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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2005, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Angry Is it me or does this sound high?

Ok I took my 93 Thunderbird LX 5.0 to Jensen/ Goodyear Tire today to get a figure on how much its going to cost to replace the following parts 2 Upper Control Arms ,, Strut Rod Bushings, Alignment, Then to Tighten the Rack. Grand total they want is $884.62 before tax..

Heres what they want to do each job with parts and labor.

2 Upper Control Arms for parts $ 147.65 Each and I need two.. Labor to put those on $ 300.00 .. WOW!!! $ 595.30 with Parts and Labor for that.


Strut Rod Bushings $94.32 for parts Labor for that is at $97.50 Grand total $191.82

Tighten Rack Labor at $ 37.50

Alignment at $60.00

Grand total is

$ 884.62 before tax(

I told the shop to forget that I will not give them close to a grand.

What I want to do is try to replace the Upper Control Arms myself, because 300 in labor that is just robbery.
Im going to college right now to be an Auto Mechanic so I have some knowledge of working on cars , I like working on engines , I just hate suspension and transmission work, but I'm good with working on cars. I have a wrenches and sockets and stuff. I just wanted to get some replys about what you think?
Is the job really bad?
You guys think a can do it myself without power tools ? Without an impact wrench?

Oh and dont worry guys the car is parked for now and im driving my 83 tbird to get around . Im not going to risk my life trying to drive it.

Thanks guys

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2005, 07:16 PM
 
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You can get new UCAs for around 75 each from a parts store and replace them yourself in around an hour IF you get an 18mm ratcheting wrench.

Tighten the rack? You mean as in tighten the two bolts that hold it in place?

Strut rod bushings...the parts price is obscene, but for the work involved I might pay for the labor especially if you don't have a good tool selection.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2005, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercutio
You can get new UCAs for around 75 each from a parts store and replace them yourself in around an hour IF you get an 18mm ratcheting wrench.

Tighten the rack? You mean as in tighten the two bolts that hold it in place?

Strut rod bushings...the parts price is obscene, but for the work involved I might pay for the labor especially if you don't have a good tool selection.

They said the rack was real loose and it needs to be tightend. I think I will just end up doing the Upper Control Arms myself. I was looking at it some more tonight and I notice the rear bolt on the drivers side is real close to the brake booster. I shouldnt need to remove the brake booster right? Then on the passengers side I see one of the bolts is really close to the Accumulator wiill the 18mm racheting wrench hit back there? I just hope those bolts arent stuck on tight like my rear shock bolts. That sucked.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2005, 09:15 PM
 
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If the rack is loose, just tighten it--or is there something I'm missing? Just get the 18mm ratcheting wrench and you won't have to worry about anything else.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2005, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordThunderbird
Heres what they want to do each job with parts and labor.

2 Upper Control Arms for parts $ 147.65 Each and I need two.. Labor to put those on $ 300.00 .. WOW!!! $ 595.30 with Parts and Labor for that.
Strut Rod Bushings $94.32 for parts Labor for that is at $97.50 Grand total $191.82
I told the shop to forget that I will not give them close to a grand.
What I want to do is try to replace the Upper Control Arms myself, because 300 in labor that is just robbery.
Im going to college right now to be an Auto Mechanic so I have some knowledge of working on cars , I like working on engines , I just hate suspension and transmission work, but I'm good with working on cars. I have a wrenches and sockets and stuff. I just wanted to get some replys about what you think?
Is the job really bad?
You guys think a can do it myself without power tools ? Without an impact wrench?
Oh and dont worry guys the car is parked for now and im driving my 83 tbird to get around . Im not going to risk my life trying to drive it.

Thanks guys
You say the $300 for labor is a rip off, but I got new upper control arms from Ford for $60 each. That price for the UCA's is criminal. The labor is high, granted, but they can be a pain to get out if you can't figure out how to get to the nuts/bolts. The 18mm Gearwrench was a life saver, but I still needed a crows foot wrench to break the passenger side rear nut loose.

I think the strut rod bushings are the hardest thing to do suspension wise on our cars. Even those experienced in our suspensions leave that job to the pro's.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2005, 11:04 PM
 
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The bushing cost maybe $25 each for TRW at my parts store. The labor sounds right though. I would buy the parts myself and take it to them if you don't want to do it yourself.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-04-2005, 09:41 AM
 
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Yeah, but many shops won't let you do that, so ask first.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-04-2005, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Ok guys help!!!!!!!

I got the parts the upper control arms.

However the I got the bolt off that holds the upper control arm balljoint to the lower arm however the balljoint for the upper is stuck to the lower control arm or the spindle arm ? I think thats what its called .. I have tryed w d 40 and tryed hammering it out for over 1 hour with a hammer no luck moving it. I dont know how to get it lose now ive tryed prying it with a tire iron and bent the tip on that.

What do I do anyone have any idea's how to get this thing off? HELP!

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-04-2005, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordThunderbird
Ok guys help!!!!!!!

I got the parts the upper control arms.

However the I got the bolt off that holds the upper control arm balljoint to the lower arm however the balljoint for the upper is stuck to the lower control arm or the spindle arm ? I think thats what its called .. I have tryed w d 40 and tryed hammering it out for over 1 hour with a hammer no luck moving it. I dont know how to get it lose now ive tryed prying it with a tire iron and bent the tip on that.

What do I do anyone have any idea's how to get this thing off? HELP!
Use a torch and heat the area up that's stuck. Also - and this is not being sarcastic - use a bigger hammer. I've got an 8 lb mini sledge that has paid for itself many times over.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-04-2005, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordThunderbird
Ok guys help!!!!!!!

I got the parts the upper control arms.

However the I got the bolt off that holds the upper control arm balljoint to the lower arm however the balljoint for the upper is stuck to the lower control arm or the spindle arm ? I think thats what its called .. I have tryed w d 40 and tryed hammering it out for over 1 hour with a hammer no luck moving it. I dont know how to get it lose now ive tryed prying it with a tire iron and bent the tip on that.

What do I do anyone have any idea's how to get this thing off? HELP!
yeah dude, get a bigger hammer, i used a mini sledge to get mine out, just took about three good swings and it basicly flew out.....

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-04-2005, 11:53 PM
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I spread them a little with a railroad spike and they pop right out.

Rockauto is the cheapest place I have found to get those parts. All of those prices about 2-3 times what you will actually pay. The strut rod bushings are about $25 for the set.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-05-2005, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Embalmer
Use a torch and heat the area up that's stuck. Also - and this is not being sarcastic - use a bigger hammer. I've got an 8 lb mini sledge that has paid for itself many times over.

Well I went and got a 8lb mini sledge hammer that didnt get it off even after pounding on it for over 1 hour. I went out and bought a balljoint puller pushed it between the balljoint and arm pounded on that for over a good hour and jumped on the bar and I weigh 145 lbs still didnt come off.. At the point the boot is all torn up and im mad. Only thing I can think of to do is borrow a blow torch from my friend at work if that doesnt get it off I dont know what to do..

This just really sucks, Has anyone else had this much trouble?? This is nuts shouldnt be that hard to get this thing off. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-05-2005, 05:21 PM
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the ball joint will not separate with the pinch bolt still in there, sorry, if you got a propane torch you can try to heat up the metal around the pinch bolt and then pound it out with the mini sledge, good luck bro, i know that can be a pita.

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-06-2005, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Well guys I still cant get the bolt off .. I really want to get my car going ASAP. I called a shop that my uncle takes his cars to, They want $170 to do both of them + tax for labor which doesnt sound bad to me. They are going to let me supply the parts. What do you guys think?? Is this a good deal on labor considering how how the passenger side bolts are to get to?

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1993 Ford Thunderbird LX 5.0 H.O V-8
Dual Exhaust 2 flowmaster 40 series mufflers
Air Silencer and resonator Removed..

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Weekend Driver 351 Project!
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-10-2005, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Car is all fixed guys..

They said they had to use a Air Hammer they were on so bad. They charged me 196 with tax and the parts cost me 150 so I think I got a ok deal...

Thanks

2000 Saturn Sw2
Daily Driver
MPG 45-50

1993 Ford Thunderbird LX 5.0 H.O V-8
Dual Exhaust 2 flowmaster 40 series mufflers
Air Silencer and resonator Removed..

1983 Ford Thunderbird 3.8 L
Weekend Driver 351 Project!
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