replacing front strut rod bushings - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-26-2004, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
 
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replacing front strut rod bushings

Went and got my car inspected today and was told I need to get the bushings replaced to pass. They told me the passenger side bushing was pretty much gone and the drivers side isn't in too good of shape either. They quoted me almost $200 to replace them and $60 for an alignment.

My question is how hard is it to replace just the bushings? I found this on mn12performance's front suspension kit. I have a Haynes manual, will that have more info on how to do this? ( Currently the manual is in my girlfriends car, so I can't check it) So if I take off my front tire, should I be able to see where the bushings should be or do I need to take off more parts? Sorry, it's been a while since I've had the front tire off and I'm kinda in the dark working on suspension. Only thing I've done suspension wise is help change springs on a mustang.

One more thing, can I pick up the front strut rod bushings at a local parts store ie Advance Auto, etc.?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-26-2004, 10:44 AM
 
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They aren't too hard to replace, you should be able to do it with no problems, you just have to have a BIG wrench for the front bolt, I can't remember what size it is off the top of my head. You can get the bushings at any local autoparts store. Just make sure you schedule a front end alignment afterwards, because it will be way off.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-26-2004, 11:28 AM
 
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You're going to need i believe a 21MM socket for the rear of the strut rod bushings. For the front one's at the frame 30MM wrench/socket is required. I will double check these values later on today.

The parts can be found at advance, however RockAuto has the cheapest prices for them if you can wait a few days to have them shipped.

Rod to Frame bushings P/N: K8659 $34.79ea 1 required
These can be found at advance for $24.33ea 2 required p/n TRW HB1596K





Rod to control arm bushings P/N: K8680 $9.33ea 2 required
These can be found at advance for $13.13ea 2 required p/n TRW HB1644K


I purchased the TRW parts for the rod to lower arm since those bushings tend to go out often on our cars and you can get replacements easy w/ the lifetime warranty.

The easiest way to do it all is to disconnect the shock from the lower arm, disconnect the lower arm from the frame, and take out the bolts from both outer ends of the strut rod. Pull the lower arm out and take out the rod and bushings. It's pretty straight forward, and since oyu have to get an alignment anyways, the removal of the control arm isn't going to mean much as long as you get it back around the same position in order to get it to the shop.

Just a word of caution before you think something might be wrong. The washers on the rod to frame bushings are tied together w/ the ferrule in the middle. When you take out the outer bolt at the frame, the washer won't just fall off, you're going to have to pry it off until it breaks apart from the ferrule.

If you have any other questions, let me know, as i have just finished replacing every single piece of my front suspension.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-26-2004, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
 
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alright well looking at the papers I was given, it says strut rod bushings by lower ball joint. so is this it??
one more thing, I'm not going to need to rent any special tools or anything am I?

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-26-2004, 11:45 AM
 
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Yup those are the strut rod to lower arm bushings. If you look at the pic that i posted, the black one's on the LEFT are the Ford originals and leave much to be desired. On the RIGHT are the Moog/TRW replacements and are of a better design.

No special tools required except for the large sockets/wrenches and whatever you use to pry off the washer from the rod to frame bushings.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-26-2004, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
 
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Hey thanks for the help guys. Looks like I'll be working on the car instead of cleaning the apt.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-26-2004, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
 
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Well after a hour or so of working on this, I've decieded this is a 2 person job. I couldn't for the life of me get the nut off the rod by the lower ball joint. The strut rod kept twisting with the nut. Need an extra set of hands to hold the rod still or maybe use an impact.

Hey 94birdnj, where'd you pick up a 30mm wrench? The biggest I could find at O'Reilly's is 22mm. And the 21mm is the correct size for the nuts for the shock and control arm but not for the nut on the rod I was trying to remove, if thats the one you were talking about.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-26-2004, 04:58 PM
 
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Bought my wrench in a kit from SEARS. 5 pcs from 22-30 i believe. You can buy just the 30mm though. It is the right size for the front bolt. Yes that is the nut that i was talking about. Two people is a must because as you have found out, the rod will indeed move when you try to loosen it. Just get another person w/ a smaller wrench (i used a 22mm) on the strut rod (MAKE SURE it's NOT on the center part of the flat spot, but towards teh front or rear of the flat part of the rod.)


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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-27-2004, 07:12 AM
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You need 24mm and 30 mm do do the nuts on the strut rod bushings.

24mm at the back, 30mm at the front.

In order to get the rear strut rod bushings out, you have to remove the nut at the back end of the strut rod. You also have to take the inner nut at the opposite end of the strut, and turn it all the way in towards the rear.
Keep track of the original position of the two nuts, as it can throw your alignment off they are not put back to the same position. The shop manual also recommends removing the lower shock bolt, but mine wouldn't come out. Once you have the two nuts out of the way, you have to pry between the tension strut and lower control arm, until the strut rod comes out. Then clean the hole in the lower control arm, and make sure that it is clean from leftover bushing material (rubber & metal). I then lubricated the bushing contact area with white lithium grease.
Once you swap the bushings out, just reverse the procedures to put things back together. Make sure you put the two nuts back in the same exact place. I ended up taking my car to Midas and for $20, they loosened the nuts for me, as I couldn't get them to budge. They used a 3ft. breaker bar. Also, the tension strut has a slight v-shape to it. AT the center of the tension strut, there is a flat area for wrenches, to hold the strut while loosening and tightening the nuts. Do not put the wrench at the exact center of this machined area, instead, favor the side that you are working on( this is per the Shop manual).

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1995 T-Bird LX 4.6 retired at 247,888 miles
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-27-2004, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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how do i get the shock bolt out. i've tried hammering and using a wrench but the corners of the bolt are already sorta rounded off
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-27-2004, 12:51 PM
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There is a split steel sleeve around the lower shock bolt.

Take a very sharp flat blade screwdriver and try to wedge the split seam open, and also spray some penetrating fluid in there. It should just pop out then.


Note:

Use the search feature on this one, using the term sleeve.

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-27-2004, 12:54 PM
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Read modbirds post in this thread.

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.p...ghlight=sleeve

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1995 T-Bird LX 4.6 retired at 247,888 miles
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