where to buy upper ball joints? - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-26-2004, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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where to buy upper ball joints?

I got my vehicle up on a rack today and am looking at the upper ball joints and they are toasted. That is probably what is causing my weird noise when hitting a bump. Where can I buy these and how much should I expect to spend?
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-26-2004, 07:43 PM
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Autozone or similar carries them. Last time I looked a UCA ran about $55-$60 on their site.
post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-26-2004, 08:10 PM
 
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Don't forget rockauto.com

there was a discount code thread here somewhere as well.
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-26-2004, 08:12 PM
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yep the discount is 5 percent I think. I have the code in my email, but can't find it right now.

You want the entire control arm, not the joint itself.
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-27-2004, 12:49 AM
 
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Yeah,

That's what it is, mine does the same thing, while it's down I'll probbaly replace it too.
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-27-2004, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
 
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Are the upper ball joints going to cause what sound like a a muffler hitting the underside of the car? I know that is not the case but it sounds like that.
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-27-2004, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rich93
Are the upper ball joints going to cause what sound like a a muffler hitting the underside of the car? I know that is not the case but it sounds like that.
Yep. You said you looked at your control arm when the car was up on the rack, right? If the rubber housing on the ball joint was shredded or cracked, then the lube the rubber was housing has leaked out and the pop noise you hear when you take sharp turns or come out of a steep driveway is the result.

Do a search and you will be able to find many a thread about how to change the arm yourself. If you are changing only the UCA, then you will not need to get a re-alignment.
post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-27-2004, 12:39 PM
 
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???
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-27-2004, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
 
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yes just like that on both sides.
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-27-2004, 01:20 PM
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yes just like that on both sides.
I see a UCA change in your future...NO! 2 changes in your future...
post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-27-2004, 01:28 PM
 
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Yeah,

Mine makes sort of a squishy sound when I go over speed bumps or any kind of bump.
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-30-2004, 11:52 AM
 
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Wow! I thought mine was bad... Well, it is, but the rubber seal is still there, just cracked like crazy... I've been driving it like this for a month or so - I gotta' get it replaced fast... RockAuto has them for $59.00 I think... Something like that. Upper ball joint and control arm assembly. #MCS-10764 is the part number for the passenger side, I think... At the moment, the passenger side is the only bad one on mine. Stupid clunking is getting annoying, every crack in the road I hit... Clu-clunk.
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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-30-2004, 01:38 PM
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dude get that changed asap, man thats worse than mine was, lol, another telltale sign of ball joint problems is a creaking sound heard from the front suspension when bouncing the front end, or when you turn the steering wheel, later'z.......

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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-30-2004, 01:45 PM
 
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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-30-2004, 01:46 PM
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Help, Also...

Mine makes the same clunking noise over bumps, etc.... however I also have what feels like the right front trying to steer on it's own.... only noticable while turning in curves.... Kinda like that stupid wobbly wheeled shopping cart... only its more of a inconsistant pull, so it takes a little extra effort to go through a curve and remain relatively smooth through it.

I originally thought the ball joints were the problem here but they only affect up and down motion, right?

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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-30-2004, 02:00 PM
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3atm3, well 50 bucks is a lot cheaper than tearing up your your car when your front suspension fails, one three letter word job, not to sound harsh but getting one of those will make alot of your problems with money go away!

dave, mine did the clunky noise over bumps and uneven road until i changed the swaybar endlinks, the pulling to one side when cornering usually indicates that you have either bad bushings alowing the wheel to move back and forth, or your tierod endlinks are bad, mine are getting that way too, you can usually tell when the tire tread has a feathered appearence, also when going around turns you can feel that bumpy sensation in the steering, like when your brake rotors are warped and you step on the brake, that type feeling, the ball joints affect up and down movement and the steering, later'z........

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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-30-2004, 02:04 PM
 
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How would that make my front suspension fail? I'm getting a job Tuesday anyways so I have the following lined up...

1) Buy new rim (50$)
2) Fix front tension strut [bend it back at body shop] (150$)
3) Alignment and Balancing (50-75$)
4) Upper Ball Joints (60$?)
5) New Battery (25$?)

So, what do you think, are my estimates accurate?
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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-30-2004, 02:16 PM
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the battery will set you back a little more than 25 bux, and if you let the ball joint or any part of the front suspension for that matter, fail, you run the risk of at the very least, damaging more of the suspension, damaging the car when the wheel falls out, more probable, or having an accident where you could be injured, the list goes on and on, i had a ball joint fail before and it bent my fender, lol. seriously though, get it fixed, your estimates are ok, except for the battery, and the ball joints are 60-75 dollar's a piece.......later'z......

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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-30-2004, 02:18 PM
 
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1) Buy new rim (50$)
2) Fix front tension strut [bend it back at body shop] (150$)
3) Alignment and Balancing (50-75$)
4) Upper Ball Joints (75$)
5) New Battery (50$?)
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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-30-2004, 02:19 PM
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post #21 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-30-2004, 06:29 PM
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If I were you I'd get a Motorcraft Battery. Sure they are $80, but my 96 is still on the original battery, and my SHO's Battery lasted almost 13 years.




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post #22 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-30-2004, 08:56 PM
 
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If I were you I'd get a Motorcraft Battery. Sure they are $80, but my 96 is still on the original battery, and my SHO's Battery lasted almost 13 years.
Motocraft Fleet Tough all the way
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post #23 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-31-2004, 02:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 3ATM3
1) Buy new rim (50$)
2) Fix front tension strut [bend it back at body shop] (150$)
3) Alignment and Balancing (50-75$)
4) Upper Ball Joints (75$)
5) New Battery (50$?)
actually, more like:

4) Upper Ball Joints Control Arms ($60-$75 x2 = $120-$150)
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post #24 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-31-2004, 02:09 AM
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don't forget the tax.

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post #25 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-31-2004, 12:06 PM
 
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post #26 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-31-2004, 02:11 PM
 
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Can I ask a question. My 95 SC needs it's upper control arms/ball joints replaced. My car has a pretty bad vibration/steering wheel hop above 55 and especially at acceleration. The tire shop who has balanced my wheels 3 times in a month told me my ball joints were bad and were causing the problem. I have already ordered the prts from O'Reileys. Does this sound like the probable cause. The wheels are the 17x9 Cobra on 255 series tires, nearly brand new. I do have universal spacers up front that I think may have something to do with it because they do not fit tight at all. ANY advice would help a lot. This problem has made hitting the highway very bothersome and uncomfortable. Thank you!!!
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post #27 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-01-2004, 12:25 AM
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Chorizon:

Would the ball joints cause a loud screeching sound when turning the wheel to the right or the left? And would it be more evident in colder weather? And less evident when I'm hauling three other passengers? Also, it pulls to the left when applying the brake although the caliper looks fine and seems to lock up the brakes when I watch as someone applies them. Three different mechanics and three different opions relative to the ball joints being bad. The screeching is driving me and my neighbors nuts and the cops are starting to give me wierd looks, too. Ya. I am paranoid I guess (or at least a voice somewhere keeps telling me I am ;-) )

How tough would it be to do the ball joints myself? Er, that is my son to do, that is as I'm tired, retired and an old fart. But then again, he's fat and lazy.

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Thanks lots chorizon

Quote:
Originally posted by chorizon
dude get that changed asap, man thats worse than mine was, lol, another telltale sign of ball joint problems is a creaking sound heard from the front suspension when bouncing the front end, or when you turn the steering wheel, later'z.......
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post #28 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-01-2004, 12:37 AM
 
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Would the ball joints cause a loud screeching sound when turning the wheel to the right or the left?

That to me sounds like a tie rod is about to go out or the boot on it is GONE.
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post #29 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-01-2004, 01:40 AM
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sideoiler, the ball joints can cause a squeaking, screeching noise, or a grinding noise when they are on thier last legs, the noise could also be present when bouncing the front up and down a few times, many times it is misdiagnosed as swaybar bushings, which could be possible, but if the noise is present when you turn the steering wheel right and left, it is most definately the ball joints, the tricky part is finding out which one, the lower ball joint tends to make the most noise, while the upper is a little quieter but basically produces the same noise,

as to how hard it is to do it, i've only done the passenger side upper, which is the whole control arm, was not as difficult as it was time consuming, if you can get those ratcheting box end wrenches, they will take off about twenty minutes off your time, lol, what is cool about the upper, though, is it is a one piece assembly, it comes with new bushings as well so it is a bargain fo 60-70 bux a pop, the lower one is serviceable, but if you can find the whole lower control arm it would be a simple r&r job, it comes with all new bushings as well, however, i think you would need a macphearson(spelling) strut spring compressor to do the lower, it would definately help if you don't have access to a lift,

as to it pulling to one side, probably would end up being the control arm bushings, hence my stressing the idea of getting the upper and lower control arm assemblies because they come with all new bushings, just remember to get it aligned after you do the work, don't hesitate to ask any questions, i'll be glad to try to help you out, hope this helps, later'z.....

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post #30 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-02-2004, 12:26 PM
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Thanks for the relpies, and a special thanks to you, Chorizon (doesn't that mean 'heart' in Spanish). Car is in for new tie rods today because the mechanic is convinced this is causing the problem. I'm still convinced its the ball joints so guess I'll know this late p.m.. My buddy across the street (ex 101st Airborne friend) tells me we're gonna do the ball joints ourselves. Should be some fun as I'm an old fart that can't do much physically and he's convinced he can do anything, even the impossible. I lost all that macho stuff about the third time I had to pull my reserve chute ;-) .......Thanks again

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