wheel bearing replace? Don't want to die. - TCCoA Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-05-2004, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
3rd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Pennsylvania
Age: 39
Posts: 138
Exclamation wheel bearing replace? Don't want to die.

Alright, I have:
-96 Cougar w/ 207,000 miles
-97 Mark VIII LSC w/ 116,000 miles

In the Fall, I replaced most of the front suspension in the cougar to install polyurethane bushings. I still need to do the rear. I now just bought the Mark VIII and need to do some work on the air suspension.

With the mileage on these cars, my biggest priority is having nothing CATASTROPHIC happen while I'm driving... especially since my girlfriend will be driving one of the cars.

I'll be going back into both of these cars' suspensions very soon. I'm looking for advice on wheel bearing replacement.

Questions:
-Front: Replace just bearing or hub and bearing? Does the spindle have to be removed? I want a shop to do my bearings so I'm worried about the extra cost of them removing my spindle.
-Rear: same as above.
-What other catastrophic stuff should I be concerning myself with?
-When I put all the nuts back on my car's suspension, should I be using lock tite? Has anyone ever had a problem with suspension boot grease getting on threads and being a problem? Tips?
-Does anyone have a good solution for reinstalling the lower control arm bolt so that it isn't a pain in the *** every time you remove it?
boba is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-05-2004, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
3rd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Pennsylvania
Age: 39
Posts: 138
...and is any of this bearing replacement necessary if I haven't noticed a problem yet? Going through other posts seems to show that 'professionals' can put you into a more dangerous situation with a bad install.
boba is offline  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-05-2004, 08:00 PM
4th Gear Poster
 
Paddycake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Age: 43
Posts: 291
Heres the thing if they are in good shape(ie not growling or shimmying) leave em alone.
If you're going to do the fronts keep in mind you have to replace the whole assembly not just the bearings(maybe if you could get em off and call a bearing store with the part number....) Advanced Auto sells the fronts as a unit for like 60 bucks the rears are rarely an issue but when they are an issue you might as well find a parts car and snag the whole plate. Napa sells the bearings and you could get em pressed in but you'll be back at the dealership on a tow truck(don't ask how I know this) because chances are good the whole plate is warped from the bearing getting HOT!!!!(mine was).

No matter how good she looks. No matter how cool she is about your "stuff". No matter how great she is in bed, someone somewhere is sick of her crap.


1995 850R with 18T, 3" downpipe, R.I.P. kit, ported intake,42lb injectors, N/A cams, 960 throttlebody, Rica tune(15psi in first and second 17psi in third and fourth). Bilsteins all around, V70R caliper and rotor upgrade, total lack of traction. IPD STB, Ultra Racing lower braces and RSTB.
Paddycake is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-05-2004, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
3rd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Pennsylvania
Age: 39
Posts: 138
any advice on tie rod ends?
boba is offline  
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-06-2004, 12:03 AM
4th Gear Poster
 
Paddycake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Age: 43
Posts: 291
if you can make em squeek replace em with TWR or Ford ones(I like the warranty with TWR stuff

No matter how good she looks. No matter how cool she is about your "stuff". No matter how great she is in bed, someone somewhere is sick of her crap.


1995 850R with 18T, 3" downpipe, R.I.P. kit, ported intake,42lb injectors, N/A cams, 960 throttlebody, Rica tune(15psi in first and second 17psi in third and fourth). Bilsteins all around, V70R caliper and rotor upgrade, total lack of traction. IPD STB, Ultra Racing lower braces and RSTB.
Paddycake is offline  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-06-2004, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
3rd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Pennsylvania
Age: 39
Posts: 138
what company is TWR?

and is the squeak advice for bearings or tie rod ends? make them squeak manually when the car is in the air or while i'm driving?
boba is offline  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-06-2004, 12:54 PM
 
Litning's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Land of Confusion
Posts: 2,976
I think he is refering to TRW...

RIP Joel Bender and Preston Smith. The world will never be the same without you.
Litning is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-06-2004, 01:25 PM
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 247
Both cars use the same front hubs so just buy four and new retaining nuts. You can do all of them in an hour if you drink a lot of soda while working. Cut down on the beverages and it won't take an hour to do. Extremely simple job, probably takes longer to take the tires off and put them back on.

Rear bearings are pressed on and off. These are something you may want to leave to a shop to do for just that reason. Plus, you need to preload the suspension before reinstalling the assembly, not hard to do but easily forgotten.

Tie rod ends are easy to replace but you need an alignment afterwards. I'm only guessing that since you had to ask about this stuff that you aren't totally comfortable working on cars or not that familiar with them. The front bearings are something you can do no problem, the rear bearings and tie rods you might want to farm out.

The only 'odd' tool you'll need for the front hubs is a socket that fits the retaining nut. Don't forget to use NEW retaining nuts on ALL of the hubs, front and rear. They are a disposable nut that should not even be considered for reuse.

TCCoA has a tech section on their website that details these tasks.
a Bill is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome