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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-05-2004, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quick UCA replacement question

OK OK OK

i just checked the service CD and they say that the 2 bolts that hold the control arm assembly to the chassis and the 1 ball joint to spindle bolt as well as all the nuts must be discarded and replaced with new hardware upon installation of the new part

i purchased the LCA to shock bolt cuz i hear that a PITA.. but are these top bolts needed too? they want $4 for one, and $2.38 each for the others, plus nuts, times 2. i know i know.. call dan.. but still, are these necessary? i think it said something about breaking flags off on the bushing bolts to remove them as well.

lemme know.. pass side starting to clunk which means really limited time, and it is already gonna take 3 days for the parts to show up, even local cuz no one stocks hardware around here...

JD


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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-05-2004, 11:08 AM
 
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I didn't replace mine, and it's been almost 2 years with no problems. I didn't break the flags off the bolts either, I used a ratcheting wrench, and took a little patience, and they came off rather easily.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-05-2004, 11:35 AM
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I haven’t had any problem since I changed mine using existing hardware.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-05-2004, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by jamesD
OK OK OK

i just checked the service CD and they say that the 2 bolts that hold the control arm assembly to the chassis and the 1 ball joint to spindle bolt as well as all the nuts must be discarded and replaced with new hardware upon installation of the new part

i purchased the LCA to shock bolt cuz i hear that a PITA.. but are these top bolts needed too? they want $4 for one, and $2.38 each for the others, plus nuts, times 2. i know i know.. call dan.. but still, are these necessary? i think it said something about breaking flags off on the bushing bolts to remove them as well.

lemme know.. pass side starting to clunk which means really limited time, and it is already gonna take 3 days for the parts to show up, even local cuz no one stocks hardware around here...

JD
I just replaced both my UCA's and used an 18mm ratcheting wrench for the drivers side and used an 18mm crow foot tool for the passenger side to break the rear nut loose. I did get new hardware because that's just the way I am, but you could probably get away with reusing the old stuff assuming you didn't round off any nuts. I also don't see the benefit in breaking off the flags on the bolts - I used them to my advantage - they keep the bolt from turning when loosening/tightening it!

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-06-2004, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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driver side done.. pass side looks like a BI*CH

C-clamp vise grips helped a lot w/ the balljoint hehehehe
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-06-2004, 12:16 AM
 
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For the passenger's side, take the electrical weather pack loose, and then take the bracket off the fender, it'll give you enough room to work on it, and actually make it easier than the driver's side.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-06-2004, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
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electrical weather pack.. which side is that one? i saw one bolt that i had to move my airtube out of the way.. the side by the firewall looks like the a/c tubing is in my way

lemme know..

JD
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-06-2004, 02:24 AM
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The passenger side was alot easier to me anyway. I didn't remove anything to get to it. Just used my trusty 18mm Craftsman ratcheting wrench.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-06-2004, 05:36 AM
 
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I just did mine and didn't have to remove anything for access. On the rear pass. side I went in between the valve cover and A/C line, and on the driver side I went in behind the shock tower. The 15 degree offset of the wrench made that possible. Took a maximum of 30 minutes each side, including jacking, removing, and reinstalling tire. I love Gear wrenches!
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-06-2004, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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puh.. my gearwrench wouldn't fit.. not enough clearance between nut and accumulator.. oh well.. at least i got it done before the rain...
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-06-2004, 06:08 PM
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JamesD - Where did you buy your uca from?

Was looking at picking up some gearwrenches... looks like I'll look for one with an offset.

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-06-2004, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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www.rockauto.com they are "moog" (TRW) ones, just like OEM

if you need a 5% discount code.. let me know or search the board.. i have straight ratcheting wrenches by gearwrench.. the offset would have not helped me on the one bolt i had a problem with (pass side by firewall.. ) since it was blocked by the accumulator..

i tell you what though.. i'll post a pic of the bad UCA (although i am sure you all know what they look like).. i went over railroad tracks on my way to work (unavoidable).. ride condition is improved quite a bit.. i can't imagine what it will be like w/ new shocks (bilsteins and GP springs), and new sway bar end links (bushings are starting to crack)

the UCA come w/ new balljoint/spindle bolts. i only used the "nylon' nuts and the old bolt.. and i did reuse the old pivot bushing bolts w/ the "flags".. so far so good.. just need to go buy a 13/16" 1/2" drive deep socket for my lugnuts so i can properly tighten them...


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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-06-2004, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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well.. picture kinda sucks..but you get the drift.. no clear / white ball joint "absorber" anymore.. just cracked black gook type rubber.. anyway.. thanks for the help guys..

OH and for the record..

my next project after the suspension is done







sssshhhhhh hehehehe.. just have to figure out what everyone is doin who has ACC.. but that is another post, at another time..
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-06-2004, 10:27 PM
 
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for the intake get a 90 degree bend 5/8 hose, and don't throw out your old NPI hardline. You hack that up and reuse the sensor. It will make sense once you cut open your knuckles trying to fit it in
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-06-2004, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by jamesD


well.. picture kinda sucks..but you get the drift.. no clear / white ball joint "absorber" anymore.. just cracked black gook type rubber.. anyway.. thanks for the help guys..
Yeah that's pretty much how mine look. I don't drive it everyday. Gathering the tools, time and parts so I can replace mine.

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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Embalmer


.... I also don't see the benefit in breaking off the flags on the bolts - I used them to my advantage - they keep the bolt from turning when loosening/tightening it!
ABSOLUTELY don't break off the flags. I made that mistake once and I was there for hours. Ended up loosening the bolt enough to get my cutoff wheel in there and just cut it off.

Leave the flags on and you won't have a problem. Still a pain to do not because it's hard, just because it takes forever.
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