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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Like opinion on this front suspension bushing

So, I've been adding brake ductwork and thinking about what I might want to replace on my tbird before our next race. This is my hobby after all and while I cannot describe it more accurately, the car didn't feel as confidence inspiring as it did at the end of the race. It might be that I was trying to carry a LOT more speed into turns than I had previously attempted but turn in felt "weird" like the car would understeer until it finally caught and would start turning. It wasn't the massive understeer followed by snap oversteer we felt before when i noticed a rear sway bar endlink bushing was completely worn out but it just didn't feel "right".

Anyway, this is now leading me to go through all my suspensio bits.
1) I've already decided that creating a diff reinforcement brace and running a bolt through my rear diff brace is a BAD IDEA for my applications because turning these two items rock solid will just mean something else (likely something less easy to replace) will break first. Like the M5R2 tailshaft. That would suck.

2) Replacing my front pass UCA and LCAs because of torn bushings (racing is tough on these parts) is already on my TODO list. The bottom pass front LCA to spindle bushing looks a bit loose which might account for my car's "funny" handling feeling.

3) I found the following bushing turn on my front Strut Rod to LCA bushing on my driver's side. I believe this is the E9SZ-3A140-A and according to my records I replaced them in Dec 2016. That means they were run in 2 races (Feb 2017 and Mar 2018). I looked at my notes and I believe these were also FORD parts. Near as I can see it, the bushing is still in place but the lip has torn off or it's collapsed?
http://forums.tccoa.com/44-suspensio...ml#post1503762

Any thoughts? Is there a sleeve or something that might have collapsed? I won't know until I take it off and inspect it further.

4) I'm also considering replacing the REAR LCA bushings (once i get a hydraulic press) AND the rear diff bushings with poly stuff. These are both original but I believe Energy Suspension sells both.
Anything else i should consider or are both a waste of time? I suspect they may both be a waste since initial understeering would point to the front end vs the rear end being loose.


-g
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 02:51 PM
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1) filling the open gaps of the rear mount with window weld would be the ideal solution IMO. I don't think the bolt through is bad in practice, but it does make it more rigid than the front mounts, which may lead to breakage of the rear cover or mount

2) are you talking about bushings or ball joint boots? I'm fairly happy with the energy suspension boots I used to replace the torn boots on my Moog UCAs.

3) IMO the LCA end of the strut rods are where the factory OEM bushings are INFERIOR to the thermoplastic aftermarket bushings. Every OE bushing fails like yours, even in street duty at relatively low miles(mime were replaced at 50k before I owned the car)

4) you don't need a press to remove the rear lower control arm bushings. I used a balancer puller and a short length of exhaust tubing (2.25 on the smaller bushing, 2.5" on the larger one). Same with the knuckles for that matter. See how I did mine midway through here http://forums.tccoa.com/1952610-post653.html

-Matt
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
1) filling the open gaps of the rear mount with window weld would be the ideal solution IMO. I don't think the bolt through is bad in practice, but it does make it more rigid than the front mounts, which may lead to breakage of the rear cover or mount

2) are you talking about bushings or ball joint boots? I'm fairly happy with the energy suspension boots I used to replace the torn boots on my Moog UCAs.

3) IMO the LCA end of the strut rods are where the factory OEM bushings are INFERIOR to the thermoplastic aftermarket bushings. Every OE bushing fails like yours, even in street duty at relatively low miles(mime were replaced at 50k before I owned the car)

4) you don't need a press to remove the rear lower control arm bushings. I used a balancer puller and a short length of exhaust tubing (2.25 on the smaller bushing, 2.5" on the larger one). Same with the knuckles for that matter. See how I did mine midway through here http://forums.tccoa.com/1952610-post653.html
2) Ball joint covers are torn. I might as well replace it because I'm sure this is NOT a part I want to have fail on the track.

3) So these have indeed failed? And I should go thermoplastic? Gotcha.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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I found our old thread where we discussed the thermoplastic for the LCA side bushings
http://forums.tccoa.com/44-suspensio...ilability.html

... which makes me wonder if these were indeed the thermoplastic ones I swapped in 2 years ago. I have a record of buying a set from Autozone of the FA7193. Hrm. I guess I need to pull them and investigate further.
-g

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 04:51 PM
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See Ricklovins pic in the thread you linked?

You can see the Perforated Metal ring in that pic.

If your currently installed one doesn't have that, it's aftermarket.

Factory is Rubber; thermoplastic should melt with a heat gun or torch really easily.

I've wasted a few of these, but none under 10 years old, lol.

I'm thinking from your pic you have the thermoplastic, but I've been wrong, lol.

Do Not go to the polyurethane; they extrude thru the washers under extreme load.
There are pix here somewhere.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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Part Number: FA7193
Alternate Part Number: EGK8680
Warranty: Limited Lifetime

HRRMM.......

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 09:38 AM
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Scp sells original style bushings which suppose to be better then aftermarket
50$$ a set,may worth a shot
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-17-2018, 05:18 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
Part Number: FA7193
Alternate Part Number: EGK8680
Warranty: Limited Lifetime

HRRMM.......
That usually means they'll give you a new set if these go bad.

It seems remarkably appropriate here, tho.


Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-17-2018, 05:32 PM
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Mine are the blue colored ones from moog, which are thermoplastic, the part number of yours leads back to duralast brand, which are rubber according to the description.

https://www.autozone.com/parts/suspe...81175_413277_0

Might be controversial opinion, but rubber does not work as well as thermoplastic in this position, the OEM ones fail the same way.

-Matt
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-17-2018, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Mine are the blue colored ones from moog, which are thermoplastic, the part number of yours leads back to duralast brand, which are rubber according to the description.

https://www.autozone.com/parts/suspe...81175_413277_0

Might be controversial opinion, but rubber does not work as well as thermoplastic in this position, the OEM ones fail the same way.
I'm not worried. I have a "lifetime warranty"

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-17-2018, 06:46 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Mine are the blue colored ones from moog, which are thermoplastic, the part number of yours leads back to duralast brand, which are rubber according to the description.

https://www.autozone.com/parts/suspe...81175_413277_0

Might be controversial opinion, but rubber does not work as well as thermoplastic in this position, the OEM ones fail the same way.


For what it's worth, I have the blue ones on the Tbird, and they have been on for ~7 years of heavy driving.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


"War Is Peace. Freedom Is Slavery. Ignorance Is Strength." - George Orwell.
Truth Isn't Truth. - Rudy Giuliani, 2018 Award winner, “Most Outrageous Diversion” by MSNBC for this quote
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