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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-15-2004, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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front sway bar end links

can you use a pickle bar to remove them instead of the special bar they state in Chilton
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-15-2004, 08:36 PM
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IIRC, they simply unbolt from the spindle, and swaybar - don't see why you'd need a pickel fork for that .

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-16-2004, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
 
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well they just don't pop out or pull our so i need some ideas besides having to get that special "ford" tool to get them out. thanks
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-16-2004, 12:44 PM
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A 3lb baby sledge worked for me.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-16-2004, 03:23 PM
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Recently I had to disconnect the top of both endlinks when doing spring work.

I found that a 3lb baby sledge worked just fine too.

You must be having problems with the end that attaches to the swaybar?

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-16-2004, 10:48 PM
 
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For the sway bar end of the end link, try a piece of 2x4 to wedge between the end of the sway bar and the spindle, or something else that is solid. This will keep the swaybar from "springing" when you whack the end of the stud. I had to use a long extension with a socket (fit over the end of the stud to hold the extension in place, which is used as a drift or punch) in order to get the mini-sledge far enough out to get a good swing. Those links can be a real b++ch to get out laying on the driveway with the car on jack stands. Having the car on a lift helps immensely!
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-19-2004, 09:54 PM
 
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The bushing end on my end links are shot and I think they are causing that infamous rattle over bumps and unsmoth roads. Do you have to replace the whole end link or can you just get new bushings for the ens that connest to the sway bar aand to the spindle?
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-21-2004, 01:12 PM
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The rattle from the endlinks will drive you crazy. You've got to replace the whole endlink. Price was about $80 for both from Advanced Auto with lifetime warranty. Slightly cheaper for those with a 3 month warranty. The open jaws of a 10" adjustable wrench were just the right thickness to drive between the endlink and the swaybar to pop the bolt out without having to whack away at the swaybar with a BFH. Use a BFH to remove the end from the spindle. The most time consuming part of the repair is jacking the car up and removing the tire.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-21-2004, 01:50 PM
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i used a pickle fork to remove the swaybar end of the endlink, works great, just pounded it once and it popped right outta there like nothing, the end links are not serviceable, they have to be replaced.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-24-2004, 09:46 PM
 
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Did my endlinks this morning and if it is the first time you will need a fork to get them out. I am a big guy and I couldn't do anything with them until I got the fork. They are out and the new one are in and the wheel chatter is GONE. Silence is beutiful. The driveshaft comes out tomorrow for a spin balance and new Joints.....finally I can get back to the track.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-24-2004, 11:14 PM
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Smash Forehead on Keyboard to Continue....

2004 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
Pioneer DEH-P6000UB Infinity 2 way 6x8's, and Eclipse 5x7 3 ways, Fultron Tweets, Infinity 1211A, Alpine SWR-1222D Type-R 12.

1999 VW New Beetle SOLD!

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1994 F150 XL 5.0L 4R70W Current Project.


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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-24-2004, 11:39 PM
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Nothing like the right tool for the yob mon.

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