Here's how did mine:
In order to get the rear bushings out, you have to remove the nut at the back end of the tension strut. You also have to take the inner nut at the opposite end of the strut, and turn it all the way in towards the rear.
Keep track of the original postion of the two nuts, as it can throw your alignment off they are not put back to the same position. The shop manual also recommends removing the lower shock bolt, but mine wouldn't come out. Once you have the two nuts out of the way, you have to pry between the tension strut and lower control arm, until the strut rod comes out. Then clean the hole in the lower control arm, and make sure that it is clean from leftover bushing material (rubber & metal). I then lubricated the bushing contact area with white lithium grease.
Once you swap the bushings out, just reverse the procedures to put things back together. Make sure you put the two nuts back in the same exact place. I ended up taking my car to Midas and for $20, they loosened the nuts for me, as I couldn't get them to budge. They used a 3ft. breaker bar. Also, the tension strut has a slight v-shape to it. AT the center of the tension strut, there is a flat area for wrenches, to hold the strut while loosening and tightening the nuts. Do not put the wrench at the exact center of this machined area, instead, favor the side that you are working on( this is per the Shop manual).
Steve - TCCoA member
2003 Crown Vic LX Sport
1995 T-Bird LX 4.6 retired at 247,888 miles
Thanks for the ride !