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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-13-2004, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
Rob
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cutting springs?

I'm thinking of cutting my sport springs to make my car sit about 1" lower or so. What about heating them? What are the adverse effects of doing either one of these? Thanks
-Rob

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-13-2004, 10:22 AM
 
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DO NOT HEAT THEM!!!!!!!! Heating a spring takes the tension out of it, and makes it ride like a pogo stick. It you want to lower it 1", cut about 1-1.5 coils out of the Sport Springs.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-13-2004, 01:42 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rich95XR7
DO NOT HEAT THEM!!!!!!!! Heating a spring takes the tension out of it, and makes it ride like a pogo stick. It you want to lower it 1", cut about 1-1.5 coils out of the Sport Springs.

Thats what I did on mine. I only chopped about 1/2 of the top coil and it lowered it about 4"
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-13-2004, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Shouldn't I cut from the bottom side? Will the car feel bouncier with the tighter bottom side of the spring cut off? I've been searching about this this morning. Thanks How in the hell did your car drop 4" from cutting 1 coil? Sounds pretty crazy
-Rob

-Rob
RIP '94 Amber Fire Pearl Metallic Thunderbird on Bullitts [email protected]
96 Sport '02 Explorer PI with ported heads, 90MM LMAF, DirtyDog Marauder TC, Lasota tune, Jmod, Magnaflow mid-mount with X, no cats. Urethane drivers motor mount. HIDs!
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-13-2004, 05:30 PM
 
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heating a spring is not that bad , i lowered my car like that , 2in , and it has been riding fine for a year now , all of the S-10s that i had i lowered them by heating the springs, had one for 3 years and it never had prob.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-13-2004, 06:30 PM
 
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Heating a coil is not only wrong, it's lazy and stupid. It takes the tension out of the spring, which defeats the purpose of having a "spring"
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-13-2004, 08:44 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rob
Shouldn't I cut from the bottom side? Will the car feel bouncier with the tighter bottom side of the spring cut off? I've been searching about this this morning. Thanks How in the hell did your car drop 4" from cutting 1 coil? Sounds pretty crazy
-Rob
The car was already dropped like 2 1/2" before i cut the coil. It's amazing how much more you will drop by just cutting a little bit of the coil off. Also they were cut from the top. I don't think it really makes a difference which side you cut just as long as you do it right. Also heating a spring is a terrible way to lower it farther. If you wanna drop farther and still have a decent ride, cutting a way better.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-14-2004, 10:46 AM
 
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Just remember that cutting coils will change the spring's rate and make it stiffer.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-14-2004, 11:52 AM
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Heating a spring is just wrong is so many ways. Ghetto and hillbilly muffler shops do that crap. Take it from a coil spring engineer. In no way should a torch ever come near a coil spring. I don't care what you read or saw in Herb Adams' book (he is wrong). If you still want to be ghetto, cut them with a cutoff wheel. At least you gain a little bit in spring rate by decreasing the number of active coils for the same wire diameter.

Last edited by Kleckner; 10-14-2004 at 12:05 PM.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-14-2004, 11:55 AM
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when you cut a spring, do you cut the top or the bottom?

-Orlando

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-14-2004, 12:01 PM
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Depends on how it is seated. You shouldnt cut a pigtailed end, but T-Birds are all cylindrical springs, IIRC. I cut 1/3 coil off my Suspension Techniques coils because it sat way too high in the rear. I believe I cut the bottom.

Quote:
Originally posted by Rich95XR7
Heating a coil is not only wrong, it's lazy and stupid. It takes the tension out of the spring, which defeats the purpose of having a "spring"
Not necessarily "tension". You are essentially annealing the spring by applying a torch to it. You lose a couple of things:

Loss in hardness - Your springs were either cold-wound with pre-hardened and tempered wire, or hot-wound and oil quenched, then tempered to achieve a very specific hardness (usually Rc of 50 or so). This loss in hardness causes subsequent loss in durability. Basically, your springs will wear out and fracture sooner.

Loss in load at curb height - obviously creates a lower car. But you lose any "set" that was put into the spring when it was manufactured. Over time, your springs will probably just sag even more.

Additionally, because you lose all that load, and keep the same rate and wire diameter, your car will see full jounce in the suspension more often, thus fatiguing the springs faster because of the increased jounce stress. You are also being harder on your other suspension components by increasing the occurence of full jounce events. ie, the car bottoms out more.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-14-2004, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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I could've sworn that the front springs were flat on one end and "pigtailed" on the other. Am I just crazy? I wanna go in there with a game plan so I can get it done as soon as possible. Too bad I'm gonna have to get ANOTHER alignment though Do I need to replace the rear end links? I already have a problem with the Right rear endlink wearing out like crazy. I think thats because that's where the rear passenger sits.
-Rob

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-14-2004, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kleckner
Herb Adams' book (he is wrong).
Now there is a topic....lol. That isn't the only thing that he is wrong about.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-14-2004, 01:51 PM
 
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Make sure when you have your springs put on and the car alined have them check your struts if they are stock. When I got mine put on I had to replace them.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-14-2004, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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I put on SC springs and monroe sensatracs last summer so I should be good on that.
-Rob

-Rob
RIP '94 Amber Fire Pearl Metallic Thunderbird on Bullitts [email protected]
96 Sport '02 Explorer PI with ported heads, 90MM LMAF, DirtyDog Marauder TC, Lasota tune, Jmod, Magnaflow mid-mount with X, no cats. Urethane drivers motor mount. HIDs!
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