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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-21-2004, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
 
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Front hub question

Is their anyway to tell if I have a bent hub, I have a large
vibration when I apply the break lightly I just but new rotors and
brake pads on. Now what I am seeing is when I rotate the driver side
tire the rotor seem to skip it will hit the brake pad then it will
not when it hits the brake pad it is almost impossable to move it.

Would just like to have some help with this problem

Thanks
Dave
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-21-2004, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
 
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Alittle more info

Well the rotors are 13" baer(I bought the kit). The car has 102,000
miles and it's a 95 so if I replace the hub's I will also replace
the bearing am I correct or not. I have been plauged with this
vibration for sometime now thats why I whet to the Baer 13" rotor
kit.

I just finshing looking at the hub what I did is swap the passage
side rotor which is good as far as I can tell (The rotor seems to have good contact with caliper) with the drivers side and it still has the same problem I spin it and it locks up in one area and spins freely on the other. If it is the bearing I am not getting any noise from them at all and the hub has no play in it at all that I can see.

Dave
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-21-2004, 10:11 PM
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Sounds like you may be experiencing "pad knockback", which would be aggravated by the larger diameter rotors ...

Have a look at this tech article from the Stoptech brake website ... you will likely want to replace your front wheel bearing / hub assy. after reading it.

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/knockback.htm


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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-21-2004, 10:19 PM
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i get the same thing..new hubs are going on monday..hopefully the problem will go away..no i can actaully enjoy the Konis brown will be delivering

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-22-2004, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
 
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fast Ed N Thanks I will check out that web site. I am planning on replaceding the the Hubs I already replaced almost the hole front end the only 2 things left are the Hubs and the stearing.

As soon as this is fix it's time to work on the rear end of the car.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-22-2004, 07:26 PM
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I have the same problem on the passenger side ... I would love to hear any solution you have.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-23-2004, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by S_Mazza
I have the same problem on the passenger side ... I would love to hear any solution you have.
i fixed my issue, which seems to be identical to Dragons. Aaron and I swapped out my front hubs a little earlier tonite and all the shimmy, shake, and rattle in the steering wheel and during braking is gone. The only sound i get may be coming from the shock/spring assy, but it will pulled off when i put in new shocks.

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1996 Braincoated, all Aluminum PI powered and obscenely loud Pearl White Tbird [email protected] AKA Dyrdek.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-24-2004, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thats great. My car goes into the shop this thursday to have both hubs replace. I just hope it solves mine like it did for you. Once this annoying problem is gone I can get to work on the rear end of the car.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-25-2004, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
 
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Well I just pick my car up this mourning. The gauge took the car late in the evening yesterday. they replace both hubs and now the car is perfect no vibrations at all at all speeds.
So it now time to start work on the rear of the car.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-25-2004, 08:59 PM
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Hmm.... I wonder if that is where my vibrastion is coming from!? How hard of a job is it to change the hubs? If you you guys don't mind me asking, what did the shop charge for the job?

I have this vibration at all speeds. But it vibrates faster and more aggressive the faster I am going. I am also experiencing the bad vibration when the brakes are applied. My steering wheel also jerks slightly left and right whenever the vibration occurs.

It is barely noticable at city speeds mainly at highway speeds. Man I hate it!

So thanks for any info guys!

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-25-2004, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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Well Tony I purchased all my parts from a local store the hubs cost me $79.00 and I didn't have the right torque wrench to do the job so I had a local repair shop (That I trusted) replace the hubs for me it cost me a hole $48.00 for 1 hours of work. I also replace my rotors, because if my hub was warped most likely my rotors would be to.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-25-2004, 10:24 PM
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Tony, that sounds like a tie rod problem. Grab the tie rod near the wheel and try to shake it around. It shouldn't shake around. I think you want the wheel to be resting on the ground, but maybe it should be jacked up - I forget. Also, if you have an assistant, have them start the car and remain parked. Then watch the front wheels as they turn the steering wheel side to side. If they don't move smoothly, that's not good.

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-26-2004, 06:20 AM
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I just put new tie rods on last week hoping that would help. The old ones were shot, but the problem is still there. I am going to be getting tires in a few weeks so I will see if that helps first before trying anything else. My tires on there now aren't in the best of shape...


Sold - 1997 Ford Thunderbird 4.6 Sport - Full bolt on, PI stuff, gears, converter, exhaust, full suspension & many other things.

2007 MUSTANG GT (5M) - 504rwhp/449rwtq
- Paxton NOVI 2200 H.O. (10psi) - CMDP's - 127200 Comp Cams - BBK LT's - O/R X - FRPP GTA's - Mid Atlantic Tuned - FRPP 4.10's - Truetrac - Moser Axles - McLeod RST - Fidanza Steel FW - Eibach Pro Kit - J&M LCA's - UMI Relo. Brackets - Spohn Adj. PHB - Prothane Motor Mounts - Hawk HPS Pads - 19" Sport Edition KV5 Rims - Hankook Ventus V12 Evo Tires
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-26-2004, 06:24 AM
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Tony; also check the strut rod bushings where they pass thru the lower control arm.
Worn bushings there can create play in the steering.

Steve - TCCoA member
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