I did a temp fix for my Bird with Eibachs to get the camber at "0" degrees, but when I removed 700 lbs from the car, and needed to relower it, I went about a inch lower. With it lowered about 2 - 2 1/2 inches, I needed to do a complete fix for it., and get the camber corrected, and make it easily adjustable for the future.
The horse shoe camber guides were removed, and the slots in the K member were extended 1/2 inch towards the center of the car to allow the lower control arm to move in. After making sure I could go past "0", I turned the ecccentric so the long part was pointed to the outside, then spotted new 1/2 inch wide angle stock to replace the horse shoe guide that was damaged when removed. Turning it this way is to make sure it has full rotation space.
Here is what the finished job looks like.
Full information here:
If you do not go more than 1 1/2 lower, you most likely will not need to do this. If you are using skinny tires, it is not a big deal. If using 245 or bigger, they get too costly to be ruined by not running the camber as close to "0" that you can, unless it is mainly a track car.
-----1993 Bird 5.0------
393 stroker, Vortech YSi, on E85
Lentech Strip Terminator & 4,000+ RPM stall converter
Detroit Locker with 3.55 gears.
17x9 Cobra Rs with 255/45/17 BFG KWDS
275/50/17 M&H DR on the rear
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