Still shaking after COMPLETE front end rebuild - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-17-2004, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Still shaking after COMPLETE front end rebuild

I've had a vibration problem for a while. Have had my tires balanced and aligned a few times and still no fix. My passenger side tire had always worn on the inside excessively compared to the drivers side. I decided to just go and replace the whole front end because it was getting a little loose.

So over the past 3 weeks I just replaced my whole front end, upper, lower ball joints and arms, steering rack, high and low pressure lines, strut rod bushings, outer tie rod and front disks. Know what still vibrating. It's vibrating less because there isn't any play in the bushings or rack but it's still doing it when I hit 65. Also the wheel bearings are 2 months old so it's not that either. Pretty much everything is new down to the mount bushings for the rack. I'm 99% sure it's not the tires because it does it with all 3 sets of rims that I have and they have all been balanced. I don't know what the hell it could be?? And it's definitely from the front end, the steering wheel starts to shake at 65.


It's much better because I took all the looseness out of the front end but the source is still there and it's driving me nuts. ANY IDEAS?

95 LSC- Mods: 2.5 dual exhaust, 3.73s, 17x9 cobra R Rims, SCT dyno tune, MM driveshaft, 249 rwhp/ 268 ft lb tq
97 Base- Mods: Forged motor, Eaton m112, 2.76 pully, too many mods to list..........
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post #2 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-17-2004, 12:06 PM
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how about the power steering?


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post #3 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-17-2004, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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completely new rack and powersteering lines. MY old rack had some play in it the new one has none at all. The steering feels like brand new it's great, but just something vibrates at about 65. less then before but it's still very noticiable. Vibrations cause so many other problems over time, I want to fix this.

95 LSC- Mods: 2.5 dual exhaust, 3.73s, 17x9 cobra R Rims, SCT dyno tune, MM driveshaft, 249 rwhp/ 268 ft lb tq
97 Base- Mods: Forged motor, Eaton m112, 2.76 pully, too many mods to list..........
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post #4 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-17-2004, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 95BLKLSC
I'm 99% sure it's not the tires because it does it with all 3 sets of rims that I have and they have all been balanced.
Just to hit all the basics.
Do you have three sets of tires for the three sets of rims?
Most tires have a mark, or dot, to align with the valve stem. Are your tires like this?
Have you aligned the valve stems, on the front wheels, to the painted lug?
Have you torqued the lug nuts?
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post #5 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-17-2004, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Yea, 3 tires for 3 sets of rims. I know for sure the latest tires dot was aligned with the valvestem, not sure on the others. I don't have a painted ug anymore since I replaced the hubs. And I torque the lugs to 100 ftlbs everytime. I wish it was somethign simple........well maby it is and it's so simple I can't find it.

95 LSC- Mods: 2.5 dual exhaust, 3.73s, 17x9 cobra R Rims, SCT dyno tune, MM driveshaft, 249 rwhp/ 268 ft lb tq
97 Base- Mods: Forged motor, Eaton m112, 2.76 pully, too many mods to list..........
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post #6 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-17-2004, 02:09 PM
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still could be the tires though, broken belt or a flat spot. happened on my cougar, i replaced the whole front end, still shook. replaced the tires, no more shake.
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post #8 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-17-2004, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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The current yokohama es100 tires have about 5k miles on them and are 4 months old. I'm going to look into it but I doubt it's the problem. Like I said I have three sets of rims and tires and nothing changes when I swap them out..........Thanks for input. I'm still looking into the tire/rim thing because it's the only thing that I think is left. But my rims and tires are new too so it shouldn't be a problem.

95 LSC- Mods: 2.5 dual exhaust, 3.73s, 17x9 cobra R Rims, SCT dyno tune, MM driveshaft, 249 rwhp/ 268 ft lb tq
97 Base- Mods: Forged motor, Eaton m112, 2.76 pully, too many mods to list..........
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Last edited by 95BLKLSC; 10-17-2004 at 02:41 PM.
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post #9 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-17-2004, 03:43 PM
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Save gas. Dont go over 64.

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post #10 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-17-2004, 04:40 PM
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I know it's a long shot, but any chance there's a bent rim in all three sets of wheels?

Last edited by Rich95XR7; 12-26-2004 at 07:12 PM.
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post #11 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-17-2004, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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it's a chance, I doubt it but I am going to look in to it. That's the only cause I can see. It seems to be the only thing left in the equation. Although I don't think it's the case.

95 LSC- Mods: 2.5 dual exhaust, 3.73s, 17x9 cobra R Rims, SCT dyno tune, MM driveshaft, 249 rwhp/ 268 ft lb tq
97 Base- Mods: Forged motor, Eaton m112, 2.76 pully, too many mods to list..........
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post #12 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-17-2004, 04:45 PM
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any chance the person who is balancing them is a meathead?
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post #13 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-17-2004, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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there's a VERY good chance of that. I know our cars are very sensitive to balancing on the wheels and any driveline componant. So I'm going to find a place with a hunter machine locally. I know of one but he charges 75 a tire!!! I think that's a bit excessive.


Any one in southeast MA know a good trustworthy shop for a GOOD balance and alignment. Then possibly a diagnosis of my vib if a good balance dosen't fix it??? I've found a lot of places I won't bring my car to............

95 LSC- Mods: 2.5 dual exhaust, 3.73s, 17x9 cobra R Rims, SCT dyno tune, MM driveshaft, 249 rwhp/ 268 ft lb tq
97 Base- Mods: Forged motor, Eaton m112, 2.76 pully, too many mods to list..........
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Last edited by 95BLKLSC; 10-17-2004 at 05:01 PM.
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post #14 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-17-2004, 06:05 PM
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Are you using a locking lug nut on the wheels?

If so, remove them, and replace with a standard one.

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post #15 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-17-2004, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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I am using locking lugs, I'll try that, the only problem is I don't have anymore lugs.............I'll double up on lockers on the back just to test it out I guess.


Also I wasn't using locking lugs on my stock wheels and it vibrated.............I'll try that out tomorrow. I'm going ot get it aligned and the wheels rebalanced, we'll see what happens.

95 LSC- Mods: 2.5 dual exhaust, 3.73s, 17x9 cobra R Rims, SCT dyno tune, MM driveshaft, 249 rwhp/ 268 ft lb tq
97 Base- Mods: Forged motor, Eaton m112, 2.76 pully, too many mods to list..........
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post #16 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-18-2004, 06:31 AM
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I realize it's a stretch, but the manufacturer of the locking lug nuts has changed the design of some of their locking lug nuts, so that the weight is close to that of a stock lug nut. I believe I read about this on a Mustang web-site. (not sure)

However, it is worth a shot. I took my original locking lug nuts off at the same time I lined the valve stem up with the yellow painted stud, and my vibration problem went away.

Also, I have a bunch of the stock lug nuts in almost new condition.

You are welcome to have them, if they fit your Mark.

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post #17 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-18-2004, 09:54 PM
 
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95BLKLSC,

I'm in the same boat with you (or I was until today ). I completely rebuilt my front end chasing a wobble vibration at certain speeds only. I even bought new wheels thinking they might be bent.

Turns out the one and only thing I didn't replace in the front end was the problem - the front half of the strut rod bushings(where they connect to the frame). I replaced the back ones (where they connect to the front lower control arms), but didn't replace the ones where they connect to the frame because they looked OK. Today I replaced the front strut rod bushings and voila! the obnoxious wobble/vibe is gone. In case you did what I did, and skipped them because the looked OK, try replacing them. They were cheap and easy to install (Napa had them in stock for $45 for both sides).

Hope that helps you out!

Frank
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post #18 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-18-2004, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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replaced all the bushings............ wish that was it. I did get an alignment to the aggressive specs on the tccoa page and got the front wheels rebalanced. It's strange I was with the guy when he was doing it and he did a great job, eveything is great. Side to side all the specs are identical yet I have a slight pull to the right and it's not from road crown because I tested it in a flat parking lot too. Also the vib is still there, slightly better but still kickes in at 65. Getting pretty sick of this. I'm going to swap rims with somone locally who's car dosen't vibrate, maby I'll even put my moms taurus wheels on just for a day. I don't think it's the wheels because they are all brand new and so are the tires (well maby 4 months old or so). After I test the rims and tires I'll update you guys.



Note: I watched the tech balance the tires on the high speed machine and he got them dead on to a perfect 0 balance...........so it shoudln't be a balance issue.

95 LSC- Mods: 2.5 dual exhaust, 3.73s, 17x9 cobra R Rims, SCT dyno tune, MM driveshaft, 249 rwhp/ 268 ft lb tq
97 Base- Mods: Forged motor, Eaton m112, 2.76 pully, too many mods to list..........
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post #19 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-18-2004, 10:14 PM
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Was the balancing done on a Hunter GSP9700 Road Force balancer? If not I would try that, it got rid of my annoying vibrations for $12 a wheel.
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post #20 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-18-2004, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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No, but it was done on a high speed balancing machine. The only place I can find locally that has one that isn't a car dealearship wants $75 a tire to balance, I refuse. And all the car dealerships won't use stick on weights which I need because clips on's won't clear my front suspension.

95 LSC- Mods: 2.5 dual exhaust, 3.73s, 17x9 cobra R Rims, SCT dyno tune, MM driveshaft, 249 rwhp/ 268 ft lb tq
97 Base- Mods: Forged motor, Eaton m112, 2.76 pully, too many mods to list..........
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post #21 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-19-2004, 10:54 AM
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have you checked the engine , tranny and rear end mounts? also check the tightness of the subframe to body bolts. possibly a drive shaft imbalance?

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post #22 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-19-2004, 11:21 AM
 
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Did you check the drive shaft?
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post #23 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-19-2004, 01:49 PM
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Just a thought, but if you're convinced it isn't the front end, it could be a bent rear rim or worn out rear axle, not only causing the car to shake, but pushing the car in a direction other than straight. When it's not the obvious, it's the unobvious.
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post #24 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-19-2004, 02:08 PM
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could be a bent subframe too .

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post #25 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-19-2004, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Not an out of balance drive shaft, i have a MMX one, not trannie mounts or rear end bushings all new. Now how do I check for a bent subframe or loose?? I'm going to make sure the wheels and tires arn't the problem this weekend. Hope to get to the botton of this soom

95 LSC- Mods: 2.5 dual exhaust, 3.73s, 17x9 cobra R Rims, SCT dyno tune, MM driveshaft, 249 rwhp/ 268 ft lb tq
97 Base- Mods: Forged motor, Eaton m112, 2.76 pully, too many mods to list..........
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post #26 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-19-2004, 03:30 PM
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the loose subframe , you just need to recheck the tightness of the bolts that hold it to the car to check the bent subframe you need to go to GOOD bodyshp and have them put it on the frame rack and measure it

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post #27 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-19-2004, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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This might sound stupid what what actually consists of the subframe??

95 LSC- Mods: 2.5 dual exhaust, 3.73s, 17x9 cobra R Rims, SCT dyno tune, MM driveshaft, 249 rwhp/ 268 ft lb tq
97 Base- Mods: Forged motor, Eaton m112, 2.76 pully, too many mods to list..........
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post #28 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-19-2004, 05:03 PM
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I had a HORRENDOUS vibration that would start around 55 and get worse with higher speeds, and I COULD not figure it out. I took my dad for a drive, he said yeah...sounds like U joints...so I ordered a pair. I checked mine out and they were good so I passed on the new U joints. My friend found the damn problem....tailhousing of tranny was seeping fluid so we were like hmmm. I was able to turn the screws on it by hand.
I let my friend tighten the dog crap out of them and that was that. Now I just get driveshaft noise when I go over 110.
-Rob

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post #29 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-19-2004, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 95BLKLSC
This might sound stupid what what actually consists of the subframe??
well there is 2 . the front is the part that the engine and lower control arms are bolted to. in the back, the part that the rear end, and control arms are attached to

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post #30 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-19-2004, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 95BLKLSC
And all the car dealerships won't use stick on weights which I need because clips on's won't clear my front suspension.
You just said more than a mouthful...
Are you using a dynamic method of balancing by using weights on BOTH sides of the
wheels? If you're letting them use the "static" method and weights on only one side..then there's your problem.
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