I've reused the originals as well; they are three thin nuts in a cage, and they have slightly different threads.
Removing them carves on the axle a bit, but they still carve on it a bit the second time. I replaced the axles the third time I did the bearings on that car, they had 330k miles on them, lol. I bought new nuts when I replaced the axles.
The nylock version cuts threads in the nylon, and you want to replace them if you remove them, as the grooves are there already, and won't retain shit.
The Dorman parts are mechanically deformed, as you can see in the pic, and cut the hell out of the axle going in and out. Fuck that.
The important thing of putting these on, it to turn the wheel as you're tightening, to seat everything.
Tighten, turn, tighten, turn... You'll notice it loosens up when you turn the wheel.
Once it quits loosening up, stand on a long breaker bar to get the right torque; it's higher than any torque wrench you'll have.
Once you can't get the bar to move standing on the bar, it's good.
You likely cannot over torque this, unless you weigh 500lbs.
You're pulling the steel inner races together, and they're 3/16" thick or better.
The SET49 bearings from Timken are "Opposed Tapered Roller Bearings", cheap knockoffs are spherical rollers, and won't last for shit.
You can get these from anyone, really. They have been used for this for 40 years or so.
RA has them fairly cheap; get Timken bearings.
Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.
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Last edited by Grog6; 09-11-2019 at 12:44 PM.