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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-11-2004, 11:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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Poly bushing kits

Anyone who has the MN12 Performance Poly suspension bushings, did they make any difference in handling performance? I know there has to be some difference, I'm just wondering whether or not it's worth it to shell out another $250 on my suspension. Thanks for any info you can provide.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-14-2004, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
 
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No one? Eh, it doesn't matter anymore, I decided to take that money and do a rear disc conversion instead.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-14-2004, 10:35 AM
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It takes away lots of the compliance, the car turns-in better, BUT, impact harshness gets worse. Chasing suspension squeaks are a continual battle with the white lithium grease. I had problems with fit on an earlier set of the MN-12 performance bushings (specifically the LCA bushings), but I hear they have that solved now.

On the cheap, for street use, just get the higher durometer MOOG "problem solver" bushings that replace the front strut-rod bushings, and make sure everything else is in good condition.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-14-2004, 11:03 AM
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"On the cheap, for street use, just get the higher durometer MOOG "problem solver" bushings that replace the front strut-rod bushings, and make sure everything else is in good condition."

Do you know where can I get these parts for street use?

Thanks

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-14-2004, 11:15 AM
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I ordered mine from RockAuto. Look under "suspension", then "strut rod bushing kit". It is MOOG P/N K8659, $34.79 per kit, 2 required. They are blue in color.

I use those, and all other poly or delrin bushings front and rear on my track car.

On my last street car, I just used the MOOG strut rod bushings, and replaced all other bushings with OEM. I found that the big, pillowy stock strut rod bushings lasted 50K miles or less on Michigan roads. With the MOOG bushings, impact harshness goes up a little, but the car turns in quicker, and the bushings last much longer.

PS - when you change them, a full set of tools with deepwell sockets, large wrenches, and an impact gun are really helpful. You will also need an angle grinder to grind the lip off the sleeve holding the old strut rod bushings in place.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-15-2004, 12:00 PM
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Thanks for the info Kleckner

I am going to use the MOOG strut rod bushings, and replaced all other bushings with OEM.

KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors
K&N Air Filter
Removed Air Intake Silencer
Original transmission now @ 320,000
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