Clunk fix, this is in the sticky but also wanted to post for those who may miss it - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-19-2004, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Clunk fix, this is in the sticky but also wanted to post for those who may miss it

I could make it clunk by punching the brake when backing out. I could also hear it on weird driveway approaches.

First, to finally assess it.
I put a long 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 3/4" socket on the end and put it on a lug nut. Car is on the ground. I orient it so that I can move the bar laterally parallel to the ground to impart force at the hub. Position myself so I can watch the front strut arm bushing at the K member. Pull hard forward. OMG! Huge deflection. Pushed it rearward ,not much to see. Probably biased to the rear. This is on the driver's side.
Passenger side, barely any deflection at all. Looks like rubber compression more than a displacement.

I removed the front nut on the driver's side, it was tighter than ..... well it was tight.
Got it off and pulled off the sleeve.
Sleeve measures 2-5/8" long. 66mm.
Out comes the chop saw.
I removed 3/16" from the sleeve.
Reassembled, first I moved the rear nut up towards the front about 3/16" to compensate and keep from messing up the alignment too much, reinstalled the hardware and tighened it all up.
Put the car back down, tested again.

VOILA! It only move a bit, like the rubber is compressing.

Now, stabbing the brake, no clunk at all.
This also may explain a high speed vibe that I have tried to get rid of since getting the car. This may have allowed the driver's side front to shimmy since there was play in it.

Updates if I find out more.

UPDATE: Definite improvement on the high speed vibe issue. Also, the car is less prone to rut-steer. Noticed myself bracing the wheel against known ruts and car did not wander near as bad as before.

Also, may have degraded the lower ball joint. Still a slight thump now and then. Hopefully that is all that is messed up. Not steering rack, ouch.

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-20-2004, 09:44 PM
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-20-2004, 10:25 PM
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so I'm guessing this would answer my next question...


From your post it would seem that there is a crush sleeve inside the strut rod bushing?

By that, when the strut rod nuts are tight there is a metal sleve in the middle of the bushings that connects the washers on either side?

It would sound as if you cut it to compress the bushings even further rather than replace them?

I got an alignment recently. After the alignment I have a clunk from the right front. It would seem to me as if the nuts on the strut rod bushing should be jammed against something solid. (a metal spacer inside the bushing) as it is now the whole assembly, washers and all is loose (me thinks I should call BS on the last alignment...)

whutchuthinkman???


Mostly stock...

For now...
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-21-2004, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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Yes there is a sleeve, not necessarily crushed, but it does limit how close together the bushings can be. The washers are tight against.

The bushings were fine. I was surprised, but not. they were loose.

Yes. when they align it, the caster should be set with that rod by moving both nuts basically. The suspension seems pre-loaded to the rear so the forward washer is tight against the forward bushing. Once established you tighten the rear nut, essentially locking the setup in place.
In my case, they tightened it up, but the sleeve was too long to compress the bushings on either side. Sloppy.

I will see what I can do about a picture.
OK
If Rich will allow me, a picture of his hardware for clarification.



In the upper portion you see the uninstalled situation, the metal ferrule/sleeve is showing between the bushings.
In the lower portion you see it on the rod itself. Now, how close you can get those flat washers and compress the bushings is limited by the length of the ferrule/sleeve.

that help?

Last edited by RichardM; 09-21-2004 at 03:25 PM.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-21-2004, 04:36 PM
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cool deal...

In that case i'm headed back up to Firestone to give them an education and get them to finish what they started.... As it is now, the washers are even a lil loose.

If the clunk is still there i'll trim the insert, or look at replacing the bushings

Thanks for the info


Mostly stock...

For now...
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-21-2004, 07:59 PM
 
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Richard,

Some further clarification is in order here I believe.

This fix is for an aftermarket replacement of the forward strut rod bushings and not the "stock from factory" bushings, is that correct? This having to do with an apparently incorrectly sized spacer included in many replacement bushing kits????

Please correct me if I am wrong.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-22-2004, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, thank you for that.

This was a poly bushing kit that was NOT containing factory parts.

This was installed quite some time ago. Possibly when the first kits actually came out.

Sorry if I was unclear on that part of it. I forget to cover all the pertinent ground when communicating ideas.

I would think that any factory parts would provide for the proper pre-load on the bushings to prevent the effect that I have experienced.


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