LCA/Strut bolt - removal tips? - TCCoA Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-22-2004, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Kevin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Vineland Ontario
Age: 40
Posts: 1,382
Send a message via AIM to Kevin
LCA/Strut bolt - removal tips?

Trying to get my old shock/strut assembly out, and the bolt that holds it to the lower control arm is being a royal c*nt .

Any tips on getting this thing out? I've been pounding on it already, and the bolt is starting to mushroom. The head won't turn, even after the clip that keeps it from turning has been removed.

I have done a search and found that there is something that has to be split? Looked on both sides but didn't see anything uncommon.

The car is old, and it's probably rusted in there.

Will an impact do the trick?

1992 Mercury Cougar XR7 5.0 - Rust In Pieces
1995 Mercury Cougar XR7, rust free Florida car - future 5.0 project
Kevin is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-22-2004, 05:19 PM
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 168
I've never used an impact on one, but it's worth a shot. Worst case scenario, you can always cut the bolt off and drive it out with a punch or screwdriver. You have to buy a new bolt anyways, so you've got nothing to lose. I got lucky, mine wasn't rusted and it came out relatively easy.

I'm sure somebody on here can help you out more than I did, just thought I'd offer my opinion.


Good luck,


Brian.
Fathead.97.LX is offline  
post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-22-2004, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Kevin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Vineland Ontario
Age: 40
Posts: 1,382
Send a message via AIM to Kevin
I gotta buy a new one anyways then Brian? Well then, I do have a nice saw-sawl that rarely gets used .

So if I'm going to cut/grind the little beggers out, what do I replace them with - OEM Ford bolts, or just visit my local hardware store and get some Grade 8 bolts (or whatever grade is recomended)?

I hate dealing with my local dealer - it's like he's conning me and I go along with it knowingly .
Kevin is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-22-2004, 07:41 PM
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 168
Well, if you could get the bolt out without cutting it maybe you could re-use it. I'm just assuming that if the bolt is that much of a b*tch to get loose that it's pretty much shot even if you don't have to cut it.

For something like that, I would think you would have to go to the dealer to get the correct part. That's what I would do anyways...even though I hate hate hate buying parts from the dealer because of that not-so-fresh feeling that a person always has after making a purchase there.

I'm sure somebody else can offer some more insight...I'm no mastertech, I'm just merely offering my opinion because I know how frustrating these things can be.

take care,

Brian.
Fathead.97.LX is offline  
post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-22-2004, 08:37 PM
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,205
Man, what's up with everyone having so much trouble with that bolt? I just use a hammer and punch, and they slide right out, but I'd suspect yours is held in there with a bunch of rust. You can try to zap it with an impact, if you can get to it, and try to loosen it up, but get some PB Blaster, and keep spraying and working on it. Search through the last weeks threads also, 2 other people have had this same problem.
Rich95XR7 is offline  
post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-22-2004, 10:05 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
FordFanatic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: sell out lane
Posts: 3,192
you can get in there with an impact, done it many times. spray it down then work the impact back and forth. if all else fails cut it off and go get some from ford, they are called cam bolts.
FordFanatic is offline  
post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-22-2004, 10:10 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
4 Cam Bird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Claswon, MI
Age: 38
Posts: 2,314
Send a message via AIM to 4 Cam Bird
I busted a 21 MM socket holding the nut on that the first time I did it (at least I think that is what I broke that socket on). But I was able to get it out by hand, I don't think I even used any penatrating oil on it?

Former owner of 94 Bird with DOHC 4.6L swapped from a mark VIII

2011 CTS-V Wagon
1968 Torino was an original 289, C4, fully documented numbers matching car. Now: DOHC 4.6L/T-56 swapped, Cobra intake, IMRC delete, BBK long tubes and H pipe. Dynotech Aluminum Driveshaft, 9" rear with TrueTrac and 4.11's.
4 Cam Bird is offline  
post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-22-2004, 11:08 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
FordFanatic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: sell out lane
Posts: 3,192
was it a regular socket or an impact socket? ive never broken an impact socket before so im just curious. also on a side note its probably a good idea to replace the cam bolt anyways as the nut is a lock nut and shouldnt be re-used.
FordFanatic is offline  
post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-23-2004, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Kevin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Vineland Ontario
Age: 40
Posts: 1,382
Send a message via AIM to Kevin
Well I'll give it one more go now that it's had a night soaked in WD40 (what's PB blaster anyways ).

If that doesn't work - I'll get my brother to bring his air tank and impact over. More than likely the head will just twist off the bolt.

Yeah, I don't know why it's being such a ***** - even though there's probably rust in there, I'm no wimp and have been smashing the stuff out of that bolt, and it won't move.

So if I'm looking for Cam bolts - I'll check my hardware store first - I HATE my local dealer's parts and service 'advisors'. Ford's biggest problem right there, lousy service.

Oh, about the search - I did that, and there was talk about something getting split in there, and didn't know what to split, or what to look for. Unless that only applies to later models or something.

Thanks guys,

Kevin.

1992 Mercury Cougar XR7 5.0 - Rust In Pieces
1995 Mercury Cougar XR7, rust free Florida car - future 5.0 project
Kevin is offline  
post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-23-2004, 12:03 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
FordFanatic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: sell out lane
Posts: 3,192
pb blaster is kinda like wd-40 except alot better. one other quick tip, jack up on the control arm to let off the pressure on that bolt when you go to take it out.
FordFanatic is offline  
post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-23-2004, 12:11 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
4 Cam Bird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Claswon, MI
Age: 38
Posts: 2,314
Send a message via AIM to 4 Cam Bird
PB blaster is a type of penatrating oil. It seems to work the best for removing rusted fasteners.

It was a chrome socket that a broke (the 21MM). Just broke it with a regular breaker bar. No cheater or anything.

Former owner of 94 Bird with DOHC 4.6L swapped from a mark VIII

2011 CTS-V Wagon
1968 Torino was an original 289, C4, fully documented numbers matching car. Now: DOHC 4.6L/T-56 swapped, Cobra intake, IMRC delete, BBK long tubes and H pipe. Dynotech Aluminum Driveshaft, 9" rear with TrueTrac and 4.11's.
4 Cam Bird is offline  
post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-23-2004, 12:12 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Cullman, AL
Age: 56
Posts: 7,758
Send a message via AIM to 94 Daily Driven 4.6L
Quote:
Originally posted by FordFanatic
pb blaster is kinda like wd-40 except alot better....
A lot, lot better!!

I've used them both as a penetrating fluid, and the PB Blaster runs circles around WD-40.

You probably won't want to hear this, but I just did mine a few days ago and I was able to push most of the bolts out by hand, including the upper A arm ball joint bolt.

But the day before I had soaked everything with the PB Blaster. And the fact that this car has never seen snow or salt probably helps.

Good luck.

97 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC (Chip'd, 3.73 T/L... so far... )
97 Ford Aspire (Slow, but getting 36 mpg (f'n Ethenol!! )
84 F250 Dually w/6.9L Diesel (7.3L IDI pending)
73 Mercury Cougar Convertible w/351C 4V (Partially Restored)
69 F100 LWB w/460 Engine
76 Glastron Carlson 23' Jet Boat w/460 CJ Engine
94 Daily Driven 4.6L is offline  
post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-23-2004, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Kevin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Vineland Ontario
Age: 40
Posts: 1,382
Send a message via AIM to Kevin
Quote:
the fact that this car has never seen snow or salt probably helps.
Yeah, that's probably why .

Well, I physical with it again today, and with no better results even after letting it sit overnight with the WD40.

Am going to see if Canadian Tire carries the PB Blaster stuff, if they don't - nobody else will have it up here either.

There isn't any of the car's weight on the bolt, the strut is unbolted at the top and the suspension is fully relaxed.

But if I'm resigned to buying new bolts anyways - may as well just butcher the thing.

What I've got to do is find a nice FL or GA car, something that's never seen salt. My brother picked up a Mustang from OK a year or two ago, and even though it's a 15 year old body - everything comes apart so nice.

1992 Mercury Cougar XR7 5.0 - Rust In Pieces
1995 Mercury Cougar XR7, rust free Florida car - future 5.0 project
Kevin is offline  
post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-24-2004, 07:11 PM
Veteran Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Age: 42
Posts: 708
The solution is surprisingly simple, and im almost offended that your thread got this big and noone could reliably answer your question.
that bolt runs through a split metal sleeve. its holdin on to that friggin bolt. sharpen a screwdriver, or punch, and split it open just a hair, bolt will slide out.
took me two days to figure it out.
impact guns at this stage will only ruin your bushings

94 V8 on 17" custom paint, R.I.P
97 Mark VIII LSC yeah
08 Ford Edge, white for now
modbird is offline  
post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-25-2004, 10:03 AM
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 20
I had a problem getting that shock to lca bolt out, i beat on that with a hammer, used a puller, to no avail. So what I did was put an open end wrench between the lca and ear on the shock, over the rubber bushing, then one wack with the hammer and it was out. That works because the rubber bushing it rides in soaks up the impact of the hammer when you beat on it, but if you put the wrench in there, it keeps the force of the impact on the bolt instead of letting the rubber soak it up.
Curt is offline  
post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-25-2004, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Kevin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Vineland Ontario
Age: 40
Posts: 1,382
Send a message via AIM to Kevin
Hey Modbird,

you're saying there's a sleeve that's holding the bolt tight, inside the bushing?

I'm assuming the part you'd split would be the side where the nut came off?

Does it split horizontaly, or vertically? I'm not at home at the moment, but will try out your tip in the morning.

Also Curt, the wrench se4ems like a good idea, will try that as well if the splitting doesn't work.
Kevin is offline  
post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-25-2004, 08:02 PM
Veteran Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Age: 42
Posts: 708
yeah, just take a look at it, clean it good and youll see the split line. it runs the length of the sleeve. surprisingly simple once you see it. i beat the living sh1t out of mine for two days before i saw the little line. i sharpened a screwdriver and hammered it in there, that bolt poped right out. good luck

94 V8 on 17" custom paint, R.I.P
97 Mark VIII LSC yeah
08 Ford Edge, white for now
modbird is offline  
post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-26-2004, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Kevin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Vineland Ontario
Age: 40
Posts: 1,382
Send a message via AIM to Kevin
Hmmm, took a wire brush to it this aft, and never seen the line.

Didn't matter anyways, my brother showed up with his air compressor and we simply used the air-hammer to pound the bolts out.

Both bolts are fine (need ends ground a bit), and no damage to the bushings.

All we gotta do now is get the springs and shocks changed over and I can put it all back together .

Thanks for all the help guys,

Kevin.

1992 Mercury Cougar XR7 5.0 - Rust In Pieces
1995 Mercury Cougar XR7, rust free Florida car - future 5.0 project
Kevin is offline  
post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-16-2004, 09:16 PM
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 364
I'm doing my fronts right now.... this is insane.

I finally cut the shock off the car to get it out of the way. I used some rust check spray stuff and borrowed some Lloyds MOOVEIT tonight.. sprayed it on.

With the nut of I was able to turn the bolt and the sleeve, then I was able to jsut torn the botl by its self. Me swinging a baby sledge i cant get this thing to move. Sharpened a flatbastard. pounding on that tog et the sleeve open, no go.

I borrowed my teachers air chisel and gun. I'm probably going to go and rent a compressor to see if I can get this ***** pounded out. I was this close to just taking the LCA out and buying a new one but that bolt seems like its being a whore aswell..



that was just before I cut the shock out...
SkunkWorks is offline  
post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-16-2004, 09:35 PM
Whining Intakes Rock
Moderator
 
Al_Florida's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Englewood, FL
Posts: 3,645
I would have taken a cut off tool to it a long time ago... you must have more patience than me. I better go get some more air tool goodies before I tackle my front end.

_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/ I like intakes that whine \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_

# SELECT * FROM users WHERE clue > 0;
# 0 rows returned
# drop table users;_
Al_Florida is offline  
post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-16-2004, 09:37 PM
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 364
Quote:
Originally posted by Al_Florida
I would have taken a cut off tool to it a long time ago... you must have more patience than me. I better go get some more air tool goodies before I tackle my front end.
cut off tool to what... the bolt? so then I have half a bolt stuck in...?

SkunkWorks is offline  
post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-17-2004, 05:12 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,514
I had that exact problem when i worked on the left part of my car a few months ago and i would have cut both openingd for the bolt but i did not have a replacement. Yesterday i started putting my new shocks and springs on and luckily the right side came right out no problem
MattsLE97 is offline  
post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-17-2004, 11:46 AM
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 364
cut what?

now i'm at a cross...

if I do get the bolt out the bushing might be shot and I need a new LCA.... but I gotta get the inner LCA bolt out now...

Last edited by SkunkWorks; 06-17-2004 at 11:51 AM.
SkunkWorks is offline  
post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-17-2004, 03:46 PM
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 364
Tools needed for fron shocks removal.........



will take them to school to see if I can BASH the bolts out...

atleast there off the car.

Last edited by SkunkWorks; 06-17-2004 at 04:04 PM.
SkunkWorks is offline  
post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-17-2004, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
PostWhore
 
Kevin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Vineland Ontario
Age: 40
Posts: 1,382
Send a message via AIM to Kevin
Wow, and I thought I had it bad.

I didn't even want to consider trying to get the bolts out of the body, gave up and did the air hammer thing too.

It basically rattles the **** out of the bolt, causing it to jiggle out. Surprised it didn't work for you, took under a minute each side once we got started on it.

Good luck getting the bolts out bud!

1992 Mercury Cougar XR7 5.0 - Rust In Pieces
1995 Mercury Cougar XR7, rust free Florida car - future 5.0 project
Kevin is offline  
post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-17-2004, 06:43 PM
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 364
my buddy will take them to work and use a hydraulic press to push the bolts out.
SkunkWorks is offline  
post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-17-2004, 06:48 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
FordFanatic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: sell out lane
Posts: 3,192
why not just buy new bolts from ford? then when you put them in coat em with anit-seize and you wont have to worry about them ever again.
FordFanatic is offline  
post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-17-2004, 08:06 PM
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 364
Quote:
Originally posted by FordFanatic
why not just buy new bolts from ford? then when you put them in coat em with anit-seize and you wont have to worry about them ever again.
Buy new bolts and put them where??? I need the ****ing hole not the bolt...

SkunkWorks is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome