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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Suspension Knock

There is an odd knock from the drivers side front when the suspension compresses. It's very random, but will happen every time I go over a speed bump. I was under there with a pry bar and everything is tight, both with wheels on the ground and supported by the frame with on weight on the wheels. It's kind of driving me crazy, any thoughts on what to check out? The smurf is lowered 1.5" with eibachs on Tokico shocks. UCA & LCA are newer MOOG, strut rod bushings are new, factory rubber to sub frame.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 03:29 PM
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Probably the sway bar end link.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 03:47 PM
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^^^ My first thought as well.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 09:54 PM
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End link or bushing.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 05:15 AM
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X4!

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 08:49 AM
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Sway bar end link. X5!

This applies to rattles from the rear also.

Al

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 12:45 PM
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Sway bar end link.....X6!!

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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I got under her this weekend and those links feel tight. I used a pry bar and rubber mallet to try and get some movement I'd expect to see from a worn out ball joint and nothing. I expect you're going to say replace them anyway. I used MOOG last time, but I don't like how the boots float on the ball joint. Rockauto has Moog & Proforged in the premium section and AC Delco, Motorcraft and Mevotech in the daily driver. All are in similar price range. Moog & Mevotech are shaped similar while the other have a straight bar. Looks like Moog, Delco & Mevotech are greasable, with Delco & Mevotech having a ring on the boot to hold it in place. Now the question, what do ya'll recommend?
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 02:32 PM
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There's so much force on those while the car is jacked up, you can't move them.

If you take the two endlinks loose at one end, you will find that one end is frozen, and the other end rattles easily.

Especially if they do not have grease fittings.

These are the best ones I've found, by ACDelco, which is the ones Raybestos Professional used to make. ACD bought Raybestos 10 years ago or so.


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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 02:55 PM
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I will add to not over tighten the nuts. I stripped one once, and replacing it next time required a die grinder.

Al
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 03:22 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by T6Rocket View Post
I will add to not over tighten the nuts. I stripped one once, and replacing it next time required a die grinder.

Al
Agreed; I've also had issues with the bolt that goes thru the spindle rusting in place; if you mushroom it with a hammer, you'll be using a die grinder and a punch to get it out.



The links I posted above have 'deformed' features; you can see the three indents in the top of the bolt.
They will not loosen on their own.

They Can be a bitch to get to tighten; seems like the ones I bought had a hex in the end to aid in tightening/removal, but I'm not sure, it's been years since I replaced those.
An impact works, either way.

The greaseable ones last much longer than the regular ones.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 05:52 PM
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It sounds like the end links are the culprit but the first time I bought front shocks, I did not want to pay for new mounts at the top of the shock. I got a "schrunch" going over every speed bump with the new shocks.

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