When replacing ball joints... - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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When replacing ball joints...

I will need to replace a few (haven't officially diagnosed it yet) balljoints in my front end. Will the springs need to be compressed and removed for this? I was considering just going ahead with lowering springs if that's the case.

Jason
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 05:11 PM
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welcome to the club! lol Those stupid ball joints have been the bane of my very existence for a couple weeks now, and I just had one of the uppers go bad. GRRR.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 05:24 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drive XR7
I will need to replace a few (haven't officially diagnosed it yet) balljoints in my front end. Will the springs need to be compressed and removed for this? I was considering just going ahead with lowering springs if that's the case.
Nope the upper and lower control arms are sepreate peices from the shock that holds the spring and really any other ball joints like the tie rod end and the stabilizer endlink so you dont need to compress the springs. If you wanna lower it you have to take the whole shock and spring unit out to remove the spring
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 05:41 PM
 
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If you are planning on dropping it a little, now would be a good time to do them. When the lowers and uppers are out, you have plenty of room to get the sping/shock out.

Joe
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 07:07 PM
 
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It's probably easier to replace the whole lower control arm rather than just the ball joint, and for the upper ball joints, you don't have a choice--it's the whole arm or nothing. If you're replacing the upper control arms, you don't even need to remove the tires from the car, let alone the springs. Just jack the car up, zip tie the spindle to the coil spring and remove the upper arm.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 08:13 PM
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Will is absolutely right.

Get the entire control arm from rockauto and don't mess around pressing new joints into an old arm. The new arms have new bushings also, just bolt it on.

Get the car up in the air and check out the suspension before you order anything, if the upper boots are ripped then the uppers are probably bad, any play in any of the balljoints and you need to replace the arm.

If you replace the lower control arms you need to get a wheel alignment after, the uppers you don't need to get an alignment done.

JH
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 08:22 PM
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Have fun getting to the nut and bolt for the upper arms

Jay

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 09:42 PM
 
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I did mine last year and it wasn't really that hard. I replaced the upper control arm (no choice) and pressed in new ball joints in the bottom. I changed the accessible bushings too while I was in there. You can rent the press and pickle forks from the parts stores for free. Don't buy the cheap press from Harbor Freight, it won't work and you'll be there all day trying. Change the link too while you're in there, it's cheap and they make annoying noises when they go bad.

Stee
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-25-2005, 10:37 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordMan77
Have fun getting to the nut and bolt for the upper arms

Jay
An 18mm ratcheting wrench is the only way to do this while still maintaining your sanity.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-25-2005, 12:31 PM
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Toughen up boys, I did it with a 18mm regular open ended wrench.

Its lots of fun you have to turn it like 1/8th of a turn each time.
JH
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-25-2005, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by JustinH
Its lots of fun you have to turn it like 1/8th of a turn each time.
JH

ugh.. memories of that f**king power steering bolt..

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-27-2005, 11:49 AM
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i love my power tools and press. haha to all you suckas that hve to use hand tools! it was easy to replace the lower ball joints if you have access to a ball jiont press or just a regular press.

Buy now, Pay later!
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-27-2005, 01:44 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbirdman93
i love my power tools and press. haha to all you suckas that hve to use hand tools! it was easy to replace the lower ball joints if you have access to a ball jiont press or just a regular press.
Well, I have power tools and a bigger press than I'll ever need (50 tons). Power tools do no good on the upper control arms in the first place. Since an entire lower control arm is a less than $60 and comes with a new balljoint, shock bushing and control arm to frame bushing, and the balljoint by itself is $45, the shock bushings are $12, and I didn't price the other bushing..........

now who's the sucka??????

Plus, for the price difference and ease of installation, it's worth the extra $15. If it a shop job, I'd charge 1 hour for the lower control arm replacement ($60), or 3 hours labor for balljoint only labor. ($180)

Make sense now?
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-27-2005, 03:34 PM
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i guess but i still like to use my press! lol. i payed 26 a side for my ball joints today and already had the lower control arms out so i pressed the old ones out and put the new ones in in about 20 mins. for someone who doesn't have a press, just buy the new lower control arm, like said above it will be so much easier. oh yeh, you're still the sucka just 'cause lol!

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-27-2005, 04:56 PM
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on that note.. anyone want a set of used lowers to install ball joints in? cheap.. pay shipping
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-28-2005, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordMan77
Have fun getting to the nut and bolt for the upper arms

Jay

Yeah, no Sh--, I couldn't even loosen one on the driver's side, sucker wouldn't even budge. Likely have to go to a nut breaker.
post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-03-2005, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ice_nyne
Likely have to go to a nut breaker.
What if the person doesnt have a wife or gf??

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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-04-2005, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinH
Will is absolutely right.

Get the entire control arm from rockauto and don't mess around pressing new joints into an old arm. The new arms have new bushings also, just bolt it on.

Get the car up in the air and check out the suspension before you order anything, if the upper boots are ripped then the uppers are probably bad, any play in any of the balljoints and you need to replace the arm.

If you replace the lower control arms you need to get a wheel alignment after, the uppers you don't need to get an alignment done.

JH
I noticed that Rock Auto has a good price on Moog lower control arms. Moog has a good name but I was wondering if anyone has any experience with the Moog arm vs. the Ford factory replacement. The Moog is about 1/2 the price.
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-04-2005, 03:18 PM
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Moog, Federal Mogul and TRW are all the same company

guess who the OEM builder is for the Ford arm? TRW check your old ones, you'll see the TRW stamp
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-04-2005, 03:19 PM
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buy one from the dealer, you will get the same part with moog/trw stamps on it.
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post #21 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-10-2005, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercutio
An 18mm ratcheting wrench is the only way to do this while still maintaining your sanity.
I did mine about 4 weeks ago. The ratcheting wrench is the way to go but I found that the one with the ratcheting end straight not angled worked the best. There just isn't enought room to get an angled one in there.
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