** to take out with even a compressor, I could only get one compressor on anyways since there's no room to put another one and actually tighten it. Putting the Vogtland was easy without a compressor. I reused the isolator, seemed good enough to me. Noticed the rear toe compensator bushing is squuezing out, it's worn out, but looks like a b**** to take out.
 

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#62 ·
1) I don't recall it being hard to pull springs when the car is at full droop (outer UCA bult disconnected as well.
2) You can pop the rear toe comps out with the rest of the suspension in place. I recently did it. You just disconnect the forward bolt on the inner LCA and do a little prying.
 
#61 ·
Umm ...

You DO know you can compress / swap the spring with the whole assembly off the car, right? In which case, you can use the compressors on both sides, right?

RwP
 
#63 ·
I'm talking about the rear suspension, not the front lol. Sorry, should've been mkre descriptive.


Also, S4Gunn, I didn't unbolt the UCA, didn't even touch it, but I bet that would've helped a crap ton. I might do that on the other side. The toe comps, I think I'll need more detail on those.
 
#64 ·
Oh, when I swapped out my rear springs, I had to disconnect the LCA at the two INTERIOR-most mounting points to be able to get it out. I'm sure some spring compressors would have helped, but the only kind we have at the the shop is a wall mounted one...had to get creative with the 3rd Arms and the lift.
 
#65 ·
I don't know what everyone's problem is with the rear springs. Remove the lower knuckle to control arm bolts, disconnect the sway bar end link, then remove the lower shock bolt while supporting the underside of the control arm with a jack. Next lower the jack to release the spring pressure, use one prybar to push down on the control arm while you use another to pry the spring out.
 
#71 ·
Also got the Energy Suspension endlinks. They're shorter than the original ones but I figured since my car is sitting lower now that it won't be an issue. But the swaybar kinda scrubs on the parking brake cable assembly. Is that normal, I didn't bother noticing if it did that with the stock links.
 

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#74 · (Edited)
It's a Cam bolt, which isn't short for Camber bolt.:tongue:

Most alignment places won't perform 4 wheel alignments on these unless you remind them that they're adjustable back there, and your average non-enthusiast owner usually is oblivious to it as well, so as they rack up miles all the wear and tear is never compensated for, ergo irregular rear tire wear. Spring sag or broken springs will result in camber gain, wearing the inside edge.

Problem is, being in New Jersey, like here in Illinois, this is what you may face if you don't mess with it much...



This is also a reason shops sometimes won't do rear alignments on these, if they're seized up after a lifetime of never being touched, they basically need to carefully grind/cut them out, and even after they do you can't get them new, and used from a junkyard from the same locale won't be any better.

Big shoutout to jco1385 for finding me a set :)
 
#78 ·
Looking for swaybar bushings for the stock rear bar, going with the 24.5mm measurement for the diameter.
Should these work? I don't see why not but maybe you guys know better. They're for a Lancer Evo, but seem like it shouldn't be an issue fitting.
http://superpro.suspension.parts/spf2073-24.5k

Let me know what you guys think.
 

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#83 ·
Looking for swaybar bushings for the stock rear bar, going with the 24.5mm measurement for the diameter.
Should these work? I don't see why not but maybe you guys know better. They're for a Lancer Evo, but seem like it shouldn't be an issue fitting.
SuperPro SPF2073-24.5K Rear Sway Bar Bushings - 24.5mm (0.96 inch). SuperPro SPF2073-24.5K

Let me know what you guys think.
These bushings may not fit the brackets, they appear to be both too short and too wide. Just get the Energy suspensions, they're $20
 
#79 ·
Did you actually measure the sway bar?

Take some twine, wrap it around the bar right by a bushing.

Mark both parts of the twine where it crosses.

Take the twine out, measure the distance between the two marks, divide by 3.14, get the next smallest bushing.

Problem solved.

Also, are the OUTSIDE dimensions compatible with your sway bar brackets? I have no idea if they are or aren't.

RwP
 
#80 ·
Yeah I stated in an earlier reply that I measured it with a digital caliper. 24.577mm and 0.96 inches which matches up with the tech article. My concern was the outside measurements as well, but from the looks of it, it seems fine. Can't seem to find dimensions for the outside. I could just order them and find out I guess....since it seems like no one actually replaced their rear swaybar bushings but instead went the ADDCO route.
 
#81 ·
So I've noticed my rear suspension with the Mark VIII aluminum LCA's rides a little lower than the front. Anyone have a link to the correct spring isolator to put in to give it just a 1/4" or so more lift in the rear?
 
#85 ·
Everyone is recommending the Prothane 6-1709 for the rear isolator. Two sets needed.



Getting a good handle on what I need to do thanks to all of the folks that have posted!!

I do enjoy a fast drive through the curved roads on occasion. 89/95 both will need all new suspension.

Wondering if the factory replacement Tokio adjustable shocks are worth the coin?
Thanks,
Creighton
Some say the ARC Tokico Illuminas are too soft in their comfort setting and they just leave it in the stiff setting. If that's truly the case I'd just get the Tokico HP Blues. I don't think it's worth the coin unless you have an SC and want to retain the feature.
 
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