I'm out of ideas on this suspension problem - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-07-2004, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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I'm out of ideas on this suspension problem

Ever since I replaced the front rotors (@151k) I have had a clunk (at random times) in the front end. Well, it has gotten much worse lately(@196k), and the brakes have started to plug to the left. I also just started getting a "grinding" when I was turning at parking lot speeds. It was time for new pads, so I replaced the pads and turned the rotors. The front end noises went away for about a week, until yesterday day. They are all back. Since it was still pulling, I replaced the calipers today. No change today. Same clunking and pulling.

I've had the car to 4 different shops to look for the source of the "clunk". Everyone wasn't able to find anything wrong with it. I was even with them looking at it to, no play or site of worn out bushings. Even today, I checked out the bushings on the anti-sway bar, no movement or signs of wear.

What else I have replaced fairly recently? - Both upper control arms and strut rod bushings both sides.

So with no signs of any bad suspension parts, weird sounds (Clunking and occasional grinding) up front, with all new brakes except lines, and the brakes still pull to the left. What's left to check? The alignment? That wouldn't cause any weird sounds though. Anyway, give me some thoughts.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-07-2004, 08:08 PM
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heh door pins??

weirld i had a `clunk' whenever i went over a bump or applied the brakes, specialy te brakes.. and i even kinda felt it in the brake pedal...

Till one day for some demented reason i decided to apply the brakes with the door open and it went away, shut the door and it came back

Just a weird thought..
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-07-2004, 08:20 PM
 
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frame bolts.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-08-2004, 01:30 AM Thread Starter
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I do need new door pins/bushings. Tell me more about these frame bolts.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-09-2004, 10:18 PM
 
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I'm in a similar situation. No pulling though. I just changed my calipers, rotors, endlinks, pads, tie rods, lower control arms, upper control arms, strut bushings (all 4), shocks, shock mounts, springs, and the noise is STILL there. I'm getting highly dissappointed and hope that maybe someone could shed some light on our probs. Tomorrow i go in for an alignment after the installation of all that crap. I just hope maybe a bolt is loose or something and they'll tighten it. If not then i'll be posting back on the forums. hehe
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-13-2004, 08:45 AM
 
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I had the brake pull to the left finally fixed last week on my '96 T-bird @ 121K. I also replaced both front calipers (twice in one week), new front brake hoses, turned rotors and still a pull. Tech finally found that the lower ball joint was shot and allowing the spindle to move just enough to turn left. Also replaced the left tension strut bushings which were bad also. Brakes nice and straight now and seems tighter. I had previously changed out both upper control arms w/ ball joints last fall. This eliminated the knocking noise I had and really tightened up the front end feel big time!
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-13-2004, 09:02 AM
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I'm going to lean towards ball joints.

Put the car on stands and grab the wheel. Try to move it in all directions. It shouldn't move. If it does, find where the "play" is and go from there.

I had a clunking in my front end from 146K miles to 265K miles and had a total of 8 shops look at it (3 dealerships and 5 shops). They "could never find anything wrong".

I put it on a lift and could move the tire up and inward 1/4" (1/8" on the passenger side)!!! The upper ball joints were shot. I HATE SHOPS!!!

When I replaced the A-arms a few weekends ago, I could hold the old A-arm, and hit the ball joint stud and it would swing back and forth a few times like a pendulum!!! It was that worn out!

As far as the brakes pulling, are you also replacing the slider pins/bushings and boots and lubing then well?

Just my .02.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-13-2004, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 94 Daily Driven 4.6L
I'm going to lean towards ball joints.

Put the car on stands and grab the wheel. Try to move it in all directions. It shouldn't move. If it does, find where the "play" is and go from there.
In my experience, you can't always get the ball joints to move by hand, especially the lower. Another way is to get the wheels about 3 inches off the ground, get a 3 or 4 foot crowbar (or similar) and put one end under the wheel and push up on the other end.

Just a thought,
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-13-2004, 10:53 AM
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Maybe front hub bearings?

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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-13-2004, 12:28 PM
 
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try the frame bolts !!!
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-14-2004, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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I replaced the outer tie rod end on the drivers side and it seems much better, but it still making some noises. I'll try to get the lower ball joint to move, but I don't think my problem is that there is too much play in it, I think its that it's starting to lock up. At least that what this mechanic that I trust thought.
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-14-2004, 10:47 PM
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I would guess sway bar links or tierods.

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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-19-2004, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by turbospeed
try the frame bolts !!!
I'm curious...would you mind shedding some light on this for those of us who don't know what to look for? If you can supply a part number, or photograph of what to look at, it would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks!
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-20-2004, 01:06 AM
 
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theyre the subframe bolts there are two in each side of the car (front) ,they hold the body/subframe together, someitmes when they get lose the body is hitting againstthe subframe , thus making the clunk.

you only have to tighten them , look at the underside of you car thyre 2 18mm bolts .
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-20-2004, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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I think I know what you are talking about, I'll try to take a picture of what I think you are talking about. I'll try to post it tonight.
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-20-2004, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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I made a whole web page about my suspension problem, including some picutres of what I think the frame bolts are. Anyway, here it is
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-29-2004, 01:51 PM
 
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Your webpage said your suspension makes an "old metal creaking/popping noise"? That (in my experience) is a warning from your ball joints, usually the lowers. My bird made those noises once, and she was telling me there was trouble with the balljoints. I ignored her, and sure enough, one let go.

I've never heard of balljoints "locking up". They're a load-bearing moving part, and get looser with time, not tighter. The lower suspension on our cars was designed by an idiot. Examine the forces sometime; the system tries to pull the joint apart.

I'm replacing the driver's side lower balljoint in a few hours, so pm me if you've got any questions. I did the uppers last night, and the strut assemblies too.
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-31-2004, 06:12 PM
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My door did the same thing. Body shop fixed it when they painted my car.

Looked for ever for that noise.

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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-15-2008, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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I know this is a old thread that I started, but it was the lower ball joint that was causing the problems.

Now the other side is just now starting to do the same thing so I guess it is time to replace it.

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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-15-2008, 10:38 PM
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im guessing wheel bearings jack up the car and grab the tire at 6 and 12 and see if any play and check to see if the spindle is moving if the tire has play yet the spindle dosent move its most likely wheel bearings. I dont even know how the wheel bearings are set up on the mn12s but ive had a bearing go out on trucks ive had with the same symptoms your describing. is the front end squirly at all?

clunking grinding and pulling is ussually the common bearing sounds that start out with a slight noise coming and going

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post #21 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-15-2008, 11:35 PM
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missycougar.... You're from KC and yet we never hear from you or see you at the meets?? awwwwww come on now... We've got some stuff coming up, join us!

SCCA meet in Salina the 29th and 30th of March and another meet in Springfield in April. Pay attention to the Missouri chapter forum for updates.

And I'm glad you got your problem worked out. Now if only I could get mine fixed....


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post #22 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-15-2008, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traveler View Post
missycougar.... You're from KC and yet we never hear from you or see you at the meets?? awwwwww come on now... We've got some stuff coming up, join us!

SCCA meet in Salina the 29th and 30th of March and another meet in Springfield in April. Pay attention to the Missouri chapter forum for updates.

And I'm glad you got your problem worked out. Now if only I could get mine fixed....
I do need to meet some of the locals. I'm been away from the MN-12's and the Marks for the last couple years, but within the last 6 months I've bought a 96 Mark and my baby 96 Cougar back, thus my return to the forum. I'm just surprised I remembered my password.

PM some info or links about the KC meets. Or I guess I could just go to that forum.

Salina! My 220k Cougar won't go that far. ;-) Just playing, I'm getting it ready to go to California this summer.

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post #23 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-16-2008, 12:12 AM
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Well here are a few places:

http://forums.tccoa.com/forumdisplay.php?f=76

http://forums.tccoa.com/forumdisplay.php?f=83

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=57

The chatter thread is a good way to get to know folks, and the "midwesttccoa" thread in the sccoa link. Just drop in, say hi, and I'm sure they'll all be happy to say hello. I get up to KC pretty often as my folks, cousins, etc. live up there.


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Wifes Car
destined to remain stock

1997 T-Bird GT 4.6
80 MM Mustang GT MAF - P&P'd Mustang GT TB and Intake Plenum - PI Intake manifold - PI Heads
Mark VIII Torque Converter - J-Modded 4R70W transmission - Mark VIII Aluminum Driveshaft - 3.73 gears
PBR Brake Calipers - Eibach Springs - KYB Shocks
'89 SuperCoupe front and rear sway bars
SCT Chip programmed by Lonnie Doll
255/50/16 Falken Ziex ZE-512's
True Dual exhaust with Magnaflow DI/DO muffler
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