Where to start? - TCCoA Forums
 5Likes
  • 1 Post By robert_97tbird
  • 2 Post By RalphP
  • 2 Post By S4gunn
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear Poster
 
robert_97tbird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Fresno, CA
Age: 19
Posts: 35
Where to start?

When replacing my brakes all the way around i noticed my shocks in the rear are showing signs they're gonna need to be replaced soon. Suspension and handling is what i wanted to focus on most in this car(like to hit the turns at speed) i just wasn't expecting to get started on it quite yet. After going through the other forums im pretty confused lol, lot of abbreviations and suggested parts thrown around. Also im not looking to put together custom built coilovers for the front, little beyond me at the moment, still new to all this. Want this car handling great but its still a daily so dont need anything super stiff. I was curious about the multiple braces offered on the scp site also, has anyone here had those? If so did they improve the car a lot or would it be a waste for a street car.
robert_97tbird is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 07:06 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
S4gunn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: SF, CA
Age: 40
Posts: 2,609
Garage
Any shocks you'd buy, even the autozone/oreillys, will be better than the 100K mi ones you currently have on the car.
Considering they are $20-30 bucks each, unless the rest of the car is falling apart, I'd say it'd be worth doing esp if you are going to DIY the work yourself. If you had to pay someone (say 1-2 hours of labor), we are now talking about a $400 project and THAT might not be worth it for a car as old as this.

Forget about the braces. They are pretty useless. That money is better spent elsewhere (like new rubber bits -- your bushings are probably pretty wasted if they've never been replaced on this car). Or fresh tires.
I'd also say the single best place you can put your money besides suspension would be in the brakes. Stealing from the Ford parts bin (look for the PBR brake upgrade) is money well spent.

-g

My TCCOA iTrader Rating: (44 / 100% w/ 50+ transactions)

24 Hours of Lemons 2017 Sear Pointless Organizer's Choice
2018 Upgrade: does your TBIRD make Fritos? Mine does
http://goo.gl/csaet4
S4gunn is online now  
post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear Poster
 
robert_97tbird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Fresno, CA
Age: 19
Posts: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
Any shocks you'd buy, even the autozone/oreillys, will be better than the 100K mi ones you currently have on the car.
Considering they are $20-30 bucks each, unless the rest of the car is falling apart, I'd say it'd be worth doing esp if you are going to DIY the work yourself. If you had to pay someone (say 1-2 hours of labor), we are now talking about a $400 project and THAT might not be worth it for a car as old as this.

Forget about the braces. They are pretty useless. That money is better spent elsewhere (like new rubber bits -- your bushings are probably pretty wasted if they've never been replaced on this car). Or fresh tires.
I'd also say the single best place you can put your money besides suspension would be in the brakes. Stealing from the Ford parts bin (look for the PBR brake upgrade) is money well spent.

-g
I do plan on doing the work myself if i can besides the alignment when its all done. Also i just got done replacing the brakes so they should be good for now. Got slotted rotors on all 4, new calipers, brake pads and replaced the master cylinder. Everything besides the rear calipers and master cylinder was a Powerstop upgrade. They feel better, its just maximizing your factory system though because the powder coated front calipers are the same as the factory.
RalphP likes this.
robert_97tbird is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 07:53 PM
Kind of slapped together
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bossier City, LA
Age: 63
Posts: 4,829
Quote:
Originally Posted by robert_97tbird View Post
They feel better, its just maximizing your factory system though because the powder coated front calipers are the same as the factory.
Next cycle, do a PBR upgrade on the front.

RwP
XR7-4.6 and CDsDontBurn like this.

Fuelly
RalphP is offline  
post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 09:17 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

Moderator
 
Grog6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Harriman, TN
Age: 56
Posts: 9,990
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
Next cycle, do a PBR upgrade on the front.

RwP
I bought the nice PowerStop PBR's; they're nice and red.

They were $78.79, the stock ones are $41.99.

It was worth the upgrade.

If you buy the 2004 ones, the Mn12 Banjo bolts fit.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


"War Is Peace. Freedom Is Slavery. Ignorance Is Strength." - George Orwell.
Truth Isn't Truth. - Rudy Giuliani, 2018 Award winner, “Most Outrageous Diversion” by MSNBC for this quote
Grog6 is online now  
post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear Poster
 
robert_97tbird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Fresno, CA
Age: 19
Posts: 35
Most of the rubber components in the suspension are what need replacing but it would be a good idea to replace most of it while im in there right.(really just need the justification haha) Always looking to improve the car so again has anybody tried the braces offered from scp that are supposed to improve handling? If i am going to rebuild where could i get most of the parts scp's rebuild kit seems pricey.
robert_97tbird is online now  
post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 12:04 AM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

Moderator
 
Grog6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Harriman, TN
Age: 56
Posts: 9,990
Garage
I wouldn't worry about bracing until you add some serious power; adding 150lbs of steel is not going to make it more fun to drive.

Everything SCP is expensive.

New UCA's, LCA's and bushings in the back will make it feel new, and new shocks will help too.

I'd get some standard shocks for now, we're working on finding a replacement for the sport shocks; everything good is out of production.

Read the stickys in the suspension forum, for a better idea of what I'm talking about.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


"War Is Peace. Freedom Is Slavery. Ignorance Is Strength." - George Orwell.
Truth Isn't Truth. - Rudy Giuliani, 2018 Award winner, “Most Outrageous Diversion” by MSNBC for this quote
Grog6 is online now  
post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
1st Gear Poster
 
robert_97tbird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Fresno, CA
Age: 19
Posts: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
I wouldn't worry about bracing until you add some serious power; adding 150lbs of steel is not going to make it more fun to drive.

Everything SCP is expensive.

New UCA's, LCA's and bushings in the back will make it feel new, and new shocks will help too.

I'd get some standard shocks for now, we're working on finding a replacement for the sport shocks; everything good is out of production.

Read the stickys in the suspension forum, for a better idea of what I'm talking about.
Thank you. Any recommendations on sway bar sizes? Im not clear about whats currently on there. Ive seen the stickys yeah, not sure why theres not more out there still honestly i know for a while this car was a great seller at least where im at and they're an awesome car based on everything ive seen and the few months ive owned mine. Would KYB be the best option out there for right now?
robert_97tbird is online now  
post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 07:29 AM
PostWhore
 
T6Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,745
I got the Addco 1 1/8 rear bar. Awsome for handling, but the paint fell off one end in no time, and it's all rusty. Get a little creak backing out of the driveway - presumably from poly rubbing on bare metal/rust.

Al

97 T-Bird LX 4.6 - 80k miles
94 Supra TT Auto - street/strip car
04 CVPI- Brenda's car - 76k miles
Previous Fords:
95 T-Bird LX 4.6 - fully optioned, owned 15 years, 220k miles
96 Cougar XR-7 4.6- Brenda's car, owned 11 years, 187k miles
88 T-Bird 3.8 - first T-Bird, owned 5 years, 206k miles
T6Rocket is offline  
post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 04:48 PM
PostWhore
 
CDsDontBurn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Banning, CA
Age: 35
Posts: 1,985
Here's a break down if you want a full list of part numbers. Prices on some of these parts may have changed by now, I'm sure. But this is the list I've been building. Poly is what I'm using where applicable. There is Derlin available, but that's more money so I didn't go that route. Seems like you don't want to either.

Yes, that's how much I've spent so far. No, that doesn't include the shipping / tax costs. Those weren't calculated into my overall costs...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2019-8-7_Parts List.JPG (311.7 KB, 6 views)

'97 Bird, "Pearl": L/R 2.5in Magnaflow Hi-Flow CATs | PI Intake & PI Cams | Suspension Rebuild

'13 Taurus, "The Bull": 3.5L Goodness

'00 2dr v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Greddy SP2 CAT-Back | Eibach ProKit springs | Eibach F/R Sway Bars | KYB-GR2 struts
CDsDontBurn is offline  
post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 06:52 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
S4gunn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: SF, CA
Age: 40
Posts: 2,609
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by robert_97tbird View Post
Thank you. Any recommendations on sway bar sizes? Im not clear about whats currently on there. Ive seen the stickys yeah, not sure why theres not more out there still honestly i know for a while this car was a great seller at least where im at and they're an awesome car based on everything ive seen and the few months ive owned mine. Would KYB be the best option out there for right now?
There is such a thing as TOO thick a rear swaybar -- even for a track car. Its all about balance.
Changing the front one is a PITA with the engine still in the car.

I checked my notes and for my track car, I found the best combination with my stock 95 front bar (1.06" tubular)was a 0.91" solid bar from a 91SC. I tried a 0.94" solid rear from a 95 5.0 car and found it too stiff; the rear and wanted to whip around way too quickly (more oversteer than neutral) so I went back. The 91SC bar was MUCH more neutral feeling and inspired much more confidence.


https://www.tccoa.com/articles/mn12-...ar/swaybar.htm

You can calculate stiffness in lb per in of deflection for each bar and figure out the calculation.
https://motoiq.com/frankenmiata-hand...ith-a-hacksaw/

My TCCOA iTrader Rating: (44 / 100% w/ 50+ transactions)

24 Hours of Lemons 2017 Sear Pointless Organizer's Choice
2018 Upgrade: does your TBIRD make Fritos? Mine does
http://goo.gl/csaet4
S4gunn is online now  
post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 07:08 PM
Humble MN12 Genius
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 16,552
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
Quote:
Originally Posted by T6Rocket View Post
I got the Addco 1 1/8 rear bar. Awsome for handling, but the paint fell off one end in no time, and it's all rusty. Get a little creak backing out of the driveway - presumably from poly rubbing on bare metal/rust.

Al
Give the bushings some lube and it should go away. I have lots of poly back there including on the same bar and the suspension is quiet. My Addco 1-1/8” has a zink plated finish, it lost its gold colored luster but it never rusts so I just paint it periodically

-Matt
XR7-4.6 is offline  
post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 07:43 AM
PostWhore
 
T6Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,745
I did have the expensive grease on them when I installed it. I guess it came off with the paint!

Al

97 T-Bird LX 4.6 - 80k miles
94 Supra TT Auto - street/strip car
04 CVPI- Brenda's car - 76k miles
Previous Fords:
95 T-Bird LX 4.6 - fully optioned, owned 15 years, 220k miles
96 Cougar XR-7 4.6- Brenda's car, owned 11 years, 187k miles
88 T-Bird 3.8 - first T-Bird, owned 5 years, 206k miles
T6Rocket is offline  
post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
1st Gear Poster
 
robert_97tbird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Fresno, CA
Age: 19
Posts: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
There is such a thing as TOO thick a rear swaybar -- even for a track car. Its all about balance.
Changing the front one is a PITA with the engine still in the car.

I checked my notes and for my track car, I found the best combination with my stock 95 front bar (1.06" tubular)was a 0.91" solid bar from a 91SC. I tried a 0.94" solid rear from a 95 5.0 car and found it too stiff; the rear and wanted to whip around way too quickly (more oversteer than neutral) so I went back. The 91SC bar was MUCH more neutral feeling and inspired much more confidence.


https://www.tccoa.com/articles/mn12-...ar/swaybar.htm

You can calculate stiffness in lb per in of deflection for each bar and figure out the calculation.
https://motoiq.com/frankenmiata-hand...ith-a-hacksaw/

Alright thanks, to clarify you used 91 SC for the front and rear bars?

Last edited by Rodeo Joe; Today at 05:01 AM. Reason: Fixed the quote for you! :)
robert_97tbird is online now  
post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 12:04 PM
Humble MN12 Genius
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 16,552
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
Quote:
Originally Posted by T6Rocket View Post
I did have the expensive grease on them when I installed it. I guess it came off with the paint!

Al
Probably I’ve found that regular dielectric grease works just as good as the elusive Energy Suspension grease.

-Matt
XR7-4.6 is offline  
post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 05:26 PM
Newbie
 
96SportLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: SoCal
Posts: 14
If anybody finds a good solution to the Sport Suspension front shocks that is a drop-in fit, that would be great. Unfortunately, I'm not proficient with hands-on repairs and don't know of any good shops around here who could do the job properly. I had replaced the rear shocks with the drop-in Bilsteins, which work great, but the front shocks which Ford recommended are for the non-Sport T-Bird and are a bit bouncy on undulating highways.
96SportLX is offline  
post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 06:25 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
S4gunn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: SF, CA
Age: 40
Posts: 2,609
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by robert_97tbird View Post
Alright thanks, to clarify you used 91 SC for the front and rear bars?
No,
My tbird was originally a 3.8L NA vehicle. I kept my stock 95 front bar and I paired it with a 0.91" solid rear bar from a 91SC.

The best source for swaybars is the local junkyard. It's one of the easier parts to unbolt and take home with you.

I don't know what kind of tbird you have so I can't tell you how much thicker a bar you should go.
You can of course do the math yourself.

My TCCOA iTrader Rating: (44 / 100% w/ 50+ transactions)

24 Hours of Lemons 2017 Sear Pointless Organizer's Choice
2018 Upgrade: does your TBIRD make Fritos? Mine does
http://goo.gl/csaet4

Last edited by Rodeo Joe; Today at 05:13 AM. Reason: Fixed the quote for you! :)
S4gunn is online now  
post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear Poster
 
robert_97tbird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Fresno, CA
Age: 19
Posts: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
No,
My tbird was originally a 3.8L NA vehicle. I kept my stock 95 front bar and I paired it with a 0.91" solid rear bar from a 91SC.

The best source for swaybars is the local junkyard. It's one of the easier parts to unbolt and take home with you.

I don't know what kind of tbird you have so I can't tell you how much thicker a bar you should go.
You can of course do the math yourself.
Right unfortunately theres not many in my local junkyard at the moment ive been checking. Its a 97 lx with the 4.6l V8. Check the math when i get to it, gonna get the suspension done first and a few other things.

Last edited by Rodeo Joe; Today at 05:16 AM. Reason: Fixed the quote for you! :)
robert_97tbird is online now  
post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 12:24 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
S4gunn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: SF, CA
Age: 40
Posts: 2,609
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by robert_97tbird View Post
Right unfortunately theres not many in my local junkyard at the moment ive been checking. Its a 97 lx with the 4.6l V8. Check the math when i get to it, gonna get the suspension done first and a few other things.
97 LX 4.6L =
1.06" solid front
0.96" solid rear

This is probably true (some of the numbers are off slightly but at least you'll be close)

Looking at the chart, I have the same front swaybar so MY recommendation is to go no bigger than you use today. IMO, you should replace the >20yr old rubber bits first and feel how it handles to decide if you need more rear swaybar. Just throwing a bigger one on (like the ADDCO bars) is no guarantee of better handling.

If you feel sloppy handling, check the rubber bushings at the endlinks. These are super easy to replace and if the rubber is rotten out, you'll go from lots of oversteer (because the rear swaybar is effectively disconnected) to snap oversteer (as the bolt holding the endlink in place hits the edge of the capture ring and actually starts trying to twist the bar).

-g

My TCCOA iTrader Rating: (44 / 100% w/ 50+ transactions)

24 Hours of Lemons 2017 Sear Pointless Organizer's Choice
2018 Upgrade: does your TBIRD make Fritos? Mine does
http://goo.gl/csaet4
S4gunn is online now  
post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 12:41 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
S4gunn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: SF, CA
Age: 40
Posts: 2,609
Garage
One more thing: Row52 is a good website to see what vehicles are available at your local junkyards.

Usually what you see from Pick N Pull website is pretty sparse; this website often has more data as to the vehicles in the various nearby yards (ex: youll get engine info which can tell you if its a SC, V6, or V8).
https://row52.com/

My TCCOA iTrader Rating: (44 / 100% w/ 50+ transactions)

24 Hours of Lemons 2017 Sear Pointless Organizer's Choice
2018 Upgrade: does your TBIRD make Fritos? Mine does
http://goo.gl/csaet4
S4gunn is online now  
post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear Poster
 
robert_97tbird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Fresno, CA
Age: 19
Posts: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by robert_97tbird View Post
Right unfortunately theres not many in my local junkyard at the moment ive been checking. Its a 97 lx with the 4.6l V8. Check the math when i get to it, gonna get the suspension done first and a few other things.
97 LX 4.6L =
1.06" solid front
0.96" solid rear

This is probably true (some of the numbers are off slightly but at least you'll be close)

Looking at the chart, I have the same front swaybar so MY recommendation is to go no bigger than you use today. IMO, you should replace the >20yr old rubber bits first and feel how it handles to decide if you need more rear swaybar. Just throwing a bigger one on (like the ADDCO bars) is no guarantee of better handling.

If you feel sloppy handling, check the rubber bushings at the endlinks. These are super easy to replace and if the rubber is rotten out, you'll go from lots of oversteer (because the rear swaybar is effectively disconnected) to snap oversteer (as the bolt holding the endlink in place hits the edge of the capture ring and actually starts trying to twist the bar).

-g
Ok, yea im definitely gonna replace the rubber stuff first it looked rough. I was thinking about the sway bar because when cornering at speed i can feel a lot of body roll in the rear, figured this was due to the bar but could it just be the shocks going out?
robert_97tbird is online now  
post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 03:24 PM
PostWhore
 
T6Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,745
Also look up the LKQ u-pull-it junkyards.

Al

97 T-Bird LX 4.6 - 80k miles
94 Supra TT Auto - street/strip car
04 CVPI- Brenda's car - 76k miles
Previous Fords:
95 T-Bird LX 4.6 - fully optioned, owned 15 years, 220k miles
96 Cougar XR-7 4.6- Brenda's car, owned 11 years, 187k miles
88 T-Bird 3.8 - first T-Bird, owned 5 years, 206k miles
T6Rocket is offline  
post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 12:22 AM
Kind of slapped together
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bossier City, LA
Age: 63
Posts: 4,829
And don't forget to hit car-part.com for more possible sources.

RwP

Fuelly
RalphP is offline  
post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old Today, 02:20 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
S4gunn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: SF, CA
Age: 40
Posts: 2,609
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by robert_97tbird View Post
Ok, yea im definitely gonna replace the rubber stuff first it looked rough. I was thinking about the sway bar because when cornering at speed i can feel a lot of body roll in the rear, figured this was due to the bar but could it just be the shocks going out?
Do the bounce test.
Bounce on your fender (all four corners) -- push down or put weight like your butt on it and release.
Car should go down (from application of weight), up (from release of weight), and stop.
If it continues to oscillate up and down like a pogo-stick, that corner's shock absorber is blown.

If these are original shocks, I'll practically guarantee that at least one (if not all) your shocks are blown.

-g
PS. if you search "bounce test" on youtube, you should probably add "suspension" to that search list. Otherwise, your results might be a little different than expected.. and you might waste your time.

My TCCOA iTrader Rating: (44 / 100% w/ 50+ transactions)

24 Hours of Lemons 2017 Sear Pointless Organizer's Choice
2018 Upgrade: does your TBIRD make Fritos? Mine does
http://goo.gl/csaet4
S4gunn is online now  
post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old Today, 03:13 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

Moderator
 
Grog6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Harriman, TN
Age: 56
Posts: 9,990
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
-g
PS. if you search "bounce test" on youtube, you should probably add "suspension" to that search list. Otherwise, your results might be a little different than expected.. and you might waste your time.
That kind of bounce is never a waste of time, lol.

That made my day, lol.

File that under "Problems I'll never have, but appreciate nonetheless.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


"War Is Peace. Freedom Is Slavery. Ignorance Is Strength." - George Orwell.
Truth Isn't Truth. - Rudy Giuliani, 2018 Award winner, “Most Outrageous Diversion” by MSNBC for this quote
Grog6 is online now  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (1 members and 2 guests)
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Car won't start, replaced bad fuel pump still won't start Looking for leads Splattered General Tech 5 03-02-2010 09:43 PM
Wouldn't start / changed fuel filter / started right up / week later wont start? mRbojangles Engine - 5.0L & 5.8L 3 05-09-2006 07:18 PM
Remote Start/keyless install on a 93 Coug. Where to start. 93sleeper Audio / Electronics 8 09-08-2004 04:43 PM
vibration on start and Tranny question chris Engine - 4.6L & 5.4L 5 07-25-2002 09:32 PM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome