Got the suspension all back together - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-17-2004, 01:26 AM Thread Starter
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Got the suspension all back together

For those of you that have been reading some of my posts in here and asking how I like the stuff, I finally got it all back togther, alligned today, and drove it tonight. For those of you who read this and have no clue what I did here it is:

1 3/8" Addco Sway Bars
Entire Polyurethane bushing kit, the whole car
JL's braces; all but the front shock tower, this means I did rear shock tower, subframe connectors, rear torsional load brace, and lower front suspension/engine cradle braces
New Moog upper and lower control arms and new front end links
Previously installed on the car were Eibachs and Bilsteins

I drove the car around town a little, drove it a couple hours on the highway, and then around town some more.

The car handles BEAUTIFULLY! I turn, it just goes where I point it, no slow roll into the turn. You move the wheel, you better be sure thats where you want to go. It is awesome. Going to be fun at the auto x on Sunday if it doesn't rain, if it does rain, I am guessing the old set up without all the new stuff would be better just because there isn't a lot of grip to be had in the rain, big sway bars don't do anything without the tires gripping.

Now, the BAD. I have a very high tolerance for harsh things. I think my car could shift harder...I have the 3rd level J-mod done, with a chip AND 4.10's, so it shifts real hard, but I am totally fine with it, doesn't bother me, I love it. But these polyurethane bushings are going to drive me nuts. After one day they are already rattling and clunking. It isn't bad on the highway, you don't really notice, but in town, it is VERY annoying. I would not recommend to anyone putting poly bushings in the pivot points on the front suspension. I don't notice anything in the rear suspension really, but the front end is rattling and clunking like its coming apart, but it is all put together just fine. But them on the strut rods, put them on your differential, put them on your rack, your crossmember, and your rear knuckles, but it you put them in the front pivots, you'll be sorry. Just buy the new front control arms and use the rubber bushings that come with them. I greased the bushings very well. I used all of the tubes of grease that came with them and used an entire tube of this ford stuff that was stickier yet.

I'm not sure what I'll do now. Maybe get a cage put in so I can run in faster classes at open road rallies like the Silver State Shootout in Nevada and there is one here in Nebraska too. I might as well put the cage in, because with these bushings clunking around it isn't much of a street car.

Former owner of 94 Bird with DOHC 4.6L swapped from a mark VIII

2011 CTS-V Wagon
1968 Torino was an original 289, C4, fully documented numbers matching car. Now: DOHC 4.6L/T-56 swapped, Cobra intake, IMRC delete, BBK long tubes and H pipe. Dynotech Aluminum Driveshaft, 9" rear with TrueTrac and 4.11's.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-17-2004, 12:17 PM
 
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pics
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-17-2004, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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There are pics in other posts with all the stuff off the car, some pics of all the powder coated pieces and such. If you do a search through my posts inthe suspension section, you'll find quite a few pictures. I didn't really take any more after that.

Former owner of 94 Bird with DOHC 4.6L swapped from a mark VIII

2011 CTS-V Wagon
1968 Torino was an original 289, C4, fully documented numbers matching car. Now: DOHC 4.6L/T-56 swapped, Cobra intake, IMRC delete, BBK long tubes and H pipe. Dynotech Aluminum Driveshaft, 9" rear with TrueTrac and 4.11's.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-18-2004, 03:19 AM Thread Starter
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WELL, I found my problem. I apologize to the bushings for blaming them. I just knew everything was bolted together nice and tight and that I was hearing aweful noises. I had a passenger that said he could feel it in the floor. So we knew it was something making contact with something else. It ended up being the sway bar hitting the metal above it. Looked like it would be ok, but it wasn't, nothing a Sawzall couldn't handle.

So that is resolved, and the car is ready to auto x tomorrow If I can get up that early.

I only put one spacer under each end of the bar. It came with two for each end. In order to put the collars on that come with the bar, you have to put one spacer in. I don't see the point of the second one and it wouldn't even bolt together using the stock bolts with the second one there. But it would hit the metal above it more with the second one in there. I would say put one in for the colalrs and forget the other. If you don't want the collars, then don't put either in and you probably won't need the sawzall. The slots in the spacers are also too small and need drilled out with a 25/32nd's bit. It doesn't take much but the bolts didn't go through the holes without doing that.

I know there was another thread addressing the sway bar installation spacer issue (that should be a search catch all ) But this is all my thoughts on it.

Former owner of 94 Bird with DOHC 4.6L swapped from a mark VIII

2011 CTS-V Wagon
1968 Torino was an original 289, C4, fully documented numbers matching car. Now: DOHC 4.6L/T-56 swapped, Cobra intake, IMRC delete, BBK long tubes and H pipe. Dynotech Aluminum Driveshaft, 9" rear with TrueTrac and 4.11's.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-18-2004, 09:58 AM
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So..you like how it goes the direction you point it now eh?
JL

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-18-2004, 10:52 AM
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I know you couldn't use the standard STB because of the custom engine, but if you can find a way to get one made that'll fit, do it! The STB does wonders for the handling of these beasts. Well worth the hassle.

God Bless and Fly Low!

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-18-2004, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I wasn't used to the car at all today at the auto x, I kept cutting corners to short and making the apex to early because I'm not used to the responsiveness. Then we had some crappy super windy weather that kept blowing cones away, so the day got cut short on runs. I was improving for sure. If we had gotten the number of runs we should have for the course length and number of cars, I could have done quite a bit better yet I think.

I beat a Roush Cobra by .001 seconds though as it was. And got 2nd in my class, got wasted by a fox body though in class. I don't have any idea what one of the cars in my class was, but there was a WRX that I beat handily. Looking forward to the next one for sure.

Time for new brakes for sure! I never realized now truely inadequate the brakes were until the car really moved off the corners.

Former owner of 94 Bird with DOHC 4.6L swapped from a mark VIII

2011 CTS-V Wagon
1968 Torino was an original 289, C4, fully documented numbers matching car. Now: DOHC 4.6L/T-56 swapped, Cobra intake, IMRC delete, BBK long tubes and H pipe. Dynotech Aluminum Driveshaft, 9" rear with TrueTrac and 4.11's.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-18-2004, 10:51 PM
 
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Sounds great!
What tires/wheels are you running?
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-18-2004, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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I am running the Dante Design Bullitt replicas, the ones sold by custom wheels market and perfomance wheel outlet. 17 x 8's in the front and 18 x 9's in the back. Not the best set up for auto x probably but it works pretty decent. I am running 245/45 and 255/45 GoodYear Eagle F1 GS-D3's and I love them. They seem to be holding up pretty well through 4 auto x's, a few thousand miles and a few trips to the drag strip. They have a lot of grip in corners and at the strip for a true street tire. And they own the rain.

Former owner of 94 Bird with DOHC 4.6L swapped from a mark VIII

2011 CTS-V Wagon
1968 Torino was an original 289, C4, fully documented numbers matching car. Now: DOHC 4.6L/T-56 swapped, Cobra intake, IMRC delete, BBK long tubes and H pipe. Dynotech Aluminum Driveshaft, 9" rear with TrueTrac and 4.11's.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-19-2004, 09:14 AM
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Have you had any trouble going into angled driveways with those 1 3/8 bars?
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-19-2004, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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I lifted a rear wheel off the ground driving into the parking lot at work this morning, it is VERY steep though. It would lift slightly with the sock bars sometimes. Made some intersting moments before I had limited slip.

Former owner of 94 Bird with DOHC 4.6L swapped from a mark VIII

2011 CTS-V Wagon
1968 Torino was an original 289, C4, fully documented numbers matching car. Now: DOHC 4.6L/T-56 swapped, Cobra intake, IMRC delete, BBK long tubes and H pipe. Dynotech Aluminum Driveshaft, 9" rear with TrueTrac and 4.11's.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-19-2004, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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I was looking at some pictures, one of the other cars in my class that I beat was an Evo VIII

In class kills on two turbo AWD cars and some big time Mustang kills. Not a bad day at the auto x for the 3800 lb T-bird

Former owner of 94 Bird with DOHC 4.6L swapped from a mark VIII

2011 CTS-V Wagon
1968 Torino was an original 289, C4, fully documented numbers matching car. Now: DOHC 4.6L/T-56 swapped, Cobra intake, IMRC delete, BBK long tubes and H pipe. Dynotech Aluminum Driveshaft, 9" rear with TrueTrac and 4.11's.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-19-2004, 01:54 PM
 
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Congrats, man, it sounds great.
And any day a T-Bird sticks it to anyone else its a good day!
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