Strut Rod Bushing Replacement - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-25-2005, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Strut Rod Bushing Replacement

Is there an easy way to replace these bushings without removing the lower ball joint @ the spindle?

i.e. remove the sway bar / spindle endlink
remove 3 upper shock bolts


would; could this give me enough room to swing the control arm back to get the strut rod out?


I'm not replacing the lower control arm's / ball joints and I don't want to damage them trying to seperate it from the spindle.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-25-2005, 04:31 PM
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I disconnected the lower shock bolt and the inner bolt on the lower arm (camber adjusting bolt) to swing it out of the way. Just mark the camber bolt and put it back in the right place when you're done.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-25-2005, 05:42 PM
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Here's how did mine:

In order to get the rear bushings out, you have to remove the nut at the back end of the tension strut. You also have to take the inner nut at the opposite end of the strut, and turn it all the way in towards the rear.
Keep track of the original postion of the two nuts, as it can throw your alignment off they are not put back to the same position. The shop manual also recommends removing the lower shock bolt, but mine wouldn't come out. Once you have the two nuts out of the way, you have to pry between the tension strut and lower control arm, until the strut rod comes out. Then clean the hole in the lower control arm, and make sure that it is clean from leftover bushing material (rubber & metal). I then lubricated the bushing contact area with white lithium grease.
Once you swap the bushings out, just reverse the procedures to put things back together. Make sure you put the two nuts back in the same exact place. I ended up taking my car to Midas and for $20, they loosened the nuts for me, as I couldn't get them to budge. They used a 3ft. breaker bar. Also, the tension strut has a slight v-shape to it. AT the center of the tension strut, there is a flat area for wrenches, to hold the strut while loosening and tightening the nuts. Do not put the wrench at the exact center of this machined area, instead, favor the side that you are working on( this is per the Shop manual).

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-25-2005, 05:47 PM
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cheap *** way, doubt its good for the suspension but, take off the wheel and nut on back end of strut rod, attatch come-a-long to lift or something solid, and lowercontroll arm, start cranking away, and within a few pulls it will be back far enough to replace the rear bushings so far i have done 3 of them this way. works great, but its kinda odd pulling back the shock/spring/spindle etc at that bizarre of an angle but it works
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-25-2005, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Well I guess I will try to remove the inner control arm bolt and the shock mount bolt (if it will come out; I've had bad experiences with these) and see how that goes.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-25-2005, 09:23 PM
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What I posted above is from the Ford Shop manual.

You do not have to remove the inner bolt of the lower control arm.

Also, I could not get the shock bolt out, so I left it in place.

The Shop manual says to pry the strut rod from the lower control arm, and that's what I did. It takes a bit of force to pry the last 1/4".

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1995 T-Bird LX 4.6 retired at 247,888 miles
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-25-2005, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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cool, I'll try the Shop Manual method; loosen it and pry it out.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-27-2005, 12:10 AM
 
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Post pics of work please (if you have them). I was curious which bushing that is exactly isn't there one on the control arm and another on the frame.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-27-2005, 02:29 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry lightevergreenfrost I didn't get a chance to take any pictures. I just finished up about an hour ago; here's how I did it: Removed both outer nut's, Marked and removed inner control arm bolt, removed top 3 shock mounting nut's from shock tower, the lower control arm then just swung right out of the way.

Very easy to do, but the nut's where a little difficult to get off. Took about 3 1/2 hrs. but I also had to grind the old inserts/tubes off the strut rod!
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