More Clunking and Vibration - TCCoA Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-01-2004, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
2nd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Claremore, OK
Age: 41
Posts: 105
Question More Clunking and Vibration

I know there are a ton of messages on this, but none seem to be addressing my specific problem. I hear rattling our of the right rear which I think may be an endlink. But I also get vibration out of the right rear. This vibration has been present for a long time - it is not tire/wheel related - and starts at about 65/70 MPH. I have had the car 4 wheel aligned more than once over time and have even mentioned the vibration and noise, but no one thinks there is anything wrong with it. I'm going to check more into it tonight. Does anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks,
Randy
Rando76 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-02-2004, 08:56 PM
Trumpeter Extraordinaire
 
IronChopz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Saturn (or SE Michigan)
Age: 57
Posts: 2,916
Do you hear a clunk when shifting into reverse? How about when you're going 65-70, then coast down to 60 (foot off gas pedal), then accellerate again? How are the U-joints? Those can be a source of clunking and vibration.

When this happened to me a few months ago, the vibration I detected on my car sounded as if it was in the right rear of the car. New U-joints solved the vibration/clunk problem.
IronChopz is offline  
post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-02-2004, 10:00 PM
Moderator
Moderator
 
JustinH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Austin, TX
Age: 37
Posts: 8,239
Send a message via AIM to JustinH
take a peek at your sway bar endlink bushings, if they are blown out just replace them all instead of doing them one at a time.

On my 95, the stock bushings were totally blown out and clanking at like 50k miles.

As for the bad vibes, the mn12 cars are very sensitive to vibes, I am chasing down one myself, grr.

Could be a million things, off the top of my head, just do a search but here is the basic rundown.

Improper Wheel lug torque.

Align the valve stem with the painted lug when installing wheels.

It could even be brake rotor runout. My 95 did this, I put new rotors on the front of it and the vibration went away like magic.

Or hub runout....

As for the clunk, I would look at the IRS bushing near the rear end before I got into U joints.

I would think that your IRS bushings are about done also and that is causing the clunk.

I wouldn't put new u joints on that trash stock driveshaft, if you end up doing ujoints, then get a custom one piece highspeed balanced driveshaft made up with some spicer ujoints and call it a day. The stock driveshaft is a two piece unit and it has been the source of alot of bad vibes also.
JustinH is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-07-2004, 06:44 AM Thread Starter
2nd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Claremore, OK
Age: 41
Posts: 105
Lightbulb

I got under the car and found the IRS bushings were TRASH! I ordered a new set yesterday, along with transmission mounts However, I do have clunking - If I let off the gas a few seconds then put my foot back into it - it clunks. If I ease into the pedal, it doesn't clunk. Also, there is some clunking when putting the car in reverse. I checked the end link bushings and they were good. I know for a fact the rear end and CV joints are tight. I checked that when looking at the IRS bushings. Also, the vibration is coming from the right rear.
Thanks for all the help guys!
Rando76 is offline  
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-10-2004, 01:16 AM
The Band, not the Disease!
 
AnthraxBird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: NW Indiana
Age: 34
Posts: 3,090
Send a message via AIM to AnthraxBird
U-Joints. Dont worry they are CHEAP!!!





































Putting them in requires work underneath the car, messing with the rear differential and the gas tank... I need mine done BAD and I keep putting it off =/

1997 Mark VIII LSC - Toreador Red
AnthraxBird is offline  
post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-12-2004, 08:59 PM
6th Gear Poster
 
95tbirdv8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Houston
Age: 32
Posts: 600
where can you get the u joint? my car does the same thing it vibrates a lot especially after 65. when i go over a bump slowly i hear a pop in the back.

95 mark 8 lsc
95 tbird v8
90 mustang gt
92 mustang gt
07 silverado v8
08 yamaha r6
95tbirdv8 is offline  
post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-12-2004, 10:12 PM
Trumpeter Extraordinaire
 
IronChopz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Saturn (or SE Michigan)
Age: 57
Posts: 2,916
I'd suggest having your fingers do the walking (yellow pages), call a few shops, and ask for Dana Spicer U-joints. I found some in my area at a place that works on joints, clutches, gears, driveshafts, etc., for large trucks. If I recall correctly, you'll want a #1350 U-joint.

Otherwise, you can get other brand U-joints at the usual retail places, such as Advance Auto Parts, Carquest, AutoZone, NAPA, etc.
IronChopz is offline  
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-28-2004, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
2nd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Claremore, OK
Age: 41
Posts: 105
So....is the Mark d/s much better balanced or should I look at aftermarkets? Opinions?
Rando76 is offline  
post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-29-2004, 05:15 PM
The Band, not the Disease!
 
AnthraxBird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: NW Indiana
Age: 34
Posts: 3,090
Send a message via AIM to AnthraxBird
the 93 mark driveshaft is a 1 piece aluminum driveshaft... if you get one, I would have it balanced.. for safety =)

1997 Mark VIII LSC - Toreador Red
AnthraxBird is offline  
post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-06-2004, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
2nd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Claremore, OK
Age: 41
Posts: 105
Angry

OK....so this is getting personal.
Here's a list of what I've done in the past few weeks.

New Tires
4 Wheel Alignment
New brakes and rotors - all 4 wheels.
New shocks
New upper A-arms
New rear sway bar end-links
New transmission mount
New IRS bushings
New U-joints and driveshaft balance

I no longer have the clunking noises, but I still have a vibration from about 65 up. I can't figure out what this is. It still feels like its the right rear. I figure I'll try another wheel/tire on the right rear, but I'd think the tire shop would have known if the wheel was slightly bent. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Rando76 is offline  
post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-06-2004, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
2nd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Claremore, OK
Age: 41
Posts: 105
I have another question about this too. Is there supposed to be a rubber dampener between the pinion flange and the driveshaft. I read about these on the internet, but my car doesn't have one - It's just metal to metal between the flange and driveshaft.

Thanks for the help everyone!
Rando76 is offline  
post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-27-2004, 10:36 PM
6th Gear Poster
 
95tbirdv8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Houston
Age: 32
Posts: 600
does anyone have a pic of the u-joint, its about time that i need to change mine and see if the vibration stops

95 mark 8 lsc
95 tbird v8
90 mustang gt
92 mustang gt
07 silverado v8
08 yamaha r6
95tbirdv8 is offline  
post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-28-2004, 06:41 AM Thread Starter
2nd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Claremore, OK
Age: 41
Posts: 105
This isn't a Thunderbird u-joint, but the same....


Randy
Rando76 is offline  
post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-30-2004, 12:49 AM
3rd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Worcester, MA
Age: 35
Posts: 175
Send a message via AIM to DGFourSixLX
Be sure to check out your strut rod bushings...I had a very reputable mechanic look at my front end to see if anything needed to be replaced. Well, I thought the strut rod bushings looked pretty trashed, but he said they should be fine. Well, as I was looking at the reflection of my car backing up one day, I discovered that, while backing up and applying the brakes, my front left wheel would move forward ever so slightly, as if the entire suspension assembly were moving.

That's exactly what it was doing.

I have a blown strut rod to spindle bushing that needs to be replaced BADLY. I also have a vibration that starts around 80 m.p.h. and can be felt through the steering wheel and somewhat in the seat of your pants. My car has been aligned and this problem was not apparent at the time. The alignment was done on a Hunter Engineering machine, if this makes any difference. These bushings are pretty cheap from RockAuto.com, but if they are replaced you will need to have another alignment. Make sure you check out your steering rack too, as those tend to have a good amount of wear and "looseness" over time and with use.

-DG-

'07 Toyota FJ Cruiser

(Sold)1997 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC Black/Black
Chrome Cobra R's, BFG Rubber, Cobra/KVR Brakes
Custom Koni front air struts, Bilstein/Addco in rear
Cobra Intake Manifold, SCT XCal by Lonnie of BOC
DGFourSixLX is offline  
post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-30-2004, 11:33 AM
Seasoned Veteran Poster
 
95BLKLSC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Westport, MA
Posts: 974
Yea I'm chasing a vib that starts in at 65 on my car. I've replaced EVERYTHING in the front end, even down to the high pressure PS lines, lol. I've tried a few sets of other rims and tires that I know don't vibrate (from a Sable). I still can't find it...............if you have any luck make sure you post it!!! I'm starting to think although I feel the vibration in the steering wheel it may be originating from somwhere else. I'm going to put the car up on jacks and run it up to 75 or so to make sue it's not driveline (do have a dynotech driveshaft). So damn annoying............

95 LSC- Mods: 2.5 dual exhaust, 3.73s, 17x9 cobra R Rims, SCT dyno tune, MM driveshaft, 249 rwhp/ 268 ft lb tq
97 Base- Mods: Forged motor, Eaton m112, 2.76 pully, too many mods to list..........
My Car Domain Page
95BLKLSC is offline  
post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-01-2004, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
2nd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Claremore, OK
Age: 41
Posts: 105
Thanks for the tips guys. I know that my vibration is in the driveline. It changes every time I make the smallest change to something (like changing the position of the d/s on the pinion flange). I haven't had time to work on it, but soon I'm going to check the pinion angle with a protractor.

Randy
Rando76 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome