JL's braces and 1 3/8" bars powder coated - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2004, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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JL's braces and 1 3/8" bars powder coated



13 total pieces, all powder coated for $55

Former owner of 94 Bird with DOHC 4.6L swapped from a mark VIII

2011 CTS-V Wagon
1968 Torino was an original 289, C4, fully documented numbers matching car. Now: DOHC 4.6L/T-56 swapped, Cobra intake, IMRC delete, BBK long tubes and H pipe. Dynotech Aluminum Driveshaft, 9" rear with TrueTrac and 4.11's.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2004, 10:41 PM
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Looks good. I wish I had gotten my braces coated when I got them. I just didn't have access to someone that could powder coat at the time.


Russell

JL's chassis braces, ST springs w/ 1 coil cut in rear (27.2" F 28" R), Airlift airbags (5 psi), Bilstein shocks, Cobra brakes F & R, ROH RT 17x9s, 255/285s Khumo Ecsta MX tires, 2.5" dual exhaust w/borla mufflers, 1 3/8 f & r bars, remote filter,subframe buildup, Al differential bushings, J-modded '02 tranny, 9.5" DD stall, 30K Hayden cooler, PI intake, 02 GT MAF, XCal 2

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-26-2004, 08:34 PM
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Damn,if I'd have known you were gonna powdercoat them,I'd have shipped them unfinished
Looks good man.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-26-2004, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't know you were going to paint them or I would have had you ship them unfinished. I had enough other sandblasting to do that it wasn't a big deal to do a little more. I mean, I did sandblast the whole rear subframe.

Former owner of 94 Bird with DOHC 4.6L swapped from a mark VIII

2011 CTS-V Wagon
1968 Torino was an original 289, C4, fully documented numbers matching car. Now: DOHC 4.6L/T-56 swapped, Cobra intake, IMRC delete, BBK long tubes and H pipe. Dynotech Aluminum Driveshaft, 9" rear with TrueTrac and 4.11's.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-28-2004, 11:15 PM
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Now the big question is...have you installed the sway bars? I am going to round up some longer bolts for the rear brackets. I couldn't get them adjusted right today with my 1 3/8" bars.

The front was cake with the motor out...just took some wiggling today to re-align it. I still have not found a good way to re-install sway bar endlinks without the use of air tools. Those things suck with hand tools.

"That is the worst looking car in the whole world. I'd rather look at one of your dingle berries"

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-29-2004, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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I put the back one in. I was able to get the mounts persuaded into the proper form. a Vice, a large channel lock and a hammer were involved. I am waiting for my headers to come to put the front one on. The front suspension is still all apart waiting for the K-member to be dropped. I got the rear end completely done but can't tighten the end links how the directions say with the rear of the car hanging freely. So I am gonig to do that last after everything else is done I will get the wheels on and crop the rear on to a couple blocks and get under there to properly tighten the end links.

This project has invovled a lot of persuasion. I had to persuade the summit driveshaft loop to get a little more breathing room on the sides of the shaft. I had to persuade the RTLB into position. Those mounts on the rear sway bar, I am sure the front will be similar? And then there was the rear shock tower brace. I just had to slot the holes slightly because I didn't feel comfotable trying to persuade the shock. I didn't want to grind out the holes in the bar at all. But I didn't think a sideway load on the shocks to get them to reach the lower mounting points was a good idea.

Former owner of 94 Bird with DOHC 4.6L swapped from a mark VIII

2011 CTS-V Wagon
1968 Torino was an original 289, C4, fully documented numbers matching car. Now: DOHC 4.6L/T-56 swapped, Cobra intake, IMRC delete, BBK long tubes and H pipe. Dynotech Aluminum Driveshaft, 9" rear with TrueTrac and 4.11's.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-29-2004, 07:50 PM
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The front sway bar mounts were much easier IMO. The rears are giving me so much trouble that I got longer bolts to pull the mount up to the plate. That should do the trick.

Up front a hammer was the tool of choice to get the mounts right. And if I remember correctly I was standing on the K member leaning over on the bolt to get it started in the threads.

That kit SHOULD come with bolts and or modified mounts....no doubt about it.

"That is the worst looking car in the whole world. I'd rather look at one of your dingle berries"

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-29-2004, 07:53 PM
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JL's pieces are worth every penny. I have most of them on the car, along with some KB pieces, and his units are made better than the KB units.

JH
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-29-2004, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 4 Cam Bird
And then there was the rear shock tower brace. I just had to slot the holes slightly because I didn't feel comfotable trying to persuade the shock. I didn't want to grind out the holes in the bar at all. But I didn't think a sideway load on the shocks to get them to reach the lower mounting points was a good idea.
ahhh..you mounted the rear STB over the shock stud?
The best results are with it bolted directly to the double-walled area next to the shock stud's mounting area.
JL

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-29-2004, 11:09 PM
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Looks real good. I need most of that stuff in due time. Gotta round up the money first.

I wanted some more power and a beefed up driveline for the track this year. Suspension is the summer project. JL braces with Koni adjustable shocks.

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by Johnny Langton

ahhh..you mounted the rear STB over the shock stud?
The best results are with it bolted directly to the double-walled area next to the shock stud's mounting area.
JL
Ah yes, oops, I'll be moving that, I thought I had too many bolts left over had 4 and should have only had 2 since all the front suspension brace holes have bolts in them and two mount together. Forgot where everything came from when I took all the bolts out, didn't remember there being any for that. No big deal. I can hack down one of the old upper shock mount bushing sleeves to pick up the slack in the bolt hole if the bolts will go through them. No big deal, mabye its a good thing those headers didn't come yet so the fornt end didn't get puttogheter so i didn't start driving it like that. We all screw something up once in a while. I've got nothing.

Former owner of 94 Bird with DOHC 4.6L swapped from a mark VIII

2011 CTS-V Wagon
1968 Torino was an original 289, C4, fully documented numbers matching car. Now: DOHC 4.6L/T-56 swapped, Cobra intake, IMRC delete, BBK long tubes and H pipe. Dynotech Aluminum Driveshaft, 9" rear with TrueTrac and 4.11's.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 01:22 AM
 
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anyone have a pic of how the JL rear strut tower brace should be installed?
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-15-2004, 06:10 PM
 
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i want some pictures of where it shoulld go too.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-15-2004, 07:21 PM
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maybe I missed something... but ALL of those pieces for only $55 bucks?

Why so damn cheap?

-Kornhaus
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-15-2004, 07:26 PM
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Powder coating really isn't all that expensive, especially when they're relatively small pieces like that. It also helps if you've done some good business with the place before or if you're just friendly with the owner/manager.. whoever.
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-17-2004, 06:23 PM
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Brad or JL,

Do either of you have an idea on getting the bolt out of the front spindle (upper control arm bolt) so that I can get my front shocks out of there.

Tony

Tony McColl
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New motor as of Aug 1st.
No Dyno Numbers yet.
Just two runs at 5800 ft.


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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-19-2004, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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Someone asked about the location. I don't have a picture of it but I jsut have the rear shock tower brace placed pretty much as close to the shocks as possible right behind them.

The powder coating, they were treating me and some other guys really good there for a while but the last time we took something to them they had changed their ways and put a minimum price on getting stuff done and didn't seem as friendly. Taking stuff in sand blasted as opposed to needing sand blasted makes a big difference too.

Tony, are you referring to the bolt that when tightened clamps the stud of the upper ball joint into the knuckle? I took the nut off, pounded out the bolt, and then pryed the two sides of the knucle apart with a small pry bar while tapping the ball joint stud out with a hammer.

Former owner of 94 Bird with DOHC 4.6L swapped from a mark VIII

2011 CTS-V Wagon
1968 Torino was an original 289, C4, fully documented numbers matching car. Now: DOHC 4.6L/T-56 swapped, Cobra intake, IMRC delete, BBK long tubes and H pipe. Dynotech Aluminum Driveshaft, 9" rear with TrueTrac and 4.11's.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 06:56 AM
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Where to get these?

After finding out KB no longer makes these parts where can I get some? How do I get some JLs?

Thanks

14-year SC owner - '93 SC AOD (non-locking TC)

It's only impossible until we do it.

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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablon2
After finding out KB no longer makes these parts where can I get some? How do I get some JLs?

Thanks
send Johnny Langton a PM.




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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Man, I wish my powder coat still looked that good. Those front suspension braces have kind of taken a beating up there.

Former owner of 94 Bird with DOHC 4.6L swapped from a mark VIII

2011 CTS-V Wagon
1968 Torino was an original 289, C4, fully documented numbers matching car. Now: DOHC 4.6L/T-56 swapped, Cobra intake, IMRC delete, BBK long tubes and H pipe. Dynotech Aluminum Driveshaft, 9" rear with TrueTrac and 4.11's.
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