Thanks XR7 and Grog6. Sounds like we’re on to something; I’ll check this out. The car has 230k miles on it and these are original so maybe it’s time. I attached a picture of what I found at Rock. They call it a toe adjuster. I assume this is the same as the toe compensator link we’re talking about, right?? Where do you buy the bushings? Why not just replace the whole link? Is it due to cost or something else?
I don’t think I’ve done anything to the rear suspension though I’ve done nearly everything on the front suspension.
I also looked at the sway bar bushings. There are some little flakes of rubber on the outside but I don’t feel any free play on the bar so I figure this is not the problem.
The rear is likely in the same condition as the front was; on the pic you posted there, the blue rubber was sticking Out of my 'adjuster', lol.
Rock auto has the three stock Rear bushings that Are available, "Lower inner bushings, set", "upper inner bushing".
Make sure the upper inner is two pieces; see TM's sticky.
They're still out there. apparently.
I would personally buy the parts myself, even if you're taking it somewhere to have someone install them. They charge more, and won't warranty them, but buy good quality parts and that isn't a problem; they buy the cheapest thing available from whoever delivers them parts.
Why don't you take some pix under your car of the offending bushings, and we can do before and after photos.
Accuracy counts; mark how they are aligned going in, and put the new one in the same way.
You have to support the upper arm to put the bushing back in; cut a piece off a 2x4 the right size if nothing else.
Fuck using a press to remove it, Getting the upper inner bushing out is easy with an air hammer; punch a line of dimples in it from 3 sides, and it will fall out.
The knuckle bushings are not available stock, see the thread about poly knuckle bushings if those are bad.
If your wheel bearing is bad, it's a Timken "Set49" at rockauto, they're in everything's front wheels.
Don't buy cheap ebay or amazon.
They won't be the right bearing, as straight axles are different; they are paired rollers, not Opposed paired tapered rollers.
"Same as set49" for $10 is probably not correct.
Our wheel location is set and maintained by the preload on that bearing, so it's tight. Search for a thread on replacing it.
It can't really come out if the bearing fails, but the whole load right to left is held by those bearings, same as the front; straight rear axles usually have thrust bearings for the side loading.
Buy new axle nuts from ford, don't use the dorman ones.