FYI, rear subframes suck to take out - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 1 (permalink) Old 03-21-2004, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Claswon, MI
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FYI, rear subframes suck to take out

my rear subframe had rust showing on qutie a bit of it, I got new suspension bushings that I am installing, so I figured while I was taking stuff apart, I'd pull the rear subframe and paint it too. The bolts take a 15 MM wrench, they are tiny. I broke a 15 MM 1/2 drive socket and then broke a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer. They were Craftsman and Mac respectively. The reducer was one of the black ones for an impact even. That was on the rear bolts. On the front bolts, both heads broke off due to the bolts being completely rusted into the metal sleeves in the bushings. Then, the subframe wouldn't drop down because of this so a whoel saw was used to cut some stuff apart to get it to come down. It was not a fun experience.

I destroyed two bushings, all 4 bushings are $260, my dad's price, he is a mechanic at a Ford dealership. They are expensive, plain old rubber, and based on my research, they are absolutely the only thing availiable. They are more than just two big rubber donuts too, I was going to look into having some solid ones made, but there is way too much too them to just go to a mahine shop and tell them to make an aluminum disc with x hieght and y diameter with a z diameter hole in it.

Just thought others might want to know of the aweful experience in case they were thinking about pulling theirs out.

Former owner of 94 Bird with DOHC 4.6L swapped from a mark VIII

2011 CTS-V Wagon
1968 Torino was an original 289, C4, fully documented numbers matching car. Now: DOHC 4.6L/T-56 swapped, Cobra intake, IMRC delete, BBK long tubes and H pipe. Dynotech Aluminum Driveshaft, 9" rear with TrueTrac and 4.11's.
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