Rear UCA bushing replacement - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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Rear UCA bushing replacement

96 Cougar. I got my rear UCA to frame bushings last night, the smurf is up on stands and as soon as I get off work I'm going to start replacing them.
Any insight or tips ya'll can share? How to press them out, press the new ones in? Things to look for? etc. thanks

And a side note. I started with Moogs from Rock Auto, still the rubber bonded trash. SCP is the only way to go on these. Thanks Bill.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 10:57 AM
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I took the control arms and new bushings to a shop. Before you remove the control arms look carefully to see exactly where the adjusting bolt is placed. If possible, try not to turn the eccentric so you can take pictures of its position. The idea is to put it back together close to the way it was. Since the car should have the ailment checked after this, check for other worn parts. The toe compensators should be checked. They are available from ACDelco as an "alignment tool". Also, make sure the adjusting eccentrics on the lower control arms are functional and not corroded.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 11:12 AM
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AC delco are the correct ones, I got mine through eBay. The main thing to watch out for is crushing the arm since it's a simple C channel, find something to brace the ends to form a temporary "box" around the hole during install and removal. You don't need a press either, mark the position of the notch before you start and with some scrap exhaust tubing you can press it out on a bench vice, it only takes about 3/8"" of travel for it to pop out.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 01:54 PM
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Don't just look at the concentric washer position, make two marks with a black marker that extend on to the frame of the car. Then you can get it back very close to where it was. Then you won't wear the tires out on the edges if it takes a few days before you can get to an alignment shop.

Al

97 T-Bird LX 4.6 - 80k miles
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips all. I made some marks and have an appointment Monday AM for the alignment, trying not to drive much until then.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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My bushings were in bad shape, the eccentric core pushes right out with little effort. Whatever bonds the eccentric core to the sleeve was dust. I ended up renting a U-joint press from O'Reillys and that finally popped them out.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Here are pictures of the set up I used. U-Joint press & a disk from my caliper spreader set that rotates the piston on out rear disks. The 2X4 was cut to size to prevent the UCA from collapsing.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2018-04-06 18.57.58.jpg (58.6 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg 2018-04-06 18.58.10.jpg (245.5 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg 2018-04-06 18.57.36.jpg (274.5 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg 2018-04-06 18.57.42.jpg (254.3 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg 2018-04-06 18.56.46.jpg (283.5 KB, 4 views)
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 08:29 PM
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The upper control arm bushings adjust the camber. As long as you get the wheel nearly straight up it should be OK to test drive and take to a shop. My bushings weren't too bad so I was able to align it very close to correct. In fact, I've driven it several thousand miles without having it aligned yet. Many of the good chassis parts for our car seem to come out of the BAW factory in Taiwan.
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