SN95 Mustang = 1994 - 2004
SN95 (1994-2004) Lower Control Arms Facts:
1) Mount to the M7/T-bird OEM K-member,
2) Struts will work in the M7/T-bird OEM tower mounts
3) Improve steering/suspension geometry
4) Hold brake upgrades
5) SN95 Lower control arms are the same exact length as the M7/T-bird/Cougar
1) Have improved geometry over the Fox spindles and SVO
2) 1994-95 have curved tie rod arm that has proven to be the best for FOX upgrades
3) 1996+ have straight tie rod arms that seem to be placed in the EXACT spot where the tie rod should be mounted – thus: Tie rod on bottom, too much bumpsteer. Tie rod
on top – impact 11” rotor. You might get away with it on 13” Cobra rotors.
4) 1996+ are move the wheel out even further by 8mm, this would be worse than an already increasing problem.
You might need:
1) Bumpsteer kit.
You will need:
1) 94-98 brake lines with banjo bolts to mount SN95 Calipers
2) Mustang struts due to the shock body differences (Boosted23L)
3) Wheels that fit the new rotor/brake combo (Mustang)
4) SN95 Inner tie rod do to the legth you will need for the spindles (Boosted23L)
5) SN95 Outer tie rods do to the inners being metric thread (Boosted23L)
Spindle / COntrol Arm options: Since the SN95 SPindle does not fit the SVO/M7 Balljoint:
1) Machine out the 94-95 spindle to fit the larger SVO/M7 balljoint (No need for T-birds)
2) machine/make spacers to fit the smaller SN95 balljoint into the SVO/M7 balljoint hole in (No need for T-birds)
the OEM control arm
3) Mount SN95/T-bird Front control arms on the car - use springs or fabricate ways to make airride work with this setup (M7 only)
Fabrication & Hypothesized problems:
1) SN95 Spindles push the wheel out further than FOX/SVO spindles and MAY cause SOME wheels to not fit under the fender - this would look horrid unless you spaced the rear wheels out to match - which is not a good idea. Emphasize the MAY and SOME. (qestion raised above)
2) BYE BYE to ABS forever. This may still be an option, but for simple upgrades it
doesn’t warrant the work. (SoutherMD on FvC HAS invented a combination that will keep the factory ABS (5/01/05)
3) May have to fabricate a new sway bar mount on the SN95 lowers
1) SoutherMDLSC developed a CHEAP way to mount SN95 Ball joints into the factory lower control arms. This would allow you to mount the SN95+ Spindles to the factory lower control arms and not have to fabricate anything to make the SN95+ lower control arms work for air ride. Obviously if you had springs, the complete SN95 suspension swap would make perfect sense. At the time this was written, Sal Paradise and I are working on machined spacers to make this swap a perfect fit.
2) Cobra kits will upgrade your brakes to as large as you can go (13"), but must run aftermarket or Mustang wheels.
3) You can upgrade to any SN95 rotor/caliper combo - but you must use the caliper DESIGN & YEAR that is made for that DESIGN & YEAR rotor you are using. (EX – you can not use 1994 60mm calipers with 1998 rotors)
4) 1999+ V6 and GT front calipers (duel 40mm) and Cobra calipers (?mm) are the
only FORD options you have to upgrade your calipers BETTER than what you have
now (M7 73mm) - Fox calipers will not fit SN95 Spindles.
5) SN95 V6 and GT both have EXACT same front suspension with exception of the strut (GT-V8 has heavier valving)....
6) You can run, and mount FOX/SN95 front struts, but they are NOT valve for such a heavy car
7) Running Steeda X2 or Ford FMS-3050-S ball joints MAY force the MARKVII/T-bird lower control arm into contacting the rotor. This is a proven fact on FOX mustangs that have 11" rotors - you must run 13" rotors (Cobra) for this too work on FOX control arms.
As of yet (that I know of) the complete swap has not been done that retains air ride.
Paul from SVPU