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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-09-2005, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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Front end shakes

I just replaced on both sides on the front end of my '94 T-bird with the following new parts:

Moog upper & lower control arms with new Dana ball joints,
Ford Sport shocks with new Moog upper spring mounts and new Ford lower shock bolts,
Eibach lowering springs,
Moog camber bolt kit,
Moog strut rod bushings.

I had a local alignment shop align the front & rear. He was not too happy when I picked up the car. I guess when I put the new parts on I messed up everything & it took them a few hours to get everything correct. The car squaled the two blocks to their shop. I asked the alignment shop if they saw anything else that might need replaced & they said no, everything looked "good".

Well, the car now drives straight down the road, handles great compared to what it did before.

Problem: when I apply the brakes the front end has a slight shimmy/shake/vibration. If I let go of the steering wheel the wheel slightly moves back and forth about 1 or 2 degrees. You can also slightly feel the vibration in the wheel.

If I start the car and give it no gas, but allow the wheels to move about a foot down the driveway at a very slow rate & then mash on the brake I can hear a "Click". You can get it to "click" if moving forward or reverse. On the street with the car moving it is very hard to hear.

Well, I took the car back to the alignment shop, they said my "front brake rotors are out of true & need to be turned".

Does this sound right?

I want to replace the braking system with larger rotors & 2 piston calipers. I need to buy new wheels & tires so that they will clear the larger rotors & do not have the money right now.

Could the vibration be coming from the steering rack or tie rods?

I checked the sway bar & it looks good. I can not move it any direction by hand. The sway bar end links are also not movable. The steering rack end link on the left I can slightly rotate and with two hands I can get it to move slightly if I apply a lot of force.

Could the steer rack end links need replaced?

Could the vibration that only happens when I brake be something else?

I had a Taurus that started having a simular problem. I had to replace the "sub-frame" bushing that held the engine cradle/front end to the frame.

The Taurus was a front wheel drive so maybe my T-bird does not have "sub-frame" bushings or does it?

If so, where are they because I can not seem to be able to find them to check them?

Any suggestions?

Doug

Last edited by doug; 04-09-2005 at 12:22 PM.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-09-2005, 08:56 AM
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If it only does it when you apply the brakes, then it is definately the brakes. If it was anything else it would do it all the time.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-09-2005, 09:27 AM
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Have you checked your strut rod bushings? If those are bad they will allow movement of the LCA or the rod itself and that could be your sound.

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-09-2005, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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I replaced the strut rod bushing with blue Moog units. I checked to see if maybe the alignment shop forgot to tighten the nuts on the strut rod. I can not seem to get them to tighten any more so I don't think they are loose.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-09-2005, 12:05 PM
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he already change out the strut rod bushing. make sure the strut rod bushing are torque to spec and NO POWER STEERING FLUID ON THE MOOG'S STRUT ROD BUSHINGS!!!

other than that look at the brakes.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-09-2005, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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What does "out of true" rotors look like or is there such a thing? Also would I not feel the vibration on the brake pedal when my foot is on it. The vibration is coming from the front end & you can mostly feel it in the steering wheel.

I have the front end off the ground & can spin both front wheels fairly easily. The calipers are not stuck and there are no large cuts or grooves in the rotors. They have a lot of very fine rings the you can feel & see on both sides of the rotors. The rotors have I believe looks like normal wear to me.

Guess I will need take one of the rotors off & have a brake shop turn it. The last time I worked on the front brakes I busted up both of my hands trying to get the bolts off that hold the caliper to the spindle. Seems like you need superman strength to get the caliper bolts to break free.

Last edited by doug; 04-09-2005 at 12:23 PM.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-09-2005, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug
What does "out of true" rotors look like or is there such a thing?
Out of true rotor = warped rotor.

*Image removed*
*Do not want to take-up TCCoA's precious Bandwidth *


Quote:
Also would I not feel the vibration on the brake pedal when my foot is on it. The vibration is coming from the front end & you can mostly feel it in the steering wheel.
Not nearly as much as through the steering wheel.
The brake pedal is damped by the hydraulic sysyem. The steering wheel is connected to the front wheels via the hard suspension components.


Quote:
The rotors have I believe looks like normal wear to me.
You can not go by "looks", for the most part, when it comes to the brakes.


Last edited by JR Tigerstar; 04-03-2006 at 12:16 PM. Reason: Image taking up TCCoA's precious Bandwidth
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-10-2005, 04:23 PM
 
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Aboslutley warped rotors....
They aren't very expensive just replace them. And after you do replace them don't run it up to 50 and slam on the brakes to "check em out" you need to break them in ..

Last edited by TINKNOCKER105; 04-10-2005 at 04:30 PM.
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