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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-10-2004, 03:23 AM Thread Starter
 
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Suspension Installation Q's

I've got a few questions here before I begin to install my new shocks. I am hoping that you guys can help me out because my Haynes book isnt much help and I don't know many folks who are hep up on MN12 suspention info.

My mechanic's professional opnion is that as long as the ride-height hasnt been adjusted and I am using new shocks with OEM valving (as in, not stiffer than oem) I will be able to get away with re-using the springs I have. So I went and orderd some OEM-replacement KYB shocks from Shox.com.

When installing my front shocks, What I need to know is that since I am going to re-use the old springs if I am going to need a spring compressor, or even if I need to remove the spring at all. My haynes manual says that for "shock/coil sping installation and removal" I won't need to compress the springs. But if I am installing nw springs (which I am not) I WILL need to compress them. So...my main worry is: am I going to need a spring compressor to re-install the old springs?.

The only real problem that I'd have with needing to compress the springs is that I don't have a bench-top vise (which is needed) or a spring compressor. So whats the deal here?

Also I had a list here of tools I'd need, but I lost it. So what sockets or extra stuff am I going to need. AFAIK I wont need to remove the balljoints so I don't need a pickle fork or anything
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-10-2004, 04:07 AM
 
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The quickest, safest, and easiest way to change springs is to take the new shocks with the old shock/spring assembly to a place that has a wall-mounted spring compressor, and have them change them out. Handheld spring compressors can be unreliable, hard to compress, and dangerous. It's well worth the few dollars they would charge you. I'm lucky enough to have access to one, and I wouldn't change a spring without it.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-10-2004, 09:28 AM
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If you are taking the assembly apart, I would just replace the springs with some OEM sport springs to make it a little stiffer, or get some of the GP springs. Also, new spring rubbers may be in order, depending on the condition of yours.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-12-2004, 03:31 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rich95XR7
The quickest, safest, and easiest way to change springs is to take the new shocks with the old shock/spring assembly to a place that has a wall-mounted spring compressor, and have them change them out. Handheld spring compressors can be unreliable, hard to compress, and dangerous. It's well worth the few dollars they would charge you. I'm lucky enough to have access to one, and I wouldn't change a spring without it.
...I am not understanding this...so the spring needs to be compressed ON to the shock? That doesnt make sense. What's stopping the spring from popping off the shock while it's not in the car. Does this mean I am going to HAVE to re-compress the old springs?
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-12-2004, 04:38 AM
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in a word, yes. the spring sits on a perch, and there is a top piece made out of rubber that is held in place by a nut. the entire shock/spring will come out as an assembly but in order to change it out you will have to compress the spring.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-12-2004, 09:15 AM
 
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exactly. You'll be surprised at how much the spring is compressed to fit the shock. It's kinda like a bomb, ready to explode. I know I had to compress my sport springs at least 4-5" to get the mount on. Can you imagine the force that thing would have come off with if the compressor would have slipped? The wall mount takes about 15 minutes to changed both sides, the handheld compressor takes a couple hours, and you'll be sore the next morning from all the effort required to compress those strong bastards.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-12-2004, 10:05 AM
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Aren't the front's struts, and the rears shocks?

In order to change the fronts, you need a spring compressor. For the rears, no spring compressor needed as the springs are a part of the IRS and not around the shock.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-12-2004, 10:52 AM
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thats how they be. ive used both type of compressors and id say that if you dont have air tools take them somewhere to use a wall mounted compressor. with air tools you can use the hand type. one last thing, DO NOT take that top nut off without compressing the spring first. unless you have a death wish that is.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-12-2004, 11:17 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by joshbea6
Aren't the front's struts, and the rears shocks?
No, we have shocks up front also. At first they may look like struts, but if you check the design of the suspension, and what struts do, they are indeed a coil over shock. Check the suspension tech articles, there's an article there about the shock vs. strut debate.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-15-2004, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rich95XR7


No, we have shocks up front also. At first they may look like struts, but if you check the design of the suspension, and what struts do, they are indeed a coil over shock. Check the suspension tech articles, there's an article there about the shock vs. strut debate.
Actully...I just got my struts/shocks. The fronts say "KYB GR-2 Gas Strut" and the rears say "KYB GR-2 Gas Shock"
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-15-2004, 05:34 PM
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I believe they are called a hybrid. Mix of shock and strut. Struts take the place of upper control arms. So any car that has upper control arms will not have a strut.

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-16-2004, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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It's techinicaly considred a "modified MacPherson strut" set up. Anyway, I'm cruious, if I have some shop compress my springs how does that keep them on the shock/strut. I'm about halfway to saying "screw it" and let a shop do the whole front suspension for me.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-16-2004, 06:54 PM
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http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...UTF-8%26sa%3DN

looking at this pic you can see how. your going to have to bring your new struts with you and have the shop put your springs on them. the compressor will grab the bottom of the strut and the top rubber then compress it. then the top nut can safely be taken off and the spring slowly uncompressed. does that make sense?
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2004, 06:17 PM
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If any body here has a good idea of how to get the bolt out of the spindle so that the assembly will come out of the car or how to get the assembly out of the car with out removing the upper control arm bolt I will senfd then a gift certificate for a 6 pack of their favorite beverage. I know the tension is off the upper because Ican move with my hand but those bolts just do not want to move.


HELP

Tony

Tony McColl
1994 LX 4.6L
New motor as of Aug 1st.
No Dyno Numbers yet.
Just two runs at 5800 ft.


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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-18-2004, 08:44 PM
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I had trouble getting the upper spindle to upper control arm bolt out as well.

Using a combination of heat, liquid penetrant, a wedge, and a porta-power, I finally got it to budge. Used the wedge to spread the split clamp open more.

Had more success just by turning the square head of the bolt back and forth. Needed some extra leverage to do that too.


EDIT:

Just had a thought;

If you have a two jaw puller, maybe give that a try to.

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Last edited by Rolling-Thunder; 07-18-2004 at 08:50 PM.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-18-2004, 10:02 PM
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I am contemplating grinding the lip off the spindle so that i can turn the bolt with a big wrench. Seems like there is plenty of room there for a lock washer. Did not want to use heat as the boot started to melt.

Maybe tomorrow night I will tackle it again. Thanks.

T

Tony McColl
1994 LX 4.6L
New motor as of Aug 1st.
No Dyno Numbers yet.
Just two runs at 5800 ft.


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2203515
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