Suspension Knock - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Suspension Knock

There is an odd knock from the drivers side front when the suspension compresses. It's very random, but will happen every time I go over a speed bump. I was under there with a pry bar and everything is tight, both with wheels on the ground and supported by the frame with on weight on the wheels. It's kind of driving me crazy, any thoughts on what to check out? The smurf is lowered 1.5" with eibachs on Tokico shocks. UCA & LCA are newer MOOG, strut rod bushings are new, factory rubber to sub frame.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 03:29 PM
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Probably the sway bar end link.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 03:47 PM
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^^^ My first thought as well.

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 09:54 PM
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End link or bushing.

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 05:15 AM
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 08:49 AM
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Sway bar end link. X5!

This applies to rattles from the rear also.

Al

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 12:45 PM
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Sway bar end link.....X6!!

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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I got under her this weekend and those links feel tight. I used a pry bar and rubber mallet to try and get some movement I'd expect to see from a worn out ball joint and nothing. I expect you're going to say replace them anyway. I used MOOG last time, but I don't like how the boots float on the ball joint. Rockauto has Moog & Proforged in the premium section and AC Delco, Motorcraft and Mevotech in the daily driver. All are in similar price range. Moog & Mevotech are shaped similar while the other have a straight bar. Looks like Moog, Delco & Mevotech are greasable, with Delco & Mevotech having a ring on the boot to hold it in place. Now the question, what do ya'll recommend?
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 02:32 PM
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There's so much force on those while the car is jacked up, you can't move them.

If you take the two endlinks loose at one end, you will find that one end is frozen, and the other end rattles easily.

Especially if they do not have grease fittings.

These are the best ones I've found, by ACDelco, which is the ones Raybestos Professional used to make. ACD bought Raybestos 10 years ago or so.


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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 02:55 PM
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I will add to not over tighten the nuts. I stripped one once, and replacing it next time required a die grinder.

Al
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T6Rocket View Post
I will add to not over tighten the nuts. I stripped one once, and replacing it next time required a die grinder.

Al
Agreed; I've also had issues with the bolt that goes thru the spindle rusting in place; if you mushroom it with a hammer, you'll be using a die grinder and a punch to get it out.



The links I posted above have 'deformed' features; you can see the three indents in the top of the bolt.
They will not loosen on their own.

They Can be a bitch to get to tighten; seems like the ones I bought had a hex in the end to aid in tightening/removal, but I'm not sure, it's been years since I replaced those.
An impact works, either way.

The greaseable ones last much longer than the regular ones.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 05:52 PM
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It sounds like the end links are the culprit but the first time I bought front shocks, I did not want to pay for new mounts at the top of the shock. I got a "schrunch" going over every speed bump with the new shocks.

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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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I've had the shock mounts replace for the same reason. Is the supposed to be a hole in the boot? See pic. This is the 2nd one I got from rock auto like this.
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 01:42 PM
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No. That's a factory defect. Or, a NOS defect. Really not much you can do about that. The stuff's been sitting on the shelf so long it's starting to dry rot. Send it back to rock auto, may be 3rd time's the charm.

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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 02:26 PM
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Those looks like the Raybestos/ACDelco ones.

I'd look and see if it's molded in; those seal really tight, and when you grease them it looks like it's going to pop.

They may have added that as a feature.

IF it's a feature, they'll all have them, and they'll look the same; all the same size.

If it's only that one, I'd definitely return them.

Unlike the stock/cheaper ones, those seals are retained with metal, and seal very well; people may have complained.

It took about a week for the trapped air to leak out of the last set I put on.

Those Do like to be greased regularly, I hit them every oil change, but they seem to last forever.

The set on Lazarus is about 10 years old; I replaced them after the curb incident. None of the others I've bought have lasted more than maybe 5 years.
The moog ones were dead in two years.
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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I thought factory defect at first also especially since there was not a hole in the other one I got. Pics attached as comparison. Maybe that is a relief, I know the MOOGs would bulge up then grease would be all over the spindle, etc. With these boots being sealed so well that's gap for the excess grease to run out. So now I'm thinking do I cut a little relief in the other boots or sent those back? It'd be nice if there was some documentation that stated they changed the design at some point.
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 04:19 PM
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That looks molded in to me; IDK, but look there's a hole at the inner top too.

I think it's a newer design and OK; but I'd make sure to keep them filled with grease, or water will get in.

If you send one back, I'll bet you get the newer design returned to you.

I'd load them up with grease and work them around; the trapped air will come out in a few days, as it moves around.

A sewing needle pushed gently in between the boot and the shaft will let the air out; I've done that with other seals.

One more thing: Make sure when you screw in the Zerk fittings, they end up where you can get to them; they're not a lot of room to change the angle later, lol.
I've screwed that up with one set of these, and one set of LCAs.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 10:28 PM
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Yea, that hole there looks molded by design.

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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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I installed them yesterday. There's still a knock when going over a speed bump. Any thoughts on what else to look at?
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 10:30 AM
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That's the most common problem; when did you replace uca/lca parts last?

The Shock, the shock mount, ball joints, or even wheel bearings can make noise.

Are you sure it's the right front? It can be hard to tell inside the car.

An easy way these days is to put your phone on record, lay it on the ground, and drive over it, at a speed bump.

You can hear where the noise is, and may be able to see something move.

A magnet tucked into the case so it sticks under the car can be used, just don't do that if your phone has a "No Touch" charger, it will fry it.

Also, don't run over your phone, lol.

Something else, depending on how worn the EGR system is, the EGR solenoid may be laying in the front fenderwell, making noise.
If the EGR code is on, I'd check that.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


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Truth Isn't Truth. - Rudy Giuliani, 2018 Award winner, “Most Outrageous Diversion” by MSNBC for this quote
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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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The UCAs & LCAs are MOOGs that were pulled from my RIP Cougar. So now that I'm thinking about it, I may be pushing 80K miles on those. The shock mount is ~2yrs old, it got loose and I had those replaced. The spring insulators are old though. I'm like 90+% sure its drivers side front. Going slow over a speed bump will reproduce it every time and its when the front wheels ride down the bump and as the nose dives it clunks. So its compression from the weight of the front end that causes it. No clunking when the rear end goes over the speed bump. Ball Joints & bushing are tight when I flex with a pry bar.
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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 01:25 PM
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Drive down to Rob's in Carthage and let him look at it.
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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 11:19 PM
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Double check to be sure the sway bar links are fully seated and tight. Last week I installed a set of the Moogs on my 1997. However, because I'd never done this job, instead of properly jacking at the front cross member, so as to do both sides at a time, I jacked up the passenger side first because I was sure it was the noisy side.

It seemed all went well, and I was pretty pleased, and even patted myself on the back. Until the test drive when you'd have thought I removed a new link and put the bad one in. The clunking noise was twice as bad as before.

Just to cut this short, here is the rest of the story: With the car in the air supported by stands on both sides, wheels removed, I began replacing the driver side link, thinking it was so bad perhaps it was making the noise worse on the right side. Such was not the case. with the link removed, and the sway bar was moved side to side, it was evident the nuts on the passenger side were not totally snug. Amazing how few turns it took to fully tighten and eliminate the noise.

Overall, I'm sure I'll be satisfied with the Moog links. The car gets driven less than 1500 miles per year.
One final tip to make installation a little easier: If the links you buy come with zerk fittings, wait until the links are installed before lubing. It will help keep the balls from spinning while you are trying to tighten the nuts on the shaft, which is one of the reasons I struggled and came up short the first time on the passenger side. Without a needle nose vice grip to keep the shaft from spinning I don't know any other way to hold it in place.

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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old Today, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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The knock was the UCA on the drivers side. Surprisingly I could not get any flex or noise out of it even once removed.
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