Upper A Arm Install Thanks... - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-20-2004, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Upper A Arm Install Thanks...

Last week I replaced the upper A-arms on my 94 because they were shot and ready to fall off.

Now mind you, I've had this to 6 different shops/dealerships to find a popping in the front suspension while turning.... and I quote, “We can’t find anything wrong, the suspension is tight”…. Well then they must have been friggin’ BLIND!!! Have I mentioned lately that I hate shops/dealerships...

The left ball joint had approx 1/4" of vertical play (yes, 1/4") and the right had about 1/8" vertical play.

Anyway, the install went without a hitch and all the nuts and bolts came out without any problems. So now I have new upper’s with poly bushings, new front shocks, freshly turned (non-warped) rotors, and new caliper pins and boots.

I just wanted to say thanks to whomever posted about getting the ratcheting wrench. I can't imagine doing that job without that tool!!

So thanks!

97 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC (Chip'd, 3.73 T/L... so far... )
97 Ford Aspire (Slow, but getting 36 mpg (f'n Ethenol!! )
84 F250 Dually w/6.9L Diesel (7.3L IDI pending)
73 Mercury Cougar Convertible w/351C 4V (Partially Restored)
69 F100 LWB w/460 Engine
76 Glastron Carlson 23' Jet Boat w/460 CJ Engine
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-20-2004, 11:23 AM
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I've done it without a ratcheting wrench. It was in the dark with a trouble light, and I kept thinking to myself..."This is what a ratcheting wrench was designed for....I wish I had one!"

Oh well, I've got to do it on my Cougar soon, so I'll get the wrench this time!

Glen "RustyUL" Weldon

94 Thunderbird SC - 5 Speed -- Picture Here
1 of 722 1994 SC 5-speeds made.
Soilid Engine Mounts, B&M Ripper Shifter, Tokico Shocks
95 Thunderbird LX - 4.6
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-20-2004, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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I bought two specifically for this job:

18 mm standard boxed/open end to break the nuts loose (I had one, but it was short, so I bought a newer longer one)
18 mm ratcheting boxed/open end to remove the nut.

Worked like a champ!

I'll eventually buy a complete set.

97 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC (Chip'd, 3.73 T/L... so far... )
97 Ford Aspire (Slow, but getting 36 mpg (f'n Ethenol!! )
84 F250 Dually w/6.9L Diesel (7.3L IDI pending)
73 Mercury Cougar Convertible w/351C 4V (Partially Restored)
69 F100 LWB w/460 Engine
76 Glastron Carlson 23' Jet Boat w/460 CJ Engine
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-20-2004, 05:18 PM
 
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You're Welcome!!!!!!!! Glad someone took my advice finally, makes it a much easier job.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-20-2004, 06:24 PM
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I did it without the racheting wrench because the racheting wrench set I had was SAE not metric It probably would have been a lot easier had I actually been able to use them.

1994 Thunderbird LX V8

Still in pieces in the garage awaiting body work, paint, and a drivetrain...

Currently driving a 98 Mustang GT convertible:
02 Explorer engine, Comp 262ah cams, Steeda underdrives, aftermarket H-pipe with high flow cats, SLP LM1 exhaust, MGW shifter, RAM clutch
[email protected], 2.17 60ft(stock 2.73s, worn-out trac-lok)
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